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SRE7

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About SRE7

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Arizona
  1. From what I can see, titling a bike in Arizona has to do with ownership. If you can prove ownership, then you probably could get a title in Arizona
  2. Thanks much guys for this advice...my 06 250x was blinking the back lights also...didn't know what I did wrong when I did the top end. The battery is tired and won't start the bike, even after getting a "full" on the charger and also desulfiezing (sp) the batter, and thought I was going to have to change it before the blinking back LED light would go right. Checked my 15amp fuse and it was blown. Replaced it and lights quit blinking Thanks again....great help!!
  3. SRE7

    Crf250x rev limiter?

    Big Red and Jim... Thanks for the great, great insight. Jim, got to be one of the best and most beneficial reply ever! Wow, great info and reading. Big Red, good personal insight, think I'll stay with my stage 2, don't want to lose any more low end. May try the pink wire mod, but make it reverseable. Great discussion! Thx
  4. SRE7

    Crf250x rev limiter?

    Thanks Jim, I'll give it a try. Do you believe that the extra 500 rpm is not detrimental to durability of the engine and our the valves? Thx again for the education!
  5. SRE7

    Crf250x rev limiter?

    Hey Jim, thanks for the info. Hope you won't mind offering another opinion... I have a 06 250x with the CCC mods, hot cams stage 2, fmf power bomb header, de-baffled stock can, jetted right on. Mostly ride desert with marbles and single track. What would the pink wire maping do different than no pink wire mod? It sounded like you inferred that with some mods which make an X similar to the R motor, you almost need to do the pink wire mod to effectively take advantage of the other engine mods. Did I understand you correctly? Thanks
  6. Thanks guys for the suggestions. Adamsavage... hey, someone told me that they didn't like the wiesco due to the material it was created from tends to "swell" when it gets hot. They said that you have to have a bit of sloppyness (i.e. piston rattling a bit) until it warms up. Once warm it works great, but it slaps around a bit messing with the cylinder when cold. Know anything about that...any comment?? Martin...don't do that to me...a CRF300...oh yea!!! I can only dream about that!! Yea, I totally want a long lasting set up...I'll take a look. Thanks again!!
  7. Greetings all...I'm pretty new to the forum, but have been lurking for quite some time. Have a 2006 250x that I need to freshen up. Want to bump the compression on the piston from stock and it seems the consensus is that I can be pretty safe with 92 premium gas and a 13.5:1 compression ration. Somewhere, someone stated that a stock Honda piston 13101-KRN-A10 (listed for a 2008 250R) is a 13.5:1 CR. Can I run this on my 2006 X?? Also, one quick question...when I look at Pistons online there sometimes are pistons that list the specifications but also add a letter such as "A", "B", or "C". What do these letter mean?? Is it like an oversize indicator much like the old two strokes "bored over"?? Thanks for any help you can offer this old timer.
  8. SRE7

