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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

creed75

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About creed75

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    Italy
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    sx and mx
  1. I suggest to look at the AP circuit, diaphragm inspection first, blow out the leak jet. Next check the squirt duration and how far it squeezes. Then fuel screw&pilot jet, start from factory specs. Big bore as so sensible to AF ratio oscillation, cold or warm.
  2. Average suspension velocities as a function of bike speed and bump height
  3. That's from a CRF250 R 2004/09 service manual, hope can help!
  4. Clicked, just started hacking around with the program, and got some good result. Just few questions to clarify my doubts . a) why did you set up D.hsc @18mm. on the shim spring stiffness calculation for the cup edge load, you chose a valve w/ throat, any particular reason on that? c) didn't catch you up on the choice of the 0.2 mm float about the shim spring stiffness calculation and the reason they aren't clamped. d) on your plot haven't see the swap BTW the 20's and the backer as you suggested. The 19 setting up in the stack didn't work on my calculations. I put back the 20's. Flow area & shim stack Shim edge lift - damping Force - damp. Cff plots Valve's & stack's setting
  5. Thanks a bunch Clicked, for your attention in chiming in this issue, your helping is always really appreciated! That's what I was talking about, a little bit tricky to grasp all the things you wrote down, but I'll give it a try and get back as soon as possible with some results to discuss. Have a great weekend! Cheeersss!
  6. Hi Guys, somebody has any idea or sorted out an easy way out to run the new Kyb MidV mechanical spring setup (AKA LVSP) on the program?
  7. Here a little more advanced https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/810025-Base-valve-vs.-mid-valve-Question......
  8. That's a great introduction https://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?/topic/1088415-Mid-valve-float---seeking-knowledge/guidance
  9. As far as I know they work such as the pro spring perch tubes. In my opinion, save your money and learn how to work on your suspension if you want resolve specific issues. Almost all stock suspension can be tuned to cover all possible conditions.
  10. Static sag is in between 0,5/1,5" range, small number less floating. With a short spring I would try 40mm no matter what ride height #. If you had good traction with fresh oil, change it as soon as possible and soft the HSC nut ¼@time, until you bottom out and go back ¼turn. Set LSRB clks half way from full closed. Turn in until you feel the bike run into the stroke as deep as you like. Keep shock LSC halfway from fully closed, if you feel it soaks up to much go up 2clks@time until it's firm enough. On the fork go back to the 1st mark, LSRB halfway from fully closed, couple of clks in if you feel it to light. On LSC clks set them 14 out from full closed, go up if the front end has a light feeling. Ride the bike and get back with your impression.
  11. *the rear is great on any rock type and at any speed. To me, the rear does not squat correctly and keep the bike square.* It looks like you have an issue w/ traction on the other hand the bike doesn't settle well on braking as well, does it?....but overall it handle well cz it has good front/rear bias. Speed is shock shaft speed actually. *My issue with the rear is related to big whoops and popping off of jump faces* How much sharp are the whoops' face?...if they are similar to long rollers w/ smooth face and span each other top to top more than a bike length, we can address them as low/mid speed. Jump faces usually in a desert context is more low speed. Before to address the stack I suggest hacking around with clicker setting&ride eight. Post your front ride eight & static sag numbers as well as fork spring pre-load, and shock static sag#.
  12. All clicker setting I suppose they're from fully close, aren't them? *Suspension when new --- it was great in whoops and rocks, but the rear shock rebound was unpredictable on jumps and whoops, it usually rebounds too fast when you pop off of a face* Perhaps you mean it soaks up small stuff and long rollers and your weight can help to balance the spring@low speed, but it's off setting @transition&high speed? @what speed you hit the rocks?
  13. Look at the chart & match your oil cst@40/100 with the oils listed on the chart. Don't make the error to go w/ wts! As of how long a fresh oil last, I wouldn't go over 18/20hrs, after this time performance get worse. About the rebound, post your shock settings and spring rate.
  14. Small wonder you're experiencing what you call Hydraulic-lock, to me it's just too much HSC damping related. On the other hand as I mentioned since the beginning your setting is off on the shock just because the bike drop down to easily @the beginning of the stroke. This trigger another problem on the rebound chamber as well. As a result the rezzy can't supply the right amount of back pressure to resolve the problem, then the spring is unloaded on both HSR and transition. What sounds weird to me as well is the spring rate vs damping profile. Generally speaking going up on the spring rate is balanced by reducing the damping force as long as the valve doesn't have a particular ports shape. Dropping so fast in the stroke running the stock stack with the 5.2, as a rule of thumbs means you have to go up still on the spring rate. The test you made by hand and with your friend doesn't make sense, there is no way to engage all the stack by hand or hitting thing @low speed. You should find a way to produce at least 25-30kgf.