Earl999

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About Earl999

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  1. These are what I use, they are actually 250GP roadracing tires. They work super well as a tard tire and are much better for use on larger roadracing tracks. I've used SM specific tires before and they cannot handle the higher speeds and heat of roadracing tracks, but are great for SM/kart tracks. If you ride on larger roadracing tracks, these are the slicks to run; KR106 120 front soft, KR108 165 rear medium.
  2. You need to ride with me so you can how I ride my YZ125; flat out screaming! If I ran 32:1 I would be fouling plugs all day long. You guys can run whatever mix ratio you want, I could care less, my bikes run superly well and they can idle all day long as well. Plus, my top and bottom ends last much longer than most other peoples 2 strokes. No need to post any more on this thread........I'm done.
  3. My '04 KTM 525 SMR came stock with 15/45 final drive gearing. It works well even on smaller to mid size road racing tracks, but I have 6 speeds. I also have a 42 rear sprocket that I use for mid to larger road racing tracks and I give the sport bikers fits.
  4. Very nice! I think those Prillers are about the sexiest bikes around! Congrats on owning 3 of them, that's terrific. Just wondering what kind of issues you've had with the bikes, and how is parts availability?
  5. Yep, I see this as well. Klotz is terrific stuff, there are many different types, but I've found that TC-W3 works the best in dirt bikes for general purpose use. If you race MX, you may want to use R-50 for extra film strength and added protection. Use 40:1 as a baseline, then start the jetting iteration process.
  6. Absolutely correct, that was the intent of the one of my earlier posts, to differentiate between the two ratios. Baseline the fuel/oil at whatever you want, then dial in the fuel/air from there.
  7. Please show me where I even mentioned 4 strokes in this thread, all of my references were to 2 strokes.
  8. Why would one jet for 32:1 and then run 50:1 premix? I always use 40:1 and jet accordingly for that ratio, it gives me terrific results. Klotz is excellent, I've been using it for over 30+ years now with no blown engines and clean combustion chambers after the jetting is dialed in. My power valves are MUCH cleaner in comparison to guys who run that viscous/gooy castor oil based premix oil. Syn oils are superior in every aspect. I do use (car oil) Mobil 1 15W-50 in my 4 stroke bike engines, but have gotten the best results with Klotz in my 2 stroke engines.
  9. Why would anyone jet for 15:1? 4 strokes are another story, let's not go off on tangents.
  10. It's not weird, it's just basic engineering science. At 15:1, there's just too much oil and the heat cannot pass on to the conductive surfaces to get convected away, due to the insulating effect of the excessive oil. At 50:1, the engine will run much cooler, due to the heat getting conducted/convected away at the proper rates. This is why I run 40:1, it's the optimal ratio for most conditions IF you're using a quality syn premix oil. If the crank seal blew, odds are the bike would stop running altogether, after a short period of running.
  11. Dyno runs are even better proof. How can you realistically say you have the right amount of oil to go from 32:1 to any other ratio by adding thru the spark plug port? By what you say, I should've blown every 125 engine since the water cooled bikes first came out in the early 80s. I have yet to blow an engine in my time, that's about 41 years of riding now. My 125 top ends last quite a few hours of use, and I ride just about every w/e during red sticker season. And what about Sta Bil is so deleterious to the engine? I'd like to see some scientific data/fact on that claim.
  12. I've been using Wiseco dirt bike piston kits for many years w/o any issues at all. The cast versus forged debate is really moot for dirt bikes, the silica content and thermal characteristics only comes into play when discussing GP type 2 stroke bikes.
  13. First thing you should do is buy a service manual, so you'll what items are out of tolerance/worn and need to be replaced. Otherwise, you are just guessing and could be replacing items that are still within tolerance. I bought a Clymer service manual from Motobooks in Florida for my '96 WR250 (that I just bought), disassembled the bike and checked it out, then ordered a bunch O parts from Rocky Mtn.
  14. Oh, congrats to the original poster on getting the bike to run better. Just a word to the wise, if you are going to let your bike sit for a while, let's say greater than 2-3 weeks, be sure to put 2 ounces of Sta Bil in the gas tank, and then start the bike up for a few minutes to get the Sta Bil into the carb jets, and passageways. It'll keep the gas from deteriorating and clogging the jets.
  15. I have yet to foul a plug at 40:1 or 50:1, so I don't understand where you get that 50:1 fouls plugs? Those rich fuel/oil mixtures (20:1 to 32:1) were needed for air cooled engines back when, due to much higher expansion rates of the engine components, and the need for increased oil for lubrication/fricition reduction. With today's liquid cooled, hi tolerance machines, which are terrific at heat rejection, the extra oil will just make the engine run hotter with the additional oil volume that does nothing but act as an insulator of heat inside the combustion chamber/cylinder. The key is finding that optimal running point for you elevation (air density) and riding style. I settled on 40:1 as it gave me the results after having tried 32:1, 36:1, 40:1 and 50:1 in my '04 YZ125. I run Koltz premix syn oil, which I settled on after trying many different premix oils, it is some incredible stuff. I've converted many 2 stroke riders to this oil, after they rode my bike and felt what a well set up bike was like. I use TC-W3 for my dirt bike engines, and I use to run R-50 in my TZ250 road race bike, which I just sold. Now, if you want to learn about jetting, buy one of these V twin cylinder 2 strokes, I guarantee your thoughts on rich and lean oil mixture and proper stoich fuel/air ratios will change in a heart beat. Those engines live at 14K RPMs and need to be jetted properly for the ever changing air density conditions, or Kablam-O!