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angstDRZ

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About angstDRZ

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Interests
    Whitewater kayak, Paraglide, and motorcycle of course
  1. angstDRZ

    about had it with my drz-s

    I would love it if things were as simple as throttle position. It just doesn't have the juice to spin the starter. I spent some time reading the service manual today. Looks like some real good step by steps in there with meter readings but electrical work is unpleasant. Electrical work is not the engine teardown to go to a E base gasket I was hoping to do this week. Im in Chattanooga.
  2. angstDRZ

    about had it with my drz-s

    I should have given more details. I was kinda venting when I posted. When you try to start it barely turns over or not even at all. All the basic weak battery symptoms. I don't have any flooding or safety switch issues. I always try to get to the ignition key switch and turn it to off position right away when I fall. If I get to it fast enough and the bike has been rode for an hour or better it will spin and start. It it takes even a minute to get the bike back upright it is just too drained to electric start. The battery does seem stronger later into a ride but its like hours into the ride. I see two harness at the air intake boot on the left side that look like what you are talking about. . Is it at this harness that you tap into the red and black wires and route them directly to the battery? (2001 drz-s) If I understand the manual correctly the black and red wires at this harness should read 1.4-1.5v. Is it correct that this is a reading taken on the top half of the harness with the engine off and that if you took a reading on the bottom half of the harness you would read like 14v with the engine running?
  3. angstDRZ

    about had it with my drz-s

    Just back from another dissapointing ride. It just doesnt start after dropping the bike. I have had to bump start it in some rediculous places that have left me exhausted and cutting the ride short and my buddies unlikley to invite me with them again. The battery is 4 months old and has been kept on a tricke charger. I have not done the "free electric power mod" http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70551 cuz Im unsure where to splice in. Ive got the service manual which just makes me more unsure where AC current ends and DC current starts. When I fall it is not draining through the headlight because that is well broken and my tail light is modded to a small 2 led tail light. I did a thread search on the kick starter mod and see that its over $200 for the part. I don't think I can bring myself to that. It seems more sensable to do what my buddies are ribbing me to do and sell this thing and get a "real" trail bike. Talk me off the ledge or push me over. I could go either way right now.
  4. angstDRZ

    need to up the compression on my drz

    Ive got these in my bookmarks http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=366778&highlight=base+gasket and http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254987&highlight=3+ply+base+gasket plus much more can be found using the search feature up to the right of the screen in the red bar. Anyone running thinner base AND head gasket?
  5. angstDRZ

    How can yu tell if you need to revalve your suspension?

    Sorry if Im hijacking but the orig. poster may also want to know the answer to this. I always got on my buddy for not changing fork oil in his DRZ back when I had a MX bike. Ive had my DRZ (s) for almost 2 years now and Ive never worried about changing my fork oil. I guess I prob should. What is the oil change interval if you ride +90% trail? Not really understanding these particular forks has prob. held me back. Can you simply undo the damper bolt on the bottom and drain without taking the fork of the clamp? (2001 DRZS)
  6. angstDRZ

    $35 walmart battery. Brilliant or 'tarded?

