Taylor521

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About Taylor521

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    Virginia
  1. I ordered the gasket and it will be here on tuesday, 22nd i think. I took this apart because I did a rebore job, the only part i couldnt do was the boring since i didnt have the proper tools, i dont understand how this gasket can cover up such a gap, im still suspiciouse that this is not the cause of the problem (the problem of the gap between the ring nut and the engine). Anyone know if this is the cause? I figure since the ring nut already has troulble meeting flush with the engine then how could putting something between the two fix the gap? Even if it could fill in the gap, the gasket seems to be a circle, not the oval shape of the ring nut. Im confused. Also, could moisture from the air cause cylinder rust if it were allowed to enter the cylinder? Just a normal moisture content in mid november, and the bike is in a barn not outside, the exhaust is removed and it went 2 days without a rag in the port, I didnt check if the exhaust was open i just shoved a rag in the port. anyway thanx for helping/reading -taylor
  2. the ring nut I am talking about is #2, but i noticed #15, the exhaust pipe gasket, I dont have that! Its hiding from me somewhere, and if you look at the microfiche, the beginning of the exhaust has a thicker diameter or what i called in my last post as a "spacer," this is what i can see when i look through the gap. I took the new ring nut off before it bent any more, it bent slightly and i hope it isnt enough to render it ineffective, now i guess ill have to hunt down that exhaust pipe gasket (#15), i dont even remember it. Chances are my mom put it somewhere that she thought was a more appropriate place to store it.... yea right. If anyone has any suggestions that could confirm/deny anything feel free to say something. If not thanx anyway, forums are a great tool. -taylor
  3. 225 '00 The exhaust ring nut (the metal plate that holds the exhaust onto exhaust port) is not meeting flush with the engine, there is a 3/4 inch gap. The exhaust doesnt have any leaks that i can detect, but at first i thought it was the cause of a faint rattling or soft clicking only heard at certain times, so i replaced the ring nut thinking it was bent and allowing the exhaust to rattle around (it was bent, but i havent determined if it allowed the pipe to rattle). The new ring nut all sparkly and such, is straight, and the old one was certainly not, but i think i still hear a rattling noise that isnt as bad as earlier, good news for me. The problem is that the new ring nut still has a gap just like the old one. So i can see the spacer that is attached to the exhaust when i look into the gap, the exhaust is stable and does not move when i test it by hand (pushing), I am concerned if this is normal and especially if this could be causing more problems for me, i have made way too many ignorant mistakes in the past with bikes, and now i am dedicated to doing it right before using bikes at all. I first noticed this after having the cylinder rebored, and reassembling it, it runs and starts fine for now, its had about 3.5 hours with the new parts is this gap normal, i dont know if its damaging the engine, and i never broke anything to cause it. Maybe i forgot about a spacer, because the ring nut is the only thing holding the pipe on, no gaskets or anything
  4. i had the same disturbing suspiccions when i first checked my valve clearance (225 '00) and I determined that to the best of my logic that the last mark on the fly wheel was the pistons highest position (stated earlier). Except instead of this mark |--|--|, my flywheel has |--| |. I dont understand why they dont just put a T on there somewhere, too greedy to make it easy for their customers to do it I guess. on the line farthest to the right was the one that i placed my bets with and i didnt have any problems, also I just (recently) had the bike rebored and i did all the assembly work, the bike has no timing problems and i was able to watch the pistons movement in relation to the markings and it seemed to be correct. But im not a yamaha engineer so dont take my advice as fact. adjusting the valves i just used a wrench and needle nose pliers, and kept trying until it was acceptable. The only unanswered question i had was how do be sure the gap is the same as the feeler gauges sheet of metal, because i didnt know if it made a difference how much pressure was being exerted on the feeler gauge for it to still be an accurately read gap. Maybe the metal could have been compressed or if the presssure was too low but still touching the gauge then how could i know it was all the way down to that level. Oh well, im not doing significant damage and i keep my eyes and ears open so im satisfied. I also have a question if anyone knows, when i was putting the camshaft sprocket on i noticed that the shop manual said to align the peg on the camshaft with the stationary pointer on the engine. But in other places ive seen people say to align the mark on the sprocket with the pointer, but the problem was the two werent aligned... they were no more than something like a degree off and when i was handcranking the engine to double check that they were in sync i noticed the sprocket would land with the pointer in between the peg and the mark on the sprocket, each were a half tooth away from the pointer so i was more comfortable with taking the center point of the 2 markers as the actual alignment point. If anyone thinks im in trouble feel free to say something cuz the bike is running with that alignment.