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lucky

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    Minnesota

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  1. Sorry I dint take a Photo to put up here but basically they took the droop out of the seat and filled it with foam. Just what I wanted and it looks great. The problem (for me) was I asked for soft foam and I got it. way too soft. Im basically sitting on the seat pan so off it goes back for some stiffer foam.
  2. If you seen my other topic on the engine mods you know I've been tied up just trying to get the engine running properly. As for the suspension so far I have the KX100 forks with the .42 springs from Cannon Racecraft. This was a huge performance gain. Much more plush. I still haven't done anything to the rear suspension as the bike seems pretty level but its not plush in the rear like the front. Thinking I will need to do something to increase rear wheel travel and heavier spring to keep it up in the plusher part of the travel. I will then add some taller bars like others have done here. Oh, and I purchased some stock steel pegs and ground the mounts off and repositioned them lowering the pegs about 3/4 of an inch. This was pretty easy to do. I didn't know how much lower I could get the aftermarket pegs so just lowered stock ones. Pegs are still quite high compared to the bottom of the engine so no worries there. I also had the seat foam modified by Seat Concepts. Asked them to basically level the foam from front to back and take out the middle droop. Seat looked great when I got it back but I made a mistake in asking for the soft foam. It is really soft and I basically sit on the seat pan. I will have to send it out to have it redone again.
  3. Been a while since I gave an update but wanted to see how a few things shook out before posting. I noted above the rockers supplied by SX Parts were too wide to fit in their head. Machined them down to make them fit. After this I got it all together it fired right up. It sounded good so took out for a test ride and it had a miss in the mid RPM. Seemed rich so I leaned and leaned till I had the 108 main, 32 pilot and needle all the way down. It felt lean but the mid rpm miss was not budging. I decided to try richer and every jetting combination I could think of. Through all this I could see the o rings in the Chinese carb were getting swollen likely due to ethanol in the fuel. Possibly I had an air leak on the carb top or around the bowl. I could never get this carb to idle down either so chalked it up to poor Chinese manufacturing. Contacted SX Parts and said Chinese carb is not liking the ethanol fuel we have here and ordered a Keihin. I had originally asked for the Keihin but Chinese carb came in the kit. Took 10 days to get the carb. Put it all together and it sounded good so off for a test ride. Damn! Still has the mid range miss but at least it idles down properly now. At this point Im thinking the cam. I double check the timing and am tempted to retard cam timing but instead decide to reinstall the stock cam. All through this I have asked SX parts for input but didn't get much back. Makes me wonder who developed theses parts and how tested they really are. With the stock cam in the SX ported head the engine runs but not good and wont idle at all. WTH! I do a compression test and it is low. Now wondering what I could have done. I decide to recheck valve clearances and notice the rockers are slightly contacting the spring caps. WTH. Are the valves recessed further up in the ported head allowing the stems to sit higher in the head?? I decide to install the stock rockers with the stock cam. Same problem. Contact SX parts and they have no idea. At this point I decide to put the stock head and valves and cam back on. It starts right up and sounds good. Now for the test ride. A bit nervous to see what happens but it runs great! The midrange miss is gone finally. I can tell it doesn't have the high RPM power of the ported head and big cam but it runs good and has strong low rpm power. Way more than stock. I contact SX and report my findings. The response is that it cant be their head but possibly a problem w their cam. I tell them the stock cam does not work in their head and they say is has to and I must be doing something incorrect. I say give me ideas and I will try it. At this point I decide the measure the valve stem height above the guides compared to the stock head and valves. Bingo. Found the problem. Valves do in fact sit higher in the head and I assume incorrectly that the ported head valve seats are ground lower making the valve stems sit too high up in the head. I am about to report this to SX when I decide to measure the actual valve length. Here's the real problem. The valves from SX are longer than stock and do not allow the rockers adequate adjustment range to clear the valve spring caps. I take photos of the stock valves and the valves provided by SX in the caliper showing they are longer than stock. So far have not heard back. Its been an adventure!
  4. Got the seat back yesterday. Took them longer than they said to get it done and back to me but it looks nice. I will try to get a photo up soon. The low spot is definitely filled in.
