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About rzkid

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  1. Decided to check things over and figure out what is happening, and post what I found. 1. The gear punch mark on the right side does not line up with the arrow when piston is at true TDC. I have a choice...TDC, or the punch mark. IF I go off the punch mark, the bike runs. IF I go off absolute TDC, the bike does not run, kicks hard, etc. The directions in the service manual specifies to go off the punch mark/arrow....then says TDC. These are 2 different things on MY bike. 2. I put the stock cam back in to erase that variable. also set the decompressor to .010 instead of the recommended .014. 3. The bike now kicks over much easier. It starts, idles, and runs smooth. Whacking the throttle I get a bog, which will be addressed when it warms up and I can ride it.
  2. Believe me, I have read all these posts, one thread after another, both on this site and crfsonly, and was blown away with so many people having issues. I have had these engines apart before. Nothing I won't tackle. Timing is so easy, and after having issues with this bike, I played stupid, got the manual out, and did it step by step, more than once, checked/rechecked to the point of being paranoid, and it did not run. IF the flywheel was off, using the straw to find TDC would bypass the issue. Running a hotcam stage 1, and even tried going back to stock. All I know is if I had to time it, and there were NO marks on the cam to go by, it looks right, and it runs.
  3. This is true. I have put a new chain on it. I have had the flywheel off. My marks all lined up, and piston was dead on TDC. The bike did not want to run. My 03 was off a bit also, but was either above or below the mark. Could never get it right on like I can the 06. On most 4 strokes, with piston at TDC, the exh valves are closing, the intakes are opening. This is 180* opposite of where the timing is normally checked. I've been messing with this for over a month now, and decided to take a close look at what was happening. It is not normal for any spit-back thru the carb. It did not seem normal for the exhaust to still be open after TDC. My exh valves have made slight contact with the piston since the first disassembly. Thought it was valve float, because the timing was spot on with the marks. Sooooo, Watching the valve timing while turning the crank, it just didn't look "right". Retard the cam 1 tooth and I run a bigger risk of valve/piston contact. Figured I would try advancing first. There are too many people having issues with this. Could there be a problem on Hondas end? I think so, and I should have known to check the timing before it was disassembled the first time. My mistake. I am listed as a newby. I've worked on these things for 40 years, and never had to do this before! This one had me stumped.
  4. What I mean is: 1. The mark on the right side lined up. 2. Piston was at TDC verified by the "straw" method. 3. Second mark on the flywheel (right one) was lined up perfectly. First mark (left one) is for ignition timing. No matter, piston was at TDC. Just looked at the flywheel to verify all was lining up correctly. 4. My cam gear lined up perfectly with the marks. IOW, cam timing appears to be perfect. problem was it wouldn't start, and once I managed to get it to run, it ran like crap! SO, I bumped the cam ahead 1 tooth. My lines do NOT line up. The bike now starts, idles, revs, and runs smooth.
  5. I did a valve job. Reassembled, and kicked til I couldn't kick anymore. Then it fired up, and ran like crap....bog, backfire, and die. Hmmmm. Pulled it back apart, check piston, rings, pull carb, mess with jetting and cleaned, and reassembled. Still no better. Oh, and my timing was spot on....everything lined up PERFECTLY. Ordered new cam chain. Nope, no different. Recheck timing. Carb off again and cleaned. Nope. Still no go.....kick my head off trying to start it. I advanced the cam 1 tooth. Yup, my marks are not lined up now, but that is what I did. Put it together, and FIRST KICK she fired up. Took it for a ride, and I think I got it! IF you are having problems, your marks are probably wrong also. Try this!
  6. Thanks guys for the suggestions! I found some ss exh valves (NON-black diamond Kibblewhites) on ebay that I might get ordered. Any comment on these????? Checked the exh springs to make sure they were not switched with the intakes. They were good. They (springs) are also Ferrea brand which have been run in my old 03 with no problems. On disassembly, I had also checked the valve timing, which was good. Took a look at the old piston which was replaced this past summer, and no valve marks on it. As suggested, I'll check on a timing chain! Good idea. Was going to post a pic...I have a good one.....and found no direct link to my hard drive file to post it.
  7. Only exhaust showing eyelash marks makes me think it's valve float. Running Hotcam stage 1 which I ran in my 03, with aftermarket springs. I am wondering if I got the intake/exhaust springs mixed up. Could be the intakes are a weaker spring and not pulling the valves back in time? I checked the timing when I pulled it apart, and it was good. Bike would not run. My intakes were too tight, and have new stainless Kibblewhite ones coming with springs. Just noticed the exhaust problem.
  8. Pulled the head off for a valve inspection, and it looks like the exh valves are making contact with the piston. anyone seen this before???
  9. Questions. 1. Why is there ANY gap, at either end of the throttle opening? Seems like if the slide moves, it should be squirting. By grinding the rivet, I was after more diaphram movement. 2. If the spring is strong enough to maintain contact, what is the purpose of wiring the linkage? Just "to make sure"? By adjusting the screw, I was getting rid of the rest of the gap that was left from not grinding down the rest of the rivet as per instructions. Might not make sense, but it works. This is on a '03 450. Jetting recommendations if I back up and do the whole mod?
  10. I was a bit more conservative. I had a bog off idle that would not go away, so I felt some sort of action was neccessary. I had a Quickshot bowl already installed. I only ground about 1 1/2 mm off the diaphram. Then I adjusted the linkage screw to where there was no gap at WOT. I did NOT safety wire my linkage. The leak jet is stock. After firing the bike up and setting the engine at a high idle, the fuel screw was set to where the engine ran the smoothest. Readjust to a normal idle, crack the throttle, and NO MORE BOG! Went to the track for the real test. No bog or hesitation! When the throttle moves, the bike goes! Also have a Stage 1 HotCam, SS valves and aftermarket springs, WB air filter and cage, FMF exhaust. I have all the motor that I personally can handle.