    So, someone has tried it! I had already comitted anyway. I picked up a battery at wal mart earlier today. I brought my Yausa in to size it up to the best physical fit of what they had. The only one that wasnt way bigger was the real little one made for scooters that is like 2 or 3 inches shorter in length. When I got it home I discovered that the post are reversed so Ill be adding some legnth to one of the cables. Im reading up on posts about initial charge while acid sits overnight. Tomorrow Ill try to rig up a light so my 2amp car charger will charge at only 1 amp. Ill report back how it works out. For trigger1911 i think this is the post you were looking for about upgrading your wires. Ill probably be doing that myself now but we'll see how it goes more electrial power
  7. I've searched old threads. I've float charged. I've 2amp charged. I've pried off the top off and added water. I'm past the denial, anger, etc, and am at the final stage, acceptance. My battery has gone mammarys up. There were some references in thread searches to people trying Wal-Mart motorcycle batteries but never a report back on how it worked out. The local Sprawl-Mart has motorcycle battery choices that would make a motorcycle or auto parts store envious. The fit booklet doesn't have a match to what is on the shelves, but many are a real close physical size match and they are all priced in the low or mid $30's range. Even taking price out of the equation, grabbing something off the shelf is preferable to mail ordering. Price is of course a player in the equation though. There is one that really has my interest. It is a good 4 inches shorter in length than the stocker. Maybe the amperage won't get the job done, but its gotta be 2 pounds or more lighter in weight. ( did I mention price?. Yeah, its like $35 bucks) . I've done some admittedly silly mods in the past to shave a few ounces, so a potentially sketchy battery choice doesn't seem too over the top. In the past I've contemplated moving the battery somewhere lower in the frame by swapping its position with something like the crankcase oil recapture or coolant overflow recaptre areas. Of course contemplation and action are very different. A necessary replacement that is $35 instead of $45 or even $80+ seems too much to resist. Particularly if it weighs less. Set me straight if Im making a mistake. Otherwise I'm heading to Wally World to start getting this thing dialed in for the fall riding season.
  8. In just a couple days Ill be trailering up for the mostly annual 1300mi pilgrimage to Colorado. What is the best all round Colorado jetting? Im hoping to pull the carb apart and set it up in my garage before I leave while Ive got a reasonable work space. Im hoping I can have a jet setting that will allow for at least reasonable performance with just air screw adjustments. Ill be at a variety of altitudes. Will probably ride at Estes Park, Rampart, Salida, and Lyons area. But I will also be in some much higher areas too like Crested Butte and Taylor Reservoir. 2001 DRZ S DJ Kit, 3x3, yoshi Rs-3 w/TEC insert. Currently set up for Tennessee 142 main, 25 jet
  9. I finally got all the necessary tools together to do the flywheel mod but there is not enough time to send it out to procycle before a trip. Anyone have a lightened stock 400s flywheel they want to sell ?(perhaps you just upgraded to the trailtech) drop me a line at angst at usa dawt com thanks Eric Z Chattanooga TN
  10. OK, thats aggressive you got me beat. I think on mine ill leave some of that bar so there is something there to pick the bike up with when I fall over or need to move the bike around by hand. Any chance you weighed the bar you cut out? There are some mounting holes up near the start of the fender that look like they can go. On the pass. side an exhaust support bolt goes through one. On left side its a mystery to me. Before I cut these off can anyone tell me what they are there for?
  11. Doh. If its already an alluminum subframe then no easy swap out answer out there unless your buddy works at the Unobtanium Cantafordium factory. there still could be some merit to shaving it a bit here and there. Not a top priority mod for sure, but if you do it once while waiting on a ride or something. Any weight you take off is off forever. I do this on my kayaks and my buddies think I am nutters but it is fun just like other mods. 30min in the garage may only result in shaving 4 ounces that day, but would you rather be in the living room with the wife? Back to the original posters question. Would there be any harm in cutting sizable chunks out that are there maybee for structural reasons like the cross piece under the fender, or since almost no other bikes have some of this stuff start hacking away cuz its probably all just there for easy assembly or other street legal type reasons we could start a new thread based on sk4's pic of how far you are willing to to. Weigh the piles and declare a winner.
  12. 8oz from just the helmet lock? thats not insignifignant. Is that a guesstemate or actual weight? That would suggest that there is some weight savings to be had by getting even more aggressive with a hacksaw and cutting out the metal section that loops around up under the taillight assembly. I'd consider the S for E subframe swap. I cant imagine why a E rider would want an S subframe though. What would the weight diff. be between the two I wonder. I wonder if there is an exsisting bike with an alluminum subframe that would bolt right up? I bet that would shave like 2 pounds or more.
  13. I thought a buddy was going to be able to sneak and make me one at his work, but alas I must purchase a flywheel puller tool. Who is done with theirs and wants to sell it? please e mail me angst at usa dawt comm
  14. angstDRZ

    Idea to get a flywheel puller

    Totally. A look around google and e bay makes that pretty apparant. The repairmanuals.com site is the cheapest around at $38 puls $6S+H. Every other puller out there is $20 or less. This puller seems to be pretty straightforward the specs are out there for everyone to see. Its called MP-42 and its 38mm x 1.5. I gotta believe a machine shop wouldn't charge you but about $20-30 to make one from scratch. Perhaps someone in that biz here on the board should make a mini batch of 20-30 of em and sell em for about $20-25 direct or even through TTstore. Otherwise regarding tool swap program. What about a sub forum for DRZ buy, sell swap? someone done with a puller could make a clean sale to the next user who could keep it indefinatley and sell it later if they chose to. I think a DRZ swap sub-forum would get plenty of use for lots of used drz specific stuff like, tools, cams, plastic to sell between TTers.
  15. angstDRZ

    flywheel tool and other flywheel q's

    Ian Maybee you are interested in selling yours when you are done? angst (not this part) at usa dawt com Eric Z
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