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grungle

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About grungle

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Australia
  1. grungle

    A very dumb group of individuals

    !!! It must be something about dairy farming...between the ages of 17 and 21 I could have made a very similar video...
  2. grungle

    fmf q4 on my wr250f

    can't help with your problem, but do you like the Q4? (apart from the side panel) I'm thinking of getting one - is it quiet? still good power?
  3. grungle

    Chain Lube Q

    Outback Australian rock and dust. About 70/30 offroad/road. Not much mud, but a LOT of dust and sand. Occasionally (maybe 5 times a year) i'll get a good day of mud, but it gets cleaned and WD-40'd straight after. 7000km on the RK now and very little adjustment.
  4. Flat steel and a rock?! Nice one..that's what we want to hear more of... I started a camp fire using a bit of gas, some newspaper and the sparkplug from a TTR-90 (because someone forgot the matches). It took a while to get it in the right position, but it worked! Also used a stick and some zip ties to "splint" an clutch lever back together. And a camel-back hose to transfer gas between bikes (it was the end of the ride and I didn't have any water left anyway).
  5. I should make mention of this too, to explain the "bush mechanics" title... those in Australia will no doubt know what I'm talking about. Bush Mechanics these guys are the original bush mechanics:
  6. Not sure if this has been done before, but I thought it would be a worthwhile thread. After reading a recent ride report where a few creative riders modified the cooling system of a CR to run with only one radiator, I thought it might be helpful if people posted a few of the "bush mechanic" solutions they've come up with in an effort to get them home. I had a minor one last weekend: Cruising along in top gear the bike suddely bogged and died. After starting it and finding it still ran (but died as soon as the throttle opened) I pulled the choke out and managed to ride for 40 minutes back home without touching the throttle. I later found the clip had broken off the needle and plugged the main jet, therefore stalling everytime I opened the throttle. Another good one was cutting a section off my bar-pad to wedge between the air filter and the back of the air box after the securing strap for the filter broke off.
  7. grungle

    Chain Lube Q

    Yep, I did 11,000km on my stock DID o-ring chain using just WD-40, and I'm up to 6,000km on the RK o-ring chain that replaced it. Just WD-40 after washing it and a quick going-over again when I'm ready to ride.
  8. If you're after something that helps prevent dislocation (rather than impact protection) try the EVS SB-03 brace. It's got a heap of straps etc to hold your shoulder in place and it can easily be worn under armour. I've had one for a couple of years now, and while I don't ride with it, I use it every time I wakeboard. I got mine from eBay. Highly recommend it.
  9. grungle

    After market valves for YZ 250 F

    I didn't notice any performance drop, however I did put the YZ cam, JD jetting kit and heavy valve springs in, so I guess they could have off-set any losses the heavier valves caused. There may be a bit more noise, but you know how paranoid you get when you put it back together - you're looking for anything out of the ordinary... I got 11,000km out of the stock valves under VERY dusty conditions. Mainly trailriding, but quite fast (keeping up with all the WR450s). Often on the rev limiter. The SS have now done about 6000km, including a couple of 3-hour enduros in THICK dust (like riding through soup). Finished 3rd and 5th in pro lites, so the bike is still competitive. No adjustments yet either. They seem to be doing well for me, and even once they start wearing down I'll be much more comfortable simply shimming them back into spec. They should wear at a constant rate too, so it will be longer intervals between shimming.
  10. grungle

    After market valves for YZ 250 F

    I believe there is benefit in going to SS. I'm planning on keeping the bike for a long time, so longevity is important to me. For those that aren't planning on seeing the next top end rebuild I understand this isn't a big deal. I'm also of the opinion that SS valves are manufactured under a more "reliable" process. Surely everyone hasn't forgotten about the '06 yamaha valve problems already? Yes, they did the right thing and recalled those bikes that were affected, but so far every manufacturer (?) has had problems with Ti valves. They are a difficult and expensive part to make, and I didn't want to take the risk that I'd get the next bad batch and grenade my motor. I believe SS valves are easier to manufacture and are more tolerant of manufacturing errors. Finally, I ride in very fine dust - they say the dust in outback Australia is the finest in the world - and SS valves are able to tolerate more wear without significatly increasing the risk of a sudden failure. They also wear in a linear fashion, unlike the non-linear characteristics of the Ti valves (once you're through that hardened Ti layer that's the end of them...) They're not for everyone, but in those threads that ASK for info on SS valves I'm happy to provide my experiences, as I found it very difficult to find any information (other than "stick with Ti"). I hope that answers your question Rocky.
  11. grungle

    After market valves for YZ 250 F

    I used kibblewhite valves from the TT strore on my '03WR250F. They have now done close to 6000km and I've only adjusted them once. Sorry, I haven't tried any other brands so I can't really comment on "the best". Much like people that haven't tried stainless steel valves can't tell you if they're good or not... And yes, you must replace valve guides. I did the springs, retainers and everything else in there at the same time, it all came in the kit from kibblewhite. I have since done an '02 WR250 with stainless valves and that has been running for a year without a valve adjustment. If you want stainless, go for it, they've been good to me.
  12. grungle

    Tripmeter

    I bought a trailtech vapour when my standard one died. It's got way more features than the newer WR computer. Not sure about the price but the vapour isn't expensive (IMO).
  13. grungle

    06 yzf250 droped a valve need help please

    That's what I'd be doing. You don't know how much damage has been done to the bottom end so I'd be inclined to replace the lot. Are you planning on doing it yourself or taking it to a dealer? Just out of curiosity - how did metal end up in the airbox?
  14. grungle

    graphics

    I got these from the Thumpertalk store. They looked a lot better before my knee braces ate the tank graphics, but they looked great when they went on!
  15. grungle

    who's got high compression pistions for wr250f's?

    I've got a 12.75 : 1 wiseco in my '03 WR250F. E-start is fine. It feels like it has a bit more bottom end, but the old piston was very much in need of replacement, so a lot of that gain could just be from the new rings etc - hard to say how much the extra compression helped. Also have a DEP pipe and YZ cam. 98 RON Pump fuel is ok (here in Australia anyway), however I have found it feels better with a bit of octane booster added into the fuel when I'm racing.
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