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dirtbikeerdad

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About dirtbikeerdad

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    Racing, Hare Scramble, Endure Live Music
  1. dirtbikeerdad

    Gas Gas 300

    Halls-cycles.com This is the best dealer there is for Gas Gas or Husqvarna. Always keep m on my bike and don't empty your wallet. They are in Springfeild, IL but, can ship anywhere. The also do awesome suspension work or for that matter any other work you need. This shop has more parts in stock for more yersof bis that I have ever seen. No two weeks order like all the yamaha and honda shops. Give them a try.
  2. dirtbikeerdad

    2013 TXC 310R - Widespread Model Issues?

    To 95Jersey did you ever come to a conclusion of what was causing? To All, I have been a loyal and very pleased husqvarna and GasGas racer/rider for over 25 yrs. I too am experiencing very poor dependability on both my 2012 TXC 310 and my 2011 TXC. I purchased used but, like new condition from a very reputable dealler whom I have always been very satisfied with. However, as much as I hate to say it, I am so dissapointed in the dependability of my two newer bikes that I am ready to searching for lightly used old technology bikes. Seriously, one of the reasons for me staying with Husky for so long was the rock solid dependability and longevity of life. These new bikes have left me holding my head down, They have been in the shop more than I have ridden them. My 511 I have got to ride maybe 6 times and that was in the winter because when it is above 70 degrees it spits and sputters like I just poured a milkshake in the tank, new coil and replaced stator so far and still at dealer. Finally got to ride my 310 last night and after 40 minutes and it dying out several times, it quit running and never started back up, "REALLY"? I don't know what happened with all the changes but, it isn't too good in my opinion and it hurts to say that as I said I am a very loyal Husqvarna customer but, not a fan of being broke down especially when I ride in the deep woods.
  3. dirtbikeerdad

    Lighting for 2010 TXC 510?

    Have your dealer order you the TE headlight. Works amazing, fits perfect, looks great and is cheaper than aftermarket. I used an aftermarket LED with plate holder for my rear taillight and purchased the OEM brake switches for TE front is micro switch the has plastic push in mount that will install in about 2 seconds, rear brake switch is hydraulic so it is a banjo bolt with switch made into it. Will have to bleed rear brake but only took me a few minutes.
  4. dirtbikeerdad

    2011 txc 449 fuel problem

    I had this same exact problem this weekend. The dealership in Springfield, IL is awesome and I have purchased several bikes there. I called and talked to owner as I was deep in the woods hen this started happening. We were able to diagnose it down to two items. 1st he had me bypass my Dyno Jet Power commander at the fuel injector and plug in my original wire to go directly to stock ECM. This did not fix it but eliminated the power commander as he said they occasionally have intermittent issue (I have not had an issue so far). After eliminating the power commander, he said it is one of two things, The temp switch that screws into the bottom of the radiator (no, you cannot bypass as it sends a signal to the ECM) or it was the spark plug coil. He suspects the coil. I am taking it in this week and just let him take care of it but, will report back when he's finished. They are a great dealership and have amazing staff and mechanics. Not sure if you have fixed this yet but, you could always try the temp switch and if that don't fix it then, change out the coil and keep the temp switch as a backup as I have heard and he confirmed they do go bad occasionally.
  5. dirtbikeerdad

    2011 TXC stalls - Alot FMF Megabomb Power Commander V

    UPDATE: Turned brasss throttle body screw in all the way then out 2-1/4 turns out. Bike ran great as it warmed up to operating temp of about 198 degrees I noticed it was trying to stall a bit so I turned screw out 1/8 turn more (not 1/8 inch but, 1/8 turn) and now it runs great. I have attched an awesome PC V map for 2011 TXC 511 with FMF Mega Bomb and FMF factory racing RCT 4.1. This is a very nice powerband map that will not make your bike too lean but will rip when you twist the throttle. Crap my map file is on my other laptop will attach it later. Mike
  6. dirtbikeerdad

    2011 TXC stalls - Alot FMF Megabomb Power Commander V

    Hi 1Lunger, yes the Pc works the same.What you are saying seems to make sense. I do have a new development. I decided to adjust the brass screws on side of throttle body (screwed in all the way then, back out 2-1/4 turns) took it for a ride and ran exceptional. When I took it in the woods and got it up to temp (198-210 F) it stalled a cpl times but I was lugging it trying to get it to stall. I then, turned it out 1/8 turn more and more improvement. Going on a trip this weeked so going to not touch it for now. I would still like to figure out how to reset TPS. It stays at %2 throttle. I have tried unhooking battery and letting it idle like others have said on this forum however, with TXC there is no keyed ignition so can't follow steps. I have kleihn set up Thanks for the suggestions. If you come up with a TPS reset let me know. If I come up with any cool stuff I'll do the same. Mike
  7. dirtbikeerdad

