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About kbuckey

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  1. Electrical Connection (www.electricalconnection.com) makes a little kit that converts your rear turn signals to brake (red), turn (amber or red - I have amber), and running (red). I put on a clear lens although they say you don't have to. Their added light is a red LED ring that goes around your base bulb, although I also have an amber LED for the base (turn) light. Works great. Can't use that on the front because it's red but, (thinking here, which is pretty dangerous for me) if one used their circuit on a regular LED bulb, I wonder if that wouldn't alow it to be on or flash? Hmmm. Anyway they work great on the rear!
  2. When my Harley riding friends invite me to ride with them my usual choice is my DR, NOT the ZRX1100 and certainly not the ZX6. Before I got rid of the DL1000 for my KLX250S I sometimes would ride it. Still the DR is always much better than the Harleys in the mountains, but is still fun if I just stay with them.
  3. I've got the Datel on both my V-Strom and my DR and really like them. Peace of mind for the state of the charging system.
  4. I run a Gerbings jacket liner and heated grips. On the other hand I have changed every bulb in the beast for a LED. Except, of course the headlight, which is a 35 wt HID. Plus two Solo LED driving lights. I also run a digital voltmeter which reminds me that if I run the jacket and grips both turned up much past 3/4 (and I seldom get there: usually nearer 1/2) and have the headlight and driving lights on the voltmeter tends to trend down into the 12's. However I can turn the driving lights off and the headlight off independantly. I've run in the 20 degree range for hours and been comfortable and the voltmeter in the 13's. If I slow down I'll turn stuff off/down as necessary. Works for me!
  5. Hmmm, I've changed all the bulbs to LED - except the headlight which is HID and the turn signals and turn signal indicator. And added VisionX LED driving lights. Also did the kit so I have LED red running and brake lights in the rear turn signal housings. I've since put in a Vapor Speedo but I did like the blue LEDs in the original speedometer (until the speedo died). The only reason I didn't change the turn signal indicator was the polarity issue. Guess I'll get the diode kit and do that. Still don't know for sure about the turn signals themselves....
  6. Hmmm, I thought the 4300 was pretty much pure white, not yellow at all. That's what I have and it is much whiter than the stock light but shows no blue. Oh well, works for me.
  7. XP-DBK-HB2 - it's the H4 hi-lo kit for motorcycles. I asked them if I needed to have it switched to turn it on after the bike was running and they said no. They were correct - however I have it switched anyway: I turn it on after I start the bike. But when I forget to turn it off when I turn the bike off and come back and start the bike with the light on it works fine.
  8. Well, I've got the HID from Future Vision (www.futurvisionhid.com) and I do like it. It provides a good pattern even with the stock light reflector. The low beam has a nice defined cut off so it does not blind other drivers - although I did have to adjust the whole light down to get it to the correct place. High beam provides much better distance vision - although the pattern is not quite as uniform as I'd like (but then the pattern of the HID projector beams on my wife's Lexus RX350 aren't quite as uniform as I'd like either). It uses less electricity which I also like. The only hassle with the install was the ground was a little short, but I just grafted a longer wire on it and it has been working great. Been by lots of cops with it, no issues.
  9. I love mine - even crash tested it! Had it 4 years now. Rode the DR in to work today (20 miles, 27 degrees) - man that thing makes a huge difference! Also, four bolts - about 5 minutes - and you're ready to off-road.
  10. I put a future vision HID headlight on the front which is substantially brighter than stock and saves some of that precious electricity too (only 35 wattsdraw when running). On the rear I put the Electrical Connection turn/running/brake light kit on. It works great. I note that Adventure MotoStuff (amotostuff.com) has LED array for both front (turn/running) and rear (turn/running/brake) for the DL1000 from MotoLED. Looking at my DL (on which I also have the electrical connection setup) I'll bet you could put the full MotoLED setup on the DR.
  11. I put a 130/80 Tourance on the rear just because I couldn't get a 120/90 Tourance. Noticed little difference in the rear except greater traction, etc. Turn in seemed to be unaffected by that change - but that's a little hard to tell because feel, traction and turn in were greatly enhanced by the front Tourance. All on pavement, of course. It's pretty acceptable on dirt roads.
  12. Correct, they aren't listed. I e-mailed them and sent them a picture of my bar end weight (after it was removed from the bar so he could see the mount) and he said it was the same as ???? - I think it was for a Buell but you probably best e-mail him and let him know what you want. If you tell him I did it once perhaps he has that on file (My name is Kerry Buckey). The ones he sent me work perfectly.
  13. Brain cramp. Was thinking crush washers not the bolts (that would get expensive). Sorry about that. The rear feel is much improved, too - I only use it on dirt and less than perfect pavement (of which there is a lot). But the stainless line gives it some "feel".
  14. Don't know about that one, I've got a Throttlemeister on mine, which I like quite a bit.
  15. Of course, you're not supposed to re-use banjo bolts. By the way, my Speigler lines made a big difference in brake feel. Can't remember what I paid, though.