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pintopower8

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About pintopower8

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    pintopower8

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  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    dirtbikes, roadbikes, cars/trucks, guitars, work
  1. The air boot, and the air box is completely hooked up. I wish it was something stupid that I had done, but remember this 4-wheeler did this before I worked on it. Are you suspecting an air leak?
  2. yep I lost the needle : ( I reinstalled it correctly and now I'm back to where I started. The engine will now idle and it will revv up but as it revs up it runs out of fuel? It cuts out and backfires occasionally. It goes into a total misfire, looses rpm,but then bounces back, revs up, and cuts out again. When I didn't have the needle in there the thing ran great.. So I'm obviously running out of fuel and is the needle the cause? I could really use some guidance here. I really want to fix this thing.
  3. Thanks Eddie! It was the pinholes inside the pilot circuit. Good call. One last prob. Now that I have cleaned this circuit, the 4-wheeler runs great, however it will no longer idle. You have to crack the throttle to start it, and excessive black smoke is present at low rpm. Do I need to turn in the mixture screw? Runs great other than that!
  4. I got this 4-wheeler (sorry but it is relevant) to fix for a friend. It is a 2000 Polaris Magnum 325. Problem is it will idle great, but as soon as you give it some throttle it chokes off and dies. Cleaned all the jets, along with the needle jet and the main jet. Checked float height. Everything seems fine. Spark is good, fuel pump can fill up a bowl in a matter of seconds. filter fine. I don't quite understand the round slide function. Can anyone shed some light on what I'm missing? thank you!
  5. use a welding rod next time
  6. There is no thermostat. Like I said the cooler is not there to make the engine run cooler, just to maintain its temperature and so it doesn't overheat. but if you don't believe me do a test. Point a laser temp gauge at the cooler while putting a thermometer in the oil (or measure block heat) and test if they both heat up at the same rate. If there were a thermostat the cooler would not heat up with the engine.
  7. not so. your intake likes cold air. Your engine likes heat. A colder thermostat will lower engine performance. The oil cooler is not there to let the engine run cooler, but to maintain a consistent temp and not overheat. Also. with the cold warm up-- letting it warm up when its that cold isn't going to protect your valvetrain when the oil is too thick to reach them on startup. Running a thinner oil may be your best option.
  8. You can't always blame the valves. I've had a bike make that noise and it turned out to be a bad connecting rod.
  9. Overfilling may lead to foaming. but in most cases you can get away with it on a bike
  10. Sounds like an overheating issue... Did it seize? Did you check your oil level? I would hope you checked your gas, and tryed switching to reserve... I doubt its the clutch that made it stall like that. change your oil and filter, see what comes out. You may have overheated it and fryed the top end, which could give it power to start, but not enough to get it going down the road.
  11. I have a 1991 Suzuki DR650S with 16,500 miles on it. No mechanical problems, runs like a champ. Gets about 40mpg (sad I know) but it does have a supertrapp on it and runs slightly rich. Its a great bike, other than the poor counterbalance design of the older ones.
  12. thats an interesting story, but you could cause all kinda trouble telling people that. All vehicles are different. I also am taking an auto tech course and have just spent about 80 hours of theory, a lot of which is on oil. So this is recent. Its true what you said if somebody who knows what their doing ( like a technician) has a vechicle and knows how to proberly warm the engine up and keep the oil away from contamination and harsh conditions the oil should last longer, and maybe even last forever. With a bike, however the oil does more then a car engine, it lubes the top end, bottom end, and the transmission. It also has to deal with the wet clutch. It probably could last 3,000 miles, I'll be honest. For me, I change it every 1,000 miles or every couple of months, because I was educated by an ASE technician with 25 years experience, and has seen just what can happen when oil is ignored. Its security for me.
  13. Do yourself a favor, look for a new engine.
  14. Yep you just learned the most important lesson you'll ever learn in your life. Without oil and oil pressure your engine will die. some people seem to think they can get away with it. the top end peices all have sliding friction which means hard metal rubbing hard metal. Without oil it all goes bad. Also I'd count on a new piston, rings, maybe even an overbore. Maybe the oil pump crapped out too. I'm sure the lower end is worn out bad also.
  15. if they had a real good 85 octane fuel it would do good thing for our bikes, but yeah the ethanols a joke.