    Xr100 got me stumped

    I have many years working on dirt bikes and have encountered similar issues throughout my years. My Thoughts. Start from beginning. Eliminate one issue at a time. Just boring over .10 should not make that much difference in jetting. Here are my suggestions: 1. Put all jets back to original, pilot, main, needle. Check pilot very good to be sure all holes are open. Use gum out brand jet spray and compressed air 2. Remove everything you can out of crab and gum out all passages and blow out with air. 3. Install all the original size jets, put needle jet clip in center setting. 4. Set air/fuel mixture screw: screw all the way in and then 1-1/2 turns out for initial setting. (air/fuel mixture screw is small brass slotted screw on side of carb) 5. Start bike let it warm up a bit then, idle it down as low as you can (idle screw is screw that moves slide up and down, not mixture screw) then, adjust air/fuel mixture screw by screwing in or out to get highest rpm, then idle bike down more almost to where it dies then, turn air/fuel mixture screw in/out to see if you can get a bit more rpm. You now have the air/fuel mixture set at it's sweet spot so now you can set rpm where you want with the idle screw and leave that area alone, you are done with that. (if you are having trouble accomplishing this there could be two issues. (wrong pilot jet, clogged pilot jet) or missing o' ring on air/fuel mixture screw. 5. Test ride then, adjust using guide below according to symptoms after test ride. Okay here we go, what does what and what to do for symptom. Pilot jet (small jet inside carb with the 6 holes along sides) controls idle to 1/4 throttle. (Already spoke about it, you should be good) Needle jet (one with clip) controls 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Usually does not make drastic change mostly for getting your plug to burn the nice brown color after getting other areas set properly. This is why I suggest to put clip in center slot. However, if you have a flat spot at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle you can move clip one spot up or down at a time to see if any improvement. Main jet (first one you see when taking bowl off) controls 1/2 to full throttle or as I like to say WFO Symptom: 1/2 to 3/4 throttle bike bogs at beginning but runs good at full throttle Main is too big. If at 3/4 to full throttle it sputters main is too small. Only adjust one size down if bogs and ruins good at top or one size bigger if spits sputters at top. You should never need to go two sizes unless you have done additional mods Note: once you feel you have it running good ride it awhile then, check the plug for color. Should be nice brown (best case) or with a bit of dark. Note: Now this is when you want to make any adjustments to the needle jet clip. If your plug is more towards black, you need to move clip 1 spot towards lean, if plug is more towards a whitish color you need to move clip 1 spot towards rich Note: always adjust one thing at a time. Note: Never underestimate spark plug, new ones can be faulty and drive you nuts. Note: most importantly Carburation issues can sometimes be electrical, even if you are sure it is fuel. Note: be sure you have clean air filter and not too much oil on it. Too much restriction from oil will make it run rich. Note: check coil to make sure the mounting screws are tight and the ground wire is tight (especially if top end spit and sputter) Spark plug boot /coil wire connection. Note: be sure boot clamps are tight that mount the carb to the cylinder and do not have any dry rot or pinholes. Note: is exhaust pipe restricted from dent (small dents won't be noticeable only if it is large enough to restrict flow) Note: is silencer clogged? Restricting exhaust. Can pull silencer apart, check packing and stinger to make sure holes are not closed up with carbon. If so burn it in a hot fire and reinstall with new packing. You can also check for heavy carbon on the cylinder where the pipe mounts but, this usually just robs power all across the power band. Hope this helps you, Mike
  8. I have a 2011 TXC 511 recently purchased from dealer with already installed FMF mega bomb and FMF silencer, has Power commander V, stock air filter. Love the bike but, if it Didn't have electric start I would be cussing my eyes out. The bike is constantly stalling/flaming out/belching whatever you want to call it. I have tried different maps, been playing with the one that was loaded when I purchased and have not had much success. I talked with the dealer once and he suggested turning the brass screw on the throttle body in 1/8" increments one way then the other. No help. I am not sure where the brass screw should be set at for nominal. I have read some fellow bikers say 2-1/4 out for the TE but, not seen much on the TXC. I also would like to try resetting the TPS but have no key switch. My software says it is at TPS 1 instead of 0 when I hook hop to my laptop. Driving me nuts, I just want to rip up the dirt not wear out my starter and battery. Appreciate any advice anyone may have. The map loaded is a very complicated one compared to some I have seen such as the one on the power commander site and the zipty (sp?) ones. I really think I am just missing something simple. I don't really think it is the map (but could very well be) Let me ask this. What do you all think of these spark plugs with the two contacts for the electrode. I have not been a big fan of them in the past but, maybe they are okay with the new technology. Just put in a new NGK CR9 EKB. The one I took out looked pretty good and gap was correct. I will continue to keep messing with the mapping until I get it running like it should or drive myself crazy trying. I runs good through the ranges but, will stall randomly sometimes at the top of a hill, or cornering or sometimes while I am just sitting still. Can't seem to pinpoint it. If I do get it dialed in I will be sure to post. Until then, fire away fellow husky fans. Thanks, Mike
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