Jump to content

126LuvsChiX

Members
  • Content Count

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 126LuvsChiX

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Florida
  1. 126LuvsChiX

    Frame question

    yeah its like paper thin steel.....they start to rust quickly where your boots rub the paint off. maybe thats whay they cant give em away.
  2. 126LuvsChiX

    05 Rm250???

    if durabiity is your desciding factor though.....Yamaha or honda all the way ....start with the frame- Yamaha wins / Suzuki Frames start to crack at the welds...(know through experience) Motor.....Yahama again.....more durable excel rims .....titanium pegs and rear spring?...you guessed it..... Yamaha in the end, you start to wonder what Suzuki even offers (besides track side support) thats superior to anyone? I actually was just reading this forum as I am rebuilding an 05 RM250 as we speak...not a bad bike...... but same ol Suzuki designs since 2001.
  3. 126LuvsChiX

    Crazy Talk

    i am at the "end" cause I just replaced the main bearings all seals, gaskets, and tranny bearings as well as an all new clutch, and many more little parts inside the motor.....2 rides and its doing it again ...the only thing I didnt replace was the crank itself and being an 04, I know its over due.So im thinking excessive runout is allowing the oil over through the crankshaft seal. I was hoping the main bearings would be good enought but I guess not. why do you think it would blow up? Ive taken apart yamaha's , kawi's and suziki's....and even KTM's and they all use one oil throughout, with no main seals at all...the oil pick up is at the bottom of the engine side, and as long as I dont run it dry..i cant see blowing anything up.. The problem we have is that the seals go and allow the trans oil into the side doing the "sucking". without allowing it to pass back over to that side after circulation.....so the result...if you let it get bad, is fried tranny and motor oil in your airbox. as for the levels.....I've checked the levels....and if you look closely when its apart ....the L to H on the sight glass is right about level with the center of the crankshaft... which is about level with the oil level screw on the right side cover. So in theory , if the oil levels are about the same anways, whats the difference? Once the oil gets pumped up to the head and through the crank...it just falls back to the bottom and keeps it all wet. All I need to do is create a return system (holes) to allow enough oil to pass back and forth freely. and change oil often, which I do anyways. and in the end whats the worst that could happen? It doesn't work and I need new cases......among other things. ..I've spent more than that on and exhaust system! I'll crap myself if this modd actually gets rid of the clutch fade that honda's are notorious for. (including mine) maybe opening up the sump will help with heat as well.....well see.
  4. 126LuvsChiX

    Crazy Talk

    hey all, I am at the end of my rope with this tranny oil in the crankcase problem that we all seem to have once the bike gets a little old. I am going to modd my case(s) to allow the oil to flow all through both the crankcase and tranny like every other manufacturer does..... with lots of success I might add.... now that I have to split the cases again (cause Im sure my crankshaft that I didnt change is probably to blame), I am going to drill some holes to act as a pass-through for oil near the pickup screen, but on the right side of the one-way valve. Next, I am going to remove the clutch side oil seal to allow oil to flow freely through that side back to the tranny. by opening up the area between the transmission and the wet-sump it should allow the level to remain even....which is basically the way they are supposed to be now. my only concern is that not enough oil will flow back into the tranny as it runs.... but we'll see. I'll let ya know how it worked in 2 weeks when its running again. later
  5. 126LuvsChiX

    1991 cr 250 problem

    assuming everything you checked is ok, and the carb is clean and known to be in good shape, it sounds to me like your getting an air leak of some sort.....such as the cylindar base gasket or the main seals. air could be bypassing your carb when the motor gulps it in. and the reason the bike boggs and won't rev is cause the mixture gets so lean that at high RPM it is pretty much just running on air.... but I would check the spark plug you were running to see if it is white tipped. that would tell you the running condition of the engine.... also if you can start it try to revvv it with the choke on....and see if it improves or worsens....that 'll get you going in the right direction. good luck
  6. 126LuvsChiX

    Can't find source of oil leak near water pump

    yeah the shaft and bearing are the main culprits here.....as they spin they get groove lines worn in them from the seals......the bearing also gets loose and allows radial play which causes the leaks.... to double check before you rip it apart.....take a pin or paper clip and insert it in the weep hole, and check for oil residue on the clip. good luck
  7. 126LuvsChiX

