paulwr450

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About paulwr450

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Azores
  1. So guys lets assume the starting problem is caused only by me being slack and only using the button...looks like i may have to put the kick starter back on. Has anyone had the flat spot problem, if i only open the throttle a 1/4 it couldn`t be better is only when i crack it wide open from low in the revs. This is where it is most noticable in comparison to the WR cam, It runs a bit rich on top but i don`t mind that, 190 main. Needle clip raised one position,45 pilot,screw out 2 turns as per YZ specs, again this was fine until the YZ cam was fitted. I know just ride it harder but down low is wheel stand area!!
  2. Yeah guys, I have checked it a couple of times now!! Are the YZ`s timed the same as WR`s...cam marks to the outer cylinder head upper surface and the T.D.C mark. I`m not sure what else it could be. I am trying jetting at the moment. I have heard that the YZ cam makes the starter system work harder so this maybe my starting fault, just need to get rid of the flat spot when the throttle is cracked.
  3. I recently replaced my 2003 WR cam with a YZ cam, the bike is a pig to start now when cold. It seems to rich as the throttle has to be held open a little or it just will not start. It fires but won`t pick up revs to an idle speed. The engine also bogs when the throttle is cracked wide open, WR`s do this but it is much more noticeable now with the YZ cam. Other mods, ported head, full exhaust, opened up air box and twin air filter. I have been reading about the air cut valve mod as I already have changed the jetting to YZ specs. The Australian models show the "Grey" wire so i am also going to try cutting it.