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    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

Chevy Muscle

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About Chevy Muscle

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    Texas
  1. I just wanted to thank you guys and this board. This was the problem.... brakes great now... and then releases
  2. That sounds logical. And, you were right.... there was NO free play in the leaver. I had to screw in the adjuster about 1/8" to get some free play. I hope that was the problem. I'll have to take it back out and try it again now that there is some free play. I have my fingers crossed, but if anyone has additional ideas, I'd like to hear them too. Another Note: The brake would be locked up, but later one (after checking it about 1-2 hours later, the brake would not be as tight.... still tighter than it should be but not as bad. Maybe that confirms the heating of the fluid causing part of the symptoms.
  3. Here's the deal: Bought a used '03 TTR-125LE about a month ago. It's for my daughter. Took her riding and after about 3-minutes of riding the front brake pads start to tighten up on the rotor. This is through normal riding and using the brake to slow down. Soon later it gets so tight that it locks up the front wheel. I took the caliper off and it seems the pistons are extended all the way out and not going back in when the brake is released. I used some clamps to force them back in and put it back together and it was fine again in the driveway.. Pull the brake and it stops and relase and its fine. Took her out riding again and the same thing happend after a few minutes of riding. I took it back apart, released the blead-screw and pushed the pistons back in again and then re-filled the brake fluid and blead the brakes. Seemed fine again until I took it out riding again yesterday. Same thing,... I ride it for a few minutes using the brake normally and then it starts locking up. Note: When the brakes are locked the lever is real hard when you first start pulling it. I *think* this means that the plunger is not stuck (as it would seem to me that the lever would be soft at first and then hard when almost all the way in). I also *think* that somehow the calipers are over-adjusting themselves too far tight. Please suggest what to do.
  4. So, if I read that right, you're saying that she should look for a size-6 alpinestar?
  5. I need to buy some boots for my daughter. She wears a size-7 in womens shoes. What does that cross-over to in boot sizes (are they all men's sizes?)? Thanks!
  6. Thanks for the opinions guys. I bought a '96 YZ250 yesterday and for now, I'm happy with it. I'll have to do some tuning on the suspension, and maybe the carb, ... so I may be asking you all for some advice on that.
  7. LostTrail, TommyB, Are you guys saying that a two-stroke motocross bike will be ok for my "-Ride trails most of the time" desire?
  8. Ok, I know you all are tired of this but I've been doing some reading and searching and I keep getting different answers to what I'm looking for.... so here is the question: What used bike should I look for? Who I am: -I usually weigh between 230lbs and 240lbs -I haven't motorcrossed since I was a kid (17+ years ago ) -I have lots of recent crotch-rocket experience but no recent dirt experince (it's like riding a bike, right ) What I want to do: -Ride trails most of the time -play around on a MX course (not during an organized race) -Jump while playing around (nothing crazy, just clear a double or table top every once-in-a-while) -I'm pretty good with mechinical stuff, but I don't want to break down 3-miles from the truck every time out. Price range: -Lookin for mid-to-late 90's bikes because if I want to spend anymore then I'll have to give up some of my other toys.... and I don't want to do that. .....As for color.... I don't care too much, but I have Honda and Yamaha dealers close, so that might be a little more convienent for parts/stuff What do you think? I was thinkin maybe a late 90's XR400.???
  9. I'm interested in the same question. I did some searching and the Garmin Rino 130 (or 120, 110) look cool because they've integrated a two-way radio in it. I've never had a GPS unit before so I don't know much about them.
  10. Your too fast and I couldn't edit my post before you quoted me. In the second graph the RPMs are different at the peaks of each bike. But in the first graph, the XR400 was beat accoss the entire RPM band .... which means the torque must be lower accross the band. The second graph shows that If you want to run BELOW 8500 rpm, then buy a XR400, if you want to run above 8500rpm buy a CRF.... other than that, it's not apples-to-apples
  11. Thanks for the welcome. Now, I don't want to argue with you here, but if you look at the formula that Tom was good enough to post a link to (Thanks), you will see that the only way that result HP number can be higher at a given RPM than another bike (at that same RPM)...... is if the torque was higher (again .. at that RPM). My post pointed to the vise-versa example where the lower horsepower bike MUST have lower torque at the same given RPM. Regarding your example of RICErs and supercharging and nitrous..... both of those increase cylinder compression pressures resulting in higher torque. That higher torque will measure out to a higher HP at a given RPM. The most important thing is to not forget the RPM function in this formula. Small engines can make big HP numbers IF the engine builder moves the torque curve into the higher RPM ranges..... that will always increase HP number but almost always at the expense of low-RPM torque. In summary, Lower torque (at a given RPM) = lower HP (at that RPM) [and vise versa] If you look at the graph with the CRF, you will see that the RPMs are different at the peaks for each bike. That's what I'm getting at. It really depends on what RPM you want to run at.
  12. Ok, I'm a car guy and this is my first post here, so I hope I don't make myself look stupid. Horsepower is measured by torque on a Dyno. HP is simply a function of torque measured at a given RPM. So, when you see a horsepower graph, you are looking at numbers that are derived from torque with a calucation that accounts for the RPM at that measurement. Maybe someone here knows the formula. Anyway, that graph shows lower HP numbers and the torque numbers will be lower (compared to the other bikes) too.