  5. You will have to send your seat base down to them. I sent a new seat to them so I can still have my stock seat also. I know expensive but what do you do. Mark
  6. Partway through the SXparts install. Have had a few challenges. They included two pistons in the kit for some reason. When I tried to install the rings on the first piston the middle ring would not fit in the groove. I tried the second piston and it fit fine. Hmm. When installing the rocker arms they would not fit in the head. I tried everything and eventually ended up having to narrow them up slightly to get them to fit. The ported intake runner was substantially larger than the stock intake manifold so I did a little porting of my own to make it match. The big one so far was finding out the cam sprocket bolt is left hand threads. My dealer would not believe me. I had them look it up and have new one coming. The stock cam currently has the bolt twisted off inside it. Yes my own fault for not knowing. I don't want to ruin the cam so will take it to my machine shop and have them extract it. Just read mtgraves post above and now am wondering if I lost my cam sprocket locating pin also. I don't remember seeing it. Mark
  7. I have the heaviest shock and fork springs available for the KX100 coming from Cannon racecraft. Should be here tomorrow. After installing KX100 forks on the 140G the I measured the clearance under the front fender and came up with 9.8 inches. My measurement of the KX100 forks show they have 10.8 inches of travel. I am hoping with a slight modification of the steering stem nut and the new triple clamps I have coming I can lower the forks enough to avoid contact with the front fender at full compression. I haven't really started to work on the rear yet but planning to use the KX100 shock and with a new bottom shock mount and Wandells linkage trick I hope I can get it level with the front! This bike should have some serious ground clearance! with the lowered pegs, (stock are way higher than the bottom of the engine) the Motoseat modified seat and a new handlebar and mounts hopefully I can make it all come together. I`m 5 ft 10" so should be decent fit. Mark
  8. I don't ride like I did 15 years ago and will just use it to trail ride around with my son. Dealer didn't have one to sit on and said it was an adult size bike. It will be fun to make it into something more. Mark
  9. Should have the engine kit from SXparts tomorrow! Ported head, cam, big bore cylinder, 11:1 piston, 28mm keihin and exhaust.
  10. OK guys. I picked up a complete KX100 and will try to fit the forks tomorrow. Figured by the time I purchased forks and all the needed parts separate I would be better off just buying the whole bike so I could resell it if/when I put everything back to stock. I expect to need stiffer fork springs. Looks like race tech and cannon racing have stiffer fork springs for the 100. I plan to get the stiffest ones available as the 140 is quite a bit heavier. Any input from others who have changed fork springs? Not sure where this will leave the balance of the bike. I'm sure the back to be way low so I will try the link flip trick and see what it does. Mark
  11. Just sent my KLX140G seat to Motoseats in California to get 1.5 inches added. The will build whatever you want for any KLX. Mark
  12. Kawasaki lists the fork travel of the KX85/100 forks as 10.8 in. The 140L is listed at 7.1 and the 140G at 7.5 that's a three plus inch difference! For you who have done the KX fork conversion I assume you slid the forks up in the triple clamps and together with the rear link change was enough to level the bike? Have you changed fork springs to match the heavier bike? I have not come up with anything else so now looking for some KX85/100 forks. Any ideas where I might find and what approx. price did you guys have to pay for a set? Mark
  13. Just purchased a Kawasaki 110L for my son and got a 140G for myself. I used to be an A class endure rider 10 years ago and thought the 140G would be fine but its lacking. I have an engine kit coming but need to do something about the suspension. Would like to install some better forks and shock. Don't see anyone who has done this. Any ideas of who or where I might go for some assistance with this?? Located in MN. Mark
  14. I just ordered a ported head, high lift cam, big bore cylinder, 11:1 piston, 28mm Keihin carb and a new exhaust with spark arrestor for SXparts parts for my 140G. Should have it next week! Now I need to figure out how to get some bigger better forks and rear suspension for this thing!!
  15. There is a guy on adv rider who has done a lot of mods to his 140G and had his seat redone my motoseats.com in California. I purchased a new seat and plan to send it out to them next week to add an inch or inch and a half to the foam.
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