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chrismxer

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About chrismxer

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  1. He irritates me once in a while with his announcing and his retarded podcasts that I've given up on. Ricky gets so much shit but this guy irritates me more.
  2. First thing would be to call RT but I doubt they'd give you any advice on what to change if you didn't purchase the reb piston. But they should give you a base valve setup that takes into consideration that you have a stock mid/reb setup. If it was me setting up for enduro I would reduce float on the mid by .1mm to get it into the .35 range and leave your reb stock. That post linked above has good info.
  3. Both forks are great if set up properly. I rode a set of KYB SSS on a new YZ250x that were set up etc and I thought my xplr forks were better. Not that the SSS forks aren't great, just saying that the OEM WP stuff can be setup to work just as good without completely gutting them.
  4. I find the best way to find neutral is to climb a technical uphill and then sometimes it pops right in it..??
  5. I had a 19 FE450 shock apart the other day and held the shock piston with a straight edge over it and couldn't fit any feeler gauge or see any light between them. Doesn't seem like it's dished as some have said. KYB and Showa you can tell but I couldn't with the WP piston. It wasn't surfaced like past pistons though.
  6. Sounds like a good idea. Race tech recommends .45 and 5.7 for your wt. speed and "prefers soft setting". That looks good to me or something close. I know I prefer a softer spring on 2 strokes and definitely if your tackling more technical terrain.
  7. I just got a 19 150sx for my kid and thought I'd have a little fun on it too when he's not riding it, but I got to say I agree with you 100% when comparing to a bigger bore 2 stroke. I have an 18 300 xcw and when I tried the 150 I think it's faster on top than my 300! It has that kind of rocket power that puts a grin on your face. I bought the bike barely used with 20 hrs and have only ridden it once. The guy put in a JD needle and the rest is stock, oh and I put the yellow spring in it. It's a freakin rocket! Now I just need to get the suspension dialed. For me at 190lbs I was using 115 lbs in the forks for the trail and I think I could have gone less. Anyway's, really fun bike. Can't wait to put some more miles on it.
  8. The idea is not to take up all the free movement and preload the ICS. It's to add more space between the floating piston and the fork cap. Add 8mm (going off memory) spacer so the floating piston can move through out the whole stroke instead of bottom out on the bottom of the fork cap prematurely. When this happens excess oil is bled out and you get a cartridge that wont extend all the way or even close. PVC works fine for the main spring preload, I think it's almost identical to whats in there now..? Also for offroad you might want so disable the TCV vavlve, which is basically a big bottoming cone that comes into play way earlier than a traditional bottoming cone. I think you can do this by removing the bottoming cone at the bottom of the cartridge but it's been awhile since I've worked on those. Good luck!
  9. Mine had .25 float. I speculated the heavy reb stack is help it turn. Fairly firm base and .50 springs, your going to need some help to get it to settle. The comp adj stack in the shock is very stiff too!!
  10. You are correct, float is excessive! For average guy moto I reduce to .20, will give it a more controlled feel and not dive too quick.
  11. Not sure if this has been posted before but I found a few interesting comments from an Amsoil Rep? about Diesel oil and Motorcycle oil. I know a lot on here use Rotella and probably an equal amount think we are retarded for using it. Skip ahead to 3:30
  12. The reason for all the .3 shims in the reb is he got the idea from Enzo, which I think was there answer to the Ti shock springs back then on the YZ's. From what I understand Ti behaves a bit more erratically. So if you have a steel spring then normal reb dampening will work fine. I also had a lot of issues with Dave last time I dealt with him. Great guy but he just seems unable to say "no I'm too busy!"?
  13. Is this just personal opinion or do you have proof? It sounds good and I would think the same if I had not tested one against the other but it was just a seat of the pants feeling. I can't tell the difference between the 2 after countless tests to get to each forks best setting for me. Another thing to think of is KYB/Showa with big pistons vs WP cone valve type forks. WP hasn't taken on this big piston is better theory and I haven't heard of any disadvantages using WP because of this... Just some thoughts
  14. Good indication the valving is too soft and riding to deep in the stroke etc.. If it were me (regarding your float) I would make a normal shim stack and test at .4-.3 area and match your base to that, but thats a guess since I have no idea what your dealing with cartridge size and piston etc...
  15. 5-20 mobil 1 synthetic is close to 15wt Maxim fork oil. mobil 1 5w-20 - Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt is 49.8 https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1#5W-20 Maxima 15wt - Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt is 47.1 https://www.maximausa.com/tds/suspension/Fork Oil TDS.pdf
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