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Ronin 26

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About Ronin 26

  • Rank
    TT Silver Member

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  • Location
    Alberta
  • Interests
    supermoto, moto X, bush riding
  1. x2 on Bazzaz.
  2. I re-use new gaskets all the time. They get torqued during mock up. i paint them with high temp engine paint at final assembly. As long as it hasn't been heat cycled you'll be fine.
  3. He starts the test at 5000 rpm.
  4. Nice work Ron, I can't read the numbers, looks about 40-41 ish peak. Wicked gain through the mid. I've had a built 07 on my Factory Pro dyno. I can't remember the specs on that motor, I'll check the run data and my notes and compare.
  5. Manual Tensioner Set Up Instructions: -with the engine at TDC (#1 and 4 on in line fours) on compression stroke run the tensioner lock bolt in with fingers ONLY until it stops (finger tight). -it is now safe to turn the engine in the normal operating direction. While turning engine over with a wrench again tighten bolt with fingers only. -once bolt has again become tight back it off one or two flats of the lock bolt head and check that the chain is tight (some chain deflection will be present) on the camshaft sprocket. -while holding the lock bolt in the above position tighten the lock nut against the tensioner body. -the head of the lock bolt is drilled to accommodate safety wiring so it can not back out. Drill one of the tensioner body mounting bolts and safety wire the lock bolt so that it may not loosen. -check camshaft chain tension at each valve clearance check, readjust every time the camshaft is removed, or as necessary. If the chain becomes noisy, re-adjust the tensioner. -if tensioner is too tight it will damage the chain guide contaminating the engine oil. If it is too loose the chain will be noisy and could allow the camshaft timing to change resulting in a failure. -if the tensioner is set up properly it will make for very reliable camshaft timing, and cannot fail if the above procedures are followed. -if the tensioner seems to “sweat” a little oil, back out the lock bolt (engine at TDC on compression stroke) and place some PST on the lock bolt threads and reset the tensioner. The o-ring can now be removed. If this is done all PST will need to be removed from the lock bolt threads before re-setting tensioner as it can skew the feeling of finger tight.
  6. At 13.5:1 you'll be fine on pump premium unless you're in deep loam or heavey mud. If you're an A rider rum race fuel. At 14:1 run straight race fuel, mixing isn't recomended.
  7. You'll be fine, try it out.
  8. Nope a new head is ready to install. Adjust the valve clearance, and make sure not to over tourque the cam caps.
  9. Normal, constant mesh trans
  10. No it won't. If the journals are damaged (mushroomed) they're wrecked. .013 inches is huge, the oil clearance is much less than this. The head needs replacement, although i have seen some repaired. This involves welding up the journals and remachining the cap and journal as a set.
  11. Cir clip out and a little heat on the outer tube they'll com apart
  12. I guess i have to runt he 04 for another race season, NEED a slipper....sigh. Thanks
  13. is there a slipper clutch available?
  14. Mike is correct, hone it with a flex hone to break the glaze so the new ring will seat properly.
  15. check cam timing