BikeRider

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About BikeRider

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    Virginia
  1. A few thousandths is all that's needed to make something start knocking. Friend of mines Jeep Grand Cherokee was knocking (straight six engine). Ended up being the rod bearings. Found out later that these motors tend to wear the rod bearings out kinda quick. Anyway, I put a crank kit in it for him cause we were sure it was the rods knocking. Once we had it tore apart we did verify it was the rod bearings and just to see I plastigaged a couple. It was only a couple thousandths too big a gap, but that's enough so that the oil can't fully fill the void. Hard to say really what your motor might be without hearing it. Piston slap....maybe. Whatever it is, you say it quiets down once warm. I'd check the valves just to be sure. Easy enough to do that.
  2. You could use a stethascope to try an isolate the noise area. Make sure that oil is flowing properly (filter ok, screen not clogged). Mileage doesn't matter as much as maintanence of course. And of course things happen. Not saying you didn't care for the bike, just that it is a machine and machines break even when you do your darndest to try and keep it from happening. If it is a major thing, the knock will get louder quick. I had an old Plymouth Valiant spin a rod bearing and man did it get loud quick. You couldn't even hear the radio playing in about five miles. It made it home, but just barely. Maybe your noise is nothing major. These motors are pretty noisey.
  3. Huh. Well, I didn't know that bajaDesigns had those manuals on their website. I was referring to the single piece of paper that came with my light.
  4. HA! The instructions say "Here is a light. Install it.". Acutally, the wiring is here if you search UFO.
  5. Burned, thanks. And thanks for the help you've given me on my bike, in case I forgot to say so.
  6. Burned, you mean the driveline is worn out? Or normal noise for that bike?
  7. Did you look your disc over real good? Might better remove the back wheel and eyeball everything. Maybe a disc pad is failing, glazed or something. Maybe the disc has a problem. Don't want to mess around when it comes to stopping.
  8. Make your own rack! Somewhere on my website I show making one. http://home.earthlink.net/~rd41937/calmini/index.html
  9. There must be a story there someplace? What happened to your plastics?
  10. There is definitely a difference in the spring lengths from older and newer bikes. When I re-springed I was almost sent 574mm springs by mistake. Ends up my 03 S needs 511mm springs and the older models need the longer springs. You will have to use the spacers. If you had gone with Cannonracecraft they would have made you the correct length springs for your bike (like they did for me). I think to install, measure in the correct amount of shock oil (the oil height with the shock tube pushed in), then drop in the spring. Then spacer and the washer. Shocks off the bike is the easiest way to get the job done.
  11. I used to have an old chart that showed engine wear based on how much the motor was warmed up. What I remember from the chart is that a motor not warmed up to operating temperature will have excessive ring/cylinder wear. I always let any motors warm up a bit before putting it under load. I have a 3 cylinder Universal diesel in my sailboat, which always gets warmed up to operating temperature before going under load. It is more critical with diesels anyway. I'm not so good with my cars. But do let my bike warm up for several minutes before taking off. Mainly because once I get going, I run the crap out the motor. Hard not to.
  12. If something is copywritten, whether you think it should be free or not, you are breaking the law to copy it without the permission of the owner. Same with music sharing, movies and the like. You should remove the link.
  13. Of course starting off is what wears the clutch. So the more times you do it, the more it wears. Holding in a clutch doesn't wear it. With a car, holding in the clutch wears the throwout bearing out. It is recommended with a motorcycle to stay in first at a stop, so you can make a quick get away if needed (to get out of the way of trouble). Just a fact of life, the clutch is going to wear out. Keep the clutch adjusted correctly. A slipping clutch won't last long. The clutch is a pac of friction discs and plates. When you pull in the clutch lever, you are overcoming the spring tension that holds the pac tight together, allowing the discs to spin free. When you let go the clutch lever, the pac mashes together, the friction discs grab and you go. The adjustment (some lever free play) makes sure that the clutch pac is mashed together fully when the lever is out.
  14. GT80 gave you good instructions. Another thing that works good driving in seals (besides a seal driving tool of course) is a socket of the correct size. Make sure the socket is hitting the beefy part of the seal, not the inner lip part, so that you are driving against the solid part of the seal. Then just tap the seal in with a hammer. Make sure to keep it straight as you drive it in. Take your time. If the seal cocks, stop, straighten things out and go again. Never force anything when your working on a motor. Once the seal is mostly in, you can stop using the socket and just tap the seal, so you can see when it is flush with the side of the case. Did I mention to take your time? Motor work can be fun if you let it.
  15. I just sent him this message: It has come to our attention on a very large motorcycle forum that throttlehead owes our buddy Dave a sprocket. Word travels fast when a company gives bad support. It is the age of the internet. Dave's going to let us know if/when his sprocket arrives. There are several thousand of us watching the results.