    Boyesen Quickshot question

    all I can say is this.....I have the QS in my crf 450......I put one on my buddies KXF250 -2006-- and when I took the O.E. cover off it looked EXACTLY the same!....dimensions ,2 fill holes, everything. even the depth and rivet stop were indistinguishable between the 2 covers....so what do i think? I think keihn has since copied the QS cover and just started machining theirs to be the exactly the same. as for the bog.... I did the AP mod as described in "sick throttle response" and I'll tell ya.... It works!!! that is what will cure the bog when you snap the throttle off idle....by linking the actuators together, you lose the bog because the fuel squirt is more instant, and by shaving the rivet, you can control the duration( I set mine to bottom out just before WOT.....then you adjust the leakjet to richen or lean the squirt, the mod will probably leave you rich when revving ( small puff of grey smoke from exhaust)...get a few leakjets and go 1 leaner till the grey smoke is no more. also you may need to lean up the pilot jet too......I had to turn my fuel screw all the way in to get it to start easy (or hot start it). but when its all said and done, it makes a big difference in the response of the motor. good luck
  8. 126LuvsChiX

    Crankcase breather hose.

    not at all...the crankcase breather doesn't actually suck in....it just allows the pressure in the bottom of the crankcase to equalize when the piston comes down and displaces the air in the crankcase......no dirt probably made it all the way up it...and even if it did. it would end up in a chamber in the top of the cases that is cast into them for the breather. the intake tract is the one to watch out for.
  9. 126LuvsChiX

    04 CRF 450 oil problem Need help

    its the seal on the right side of the crankshaft......it could also be the left side balancer seal since they both seperate the trany oil from the crankcase oil.....i just had to rebuild my whole lower end and tranny bearings cause I ran mine dry as well.....the seal is easy to change but since you got a 2004 I would say your bike needs main bearings + seals, since the bearing play will cause the seal to go bad fast.
  10. 126LuvsChiX

    clutch problem

    yeah, I have just put in a new clutch ( discs, pressure plate, hub, and basket) and my clutch fades like a Mo-Fo. i think the plates expand, pushing the pressure plate further away from the actuator lever, causing the push rod to "reach" for the throw out bearing. a magura hydraulic clutch kit will self adjust as you ride, with no fade but its costly....I have an ASV qiuick adjust perch and I cant even get through a 10 lap moto with out stopping and adjusting the play....not good. also remember to reset your play after the bike cools....it gets real tight sometimes.
  11. 126LuvsChiX

    Barnett or Hinson?

    first hand I just pulled my clutch apart yesterday and my Barnett basket with that stupid ass steel insert is LAME!!!!! 1. the thin steel notches out like any other clutch ...it just lasts a bit longer than stock....but the steel pieces fall into youe tranny side. 2. after it notches it starts getting loose and shears apart the rivets that are holding it in place, from slapping back and forth against the aluminum parts. and yes Im missing 2 rivets and the rivet grindings are present......costing me new tranny bearings....not to mention i got to split the cases now....yay! So here's My $.02 the Hinson is good but if you really evaluate what a basket does for you its not worth the money.There's no real performance gain with a basket and at $200 + for the part..... then you gotta drill and press or go to a shop ( +$50 if you dont know how). so I always go O.E. and I'll tell ya why.....they come complete with gears, and I get mine for about $170 including shipping... as for the pressure plate and inner hub...theres your performance..Always go hinson.
  12. 126LuvsChiX

    Time for rebuild need help!!

    first off I dont know anyone (less a repair shop) that would buy an 03 stock for $3k with motor noises, so it seems you'll need to rebuild either way, then decide what to do with it. I agree that you should sell it and upgrade cause the 07 will definately handle better and there are "little" upgrades like seals and crap that solve alot of those old common problems. I got my 04 all apart right now cause of that tranny oil in the crankcase issue..... there's also the weight and handling differences wich are WAAAAAYYY better than our bikes.....jump on someones 06 at the track if they'll let you....it's noticably better than my 04. and I have 20mm offset clamps! finally, theres the chassis issues that happen over time....bearings in the linkage, internal suspension parts.....you'll never get it like new again.....and all the power in the world is worthless if the handling is poor....that combo = injury. good luck
  13. 126LuvsChiX

    Proof of Ironman Sprocket Indestructability!

    Another good sprocket to check out is Sidewinder sprockets from Krauss Racing. they make a titanium/cromoly sprocket that I had on my 2001 yz250....that bike destroyed aluminum in a week or so...but this sprocket barely had any wear after a full year of riding 4 days a week. It was lighter than steel and stronger, laser cut...etc. they also make a super strong chain that will outlast most other brands but it's a bit pricy for a chain..
  14. 126LuvsChiX

    I miss my 125SX she really hauled....

    damn, ouch it's gone....
  15. 126LuvsChiX

    left boot issues?

    thanks guys, i was afraid of that.... anyone run their shift lever x-tra high? i was thinking that may help, maybe im having to dig under, so i'll try it out. balls of feet too, ...I run it pretty much level with the peg. also, anyone know what I should polish in the tranny to Smooth shifting action? thanks again 126
×