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Gazza2005au

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About Gazza2005au

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Australia
  1. Gazza2005au

    Changed top end from SM to E

    Hi guys i have a DRZ 400 E i changed the complete top end from a SM to the E, I have compression so it seems, I have spark, There is fuel i even tried pouring a cap full down the spark plug hole Any idea why she won't start? I am using the original E FC39 carb, There is one small L shape hose missing from the side of the carburetor it looks to be a small vacuum hose
  2. Gazza2005au

    Aussie LAMS approved bikes

    Settle tiger, look at the big bore 500+cc bikes man plenty of get up and boogy actually i donno why or how they are even learner approved I think the 2 stroke 250-300cc are not legal i could be wrong tho i have not looked up the LAM BL since i kissed those s... P plates good bye years ago
  3. Gazza2005au

    What kind of bearing?

    Thanks guys, Is it just a plain old metal cage bearing I'm looking for? would really dislike doing another bottom end due to a bearing but Suzuki Australia wants $70 a pair of bearings
  4. Gazza2005au

    74jimbo's engine build thread

    74 that is just like having 4 bald tires on your car and only replacing 3 mate that 4th one will eventually give way, what I'm saying is if you have your engine a part and your rebuilding everything else why would u not service the head while your at it just because it works doesn't mean its not on its way out and when a head lets lose u see the destruction in my pictures it just doesn't stop working it completely totals the engine all it takes is 1 worn valve to stick in the valve guide and bingo
  5. Bardoli holly jesus man 60kph in 1st gear?! you are revving the beast to hard man 60kph should see u in 2nd about to go to 3rd my old 2007 topped out at 90kph on stock gearing to give u an indication You know your classed as a hoon doing 60 in 1st? haha be careful man heaps of cops down here that are willing to confiscate your bike for 30 days the anti hoon law sucks
  6. Gazza2005au

    74jimbo's engine build thread

    Mate if your going to that length i suggest u go over your cylinder head thoroughly!! take a look at this $3000 DRZ i picked up for $500 because it had dropped a valve and smashed the engine to pieces mind u this bike was in the shop 3.5 months ago for new valves the shop only replaced the intake valves and didn't even touch the exhaust valves and u bet cha one of the exhaust valves snapped! first pic is what is left of the piston, you can see the compression piston ring hanging out the top second pic is the cylinder head where the snapped valve just pounded it third and fourth pic 2 holes in the cylinder wall fifth pic shows the bottom of the cylinder missing please do check those valves man i would hate for this to happen to you and your bike! even have a shop do a basic service on the cylinder head just a basic check and clean
  7. Gazza2005au

    What kind of bearing?

    Hey Guys, An Aussie here just wondering if anyone has replaced there counter balance shaft bearings with non oem and what exactly am i to look for? i see there are all sorts of load thrust bearings etc.. i hope it's not just plan ball bearings in the correct size My DRZ400E 06 dropped a valve and demolished the engine i have already ordered aftermarket crankshaft bearings (HotRod)
  8. Vintage and Rocky Thanks for the help i have spark i tried two different used spark plugs, the timing i double checked and is correct, valve clearance is within spec, i pulled the spark plug we are getting fuel but i think it may be flooding not sure if it's flooding on it's own or if the lengthy cranking by the electric starter is flooding the engine i removed the carby bowl with the carby on the bike and it was dirty i than cleaned both jets but that is as much as i done for the day as it was getting dark outside how do i clean the idle passages? i'm going to remove the whole carb and use some carb cleaner and power up the compressor
  9. My nephew bought a WR250F 2006 as a non runner i stripped it and found the crank was blown, i replaced the crank, rebuilt the whole engine, i have spark and i reused the old piston and rings which looked good to use so i have spark, i have fuel, i have compression, but the engine won't start all i was getting was was the engine turning by using the electric start than i tried to kick start it 10,000 times still wont start, by kicking it over it back fired every few kicks than i adjusted the idle screw and lost where its location was so it is now way off, anyone know how to reset this? i looked it up in the manual found everything else carburetor related but no idle screw information does anyone have any idea what might be the problem? i am good mechanically but i really dislike problem solving one last thing the old owner said the bike had Hotcams installed but he removed them and installed normal cams back in the bike, the valves are within clearance and i double checked i reinstalled the flywheel woodruff key
  10. Gazza2005au

    Splitting WR250F 06 Crankcase's

    Yeah mate its the silicone holding it together i just can't break the seal, i will try again this morning thanks
  11. Hey Guys Any tips on how to split the cases i have undone every bolt and removed everything possible from both sides, I'm using a crankcase splitter but it just won't budge
  12. I got the shim's sorted thanks guys, i used 1.20mm on all 3 intake valves 2 are on the money and one needs a 1.35mm shim it gave me a lot more compression but not enough to start the bike as the kick starter still rolls past TDC without the decompression lever
  13. A shim kit cost $175 over here mate or we pay $10 a shim, i see you lucky guys in the USA can buy shims for $1.99
  14. Well guys i just removed all 3 intake shims and i couldn't fit a feeler gauge in there a the max on my gauge is 1.00mm so i tried doubling it up but just could not get the feeler on the right angle i even tried bending the feeler gauge to fit in it just wasn't working I see on the Yamaha Workshop Manual they only have 2 sizes on the chart for under clearance but a huge range for over clearance so i'm going to buy 3 of the smallest shims than install those, from what i got using the doubled up feeler gauge i'm somewhere around 1.45mm shims so the smallest shim available is 1.20mm so it should give me a ball park to start at Thanks for the advice it is very healpful
  15. Hey Guys I have a YZ250F 2001 it has very little compression so today i checked the valve clearance i had zero clearance even using a 0.05mm feeler the thinnest my gauge has, i went 0.10 smaller on all intake shims and i still have no clearance at all Can someone let me know what my next stage should be, could i some how measure without the shim's in place to see where i'm at or is their another way of doing it? Thanks Gazza
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