    Hotcam Problems

    Hey, I bought a Hot Cam Stage 2 used from a guy here in AZ and he offered to put it in for me. My 250x ran pretty good before the cam install. I have done most of the CCC mods, minus R cam and pipe. Pretty much set it up like Rick Ramsey's bike. I came from a YZ 426 and love the light weight, but just wanted a bit more low end. Well, when we installed the Stage 2 cam, we reshimmed the valves properly and the bike was really tough to start and even tougher to keep running. It would high idle and would run if you kept it revved out. The guy couldn't get the carb to make any difference in the lack of idle. Great!...I was scheduled to go on a 80 mile ride the next day and my bike now wouldn't idle and ran with a fast and fluctuating throttle. I figured what the heck... I could ride it and somehow make it work. Ended up having to ride it with the choke on for the first 15 miles. Couldn't get it to idle and it died every time we stopped. I will tell you, it made me a faster rider, much faster than I usually am since I couldn't slow down and let it idle, I had to charge at everything. Anyway, I tried to take the choke off numerous times and it just wouldn't run with the choke off..unless I was going faster than I was comfortable. Yea I know what most of you are thinking...Choke on = runs better. Choke off = barely run. Gee, think if might be a bit ....lean?? I have a 42 pilot jet and it ran so good before the cam install...I figured it can't be too lean. The higher we climbed in elevation the better the bike ran. I might be a bit slow, but I was starting to put two and two together...it probably was a bit lean. So i stopped, and I got it running, screwed the idle screw in until it would idle (really high idle RPM) and then turned the choke off. I then started to adjust the fuel screw OUT (richer) until I could turn the idle screw down. I kept doing this until I was pretty much at a normal idle = pretty happy guy with a big smile. I don't really know how far I am out on my fuel screw, but I bet it has to be 3-4 turns out. I kept worrying that the fuel screw was going to vibrate out and leave me stranded. But it never fell out and the bike runs just great now with that Stage 2 cam. Everything that I read says that the Stage 2 is a Mid to Top end cam, which I somewhat agree, but I seems to me to have more down in the lower range than my stock X cam had. I got use to chugging the 426 and I catch myself trying to do that with the 250x also...I now can do that a lot better, now that I have this Stage 2 cam in it. To make my fuel screw issue a bit better, I'm going to go up on my Pilot Jet which will allow me to screw in my fuel screw to get the same air/fuel mixture...and probably increase my Main jet since it seems I have some "lean" issues. To address the OP and your starting problem...Try screwing out your fuel screw ...way farther than you think is appropriate and see if that helps your starting issues. If not, I would take the hour or so and put the old cam back in and see if the problem is the same. Double check the valve clearance again also... Hope you get it running since it was a really sweet addition to my new to me, 2006 250x.
  9. SRE7

    02 valve adj settings ???

    Thank you Sir.... I have noticed that your posts are quite informative and free of wasted, un-needed words. Your posts and comments are quite valued and carry authority....Thank you for all your help and insight...it is and has been a great service to many. May you find a resource for your unknow interests that is as good as the "resouce" we have found for ours.... Steve
  10. Greetings All, Please forgive me if this is not the place to post this question...I am pretty new. I have an 02 YZ426 and my official owners' service manual states the valve clearance on the intake should be 0.10-0.15 mm...ok no problem!! Well the Clymers (M491-2) manual for this same bike states on page 78 the intake should be set at 0.15-0.20....ok now a problem!! Could I get some opinions on which is correct and what you guys have used?? Thanks for any and all help... Steve
  11. Hey, I took the carb off and the bowl was still full...I know....it ran down my leg and all over my hands ;-) It took apart the diaphram holder and checked it all out in there. My thoughts were to do the HB/Doc mod and solder up the leak valve. However I looked at the carb diagrams both on the web and in the Yamaha service manual and put it back together like the photos showed. I think what I did next was just a stroke of good fortune. Well after it was all back together and full of fuel...still not squirt when I spun the carb slide wheel. I then thought, maybe I need to pump the actual diaphram plunger....HA...that was it...full 10' squirts...yah hoooo. Now I can adjust the slide/squirt timing and then set the squirt duration due to the freshly installed BK mod. If you think I am jazzed...your right....I can't wait to get it all back together and be a YZ rider again instead of just an old YZ mechanic. ;-))) I love to work on this bike....but now I just want to feel the.......speed!!!! Thanks for all your help and support....This TT place is great!! Steve
  12. Greetings.... Thank you to all... I will try and go through each of your lists. Dave, yes, please do tell me how to fix the diaphram...I don't know if my is bad, but I would like to know how to fix it is bad. Thanks again Steve
  13. Greetings.... Thank you to each of you for such a great place to hang out. I have been lurking for almost a week and a half. It really has become an obsession. I am obsessed to get back to TT and read more of the good stuff that I don't know. I just got an 02 Yz426 and it didn't run very well at idle and down low. I assumed, due to the bike having been stored for a while here in very hot AZ, it needed a carb cleaning. Well I took the carb completely apart and have now put it back together and hooked up the fuel, checked to see if the bowl had fuel and spun the carb cable wheel ...the wheel where the ends of the throttle cable attaches....and there was no squirt at all. It did squirt at least a couple of times before I removed it the first time. I am so new to thumpers and this type of carb, I don't even know what I don't know!!! Any suggestions?? I read somewhere that you have to crack the throttle pretty quickly for the squirt to happen...maybe I am not cracking the slide fast enough with my turning of the carb cable wheel??? Any help would be much appreciated.... Steve Evers Chandler, AZ
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