• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

kshellrazor

Members
  • Content count

    277
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About kshellrazor

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kansas
  1. Anybody have any answers on balancing the suspension with the USD forks longer than the stockers? Did the later XR250's have longer forks than the 84s? No idea what you are asking above.
  2. Hi guys, new to this forum, but not this site. I recently was given a 84 xr250r from a friend. I have rode dirtbikes for some time, and currently own a 14 KTM 350xcf and an 06 rmz 450......so this build intrigues me....I love old bikes and this will be a bike I can tinker around with.... The first thing I did was remove the front forks. I have an old set of 06 crf250 forks laying around my shop and bought an all-balls conversion. However, the neck on the 84 and 85 is extremely short. Instead of making a new stem, I will use one from a CRF and put some spacers on the bottom of the neck. I want to keep the triple tree pinch bolts in the proper location, so don't want to make a short stem. My question is this - what in the world are you guys doing to balance the rear suspension? The modern forks are a good 4 inches longer from the axle to the bars, and the 04 came with a 17 inch rear wheel - I can upgrade to an 18 but don't think that will help as much as needed. I can't run the forks up super high because I am not going to run risers and they would not clamp well anyway. Is there a swingarm option I can run to get me more height in the rear? Will I need to fab up a new shock post and keep the geometry the same? I am not going to ride around a choppered bike, so any help would be appreciated. I am not scared of fabbing things up, but I see a lot of people have run USD conversions and looks like they did nothing with the back? How is this even possible? - do they just ride them unbalanced?
  3. White without the wheel inserts. I admire the craftsmanship, but it ruins the flow of the bike, and makes the bike look heavy, almost quad like. Just my 2 cents.
  4. Thanks guys. I only wanted to mess with the high speed stack on the base valve. Am I correct that most of your compression comes from the base valve? I'm just assuming since I see a lot of base valve recommendations and not as many mid valve. I will pull the forks - I am working on a set of 06 crf 250r forks and overall love the suspension, and just want a little softer hit on square edge bumps. I ride it in the woods, but like it fairly stiff - more like an off road setup than hs. Keep in mind this is on a 2008 two stroke ktm - and love the conversion, just looking to tweak a little. Would I be better off just lowering the oil level first, since it is close? The 08 xc shares the same fork length and axle offset of the 06 R, so I just want advice on valving, oil. Many thanks.
  5. Stupid question. Can I revalve the compression on showa tc's without removing the forks? I have done full revalves before (compression/rebound), and I always did an oil refresh. - but these forks are fresh, and just want to alter the high speed stack. Any reason not to just remove the inner cap and pull out the compression valving? Might be missing something obvious.
  6. Was able to take the bike out for the first time since the conversion......completely happy and have not even dialed in the suspension yet (no revalve, left clickers on 12 comp. 12 rebound). Can't wait to dive into the shim stacks and dial it in. - riding is fun again. First and foremost, the deflection is gone in the rocks and roots. They are still motocross forks, so they are not super plush, but I can feel what the front end is doing and where it is going. The KTM forks would deflect so bad that I would lose the feel of the front and the hit was erratic. Call me crazy, but read it on KTM talk as well. I get so much more feedback out of the front, and the bite in the front end is much better. The cornering is def. better with the Showas. They track well and it steers more precise. The showa's also seem to have less preload in the front, making the bike sit better and put a little more weight on the front. The suspension is now supremely better, but even a better upgrade is the brakes. Going to the nissin caliper with a galpher oversized rotor and stock KTM master cylinder, my brakes now feel predictable like my Honda did. Very progressive pull and more consistent feel. Have full stopping power when I need it, but much better progression from little brake to full on stopping power. Always hated the way the KTM brakes came on. Maybe I am just used to Japanese bikes, but it was well worth it for me.
  7. Got the shims made today - Instead of running on the lathe, I was able to find aluminum shim stock in .032" and .016". .032" for the lower shim, and .016" for the upper. I used a bandsaw to cut, a belt sander to debur, and some spare aluminum pipe to roll into a circular shape.
  8. Project almost complete. Have to machine triple tree shims....waiting on Honda front axle, spacers. Picking up rotor bolts for galpher oversized rotor. Nissin Caliper, Honda hub/wheel. 2006 crf250r fork legs - same length as 08xc forks, same axle offset.
  9. I got a new chain and sprockets for Christmas and don't remember running my chain so far up in the axle blocks. I initially installed it with another link, but it would have set way back in the blocks, almost at the end of adjustment. However, taking only one more link out, and it runs close to the front. I know this is a prob on the crfs, but is running a new chain this far up normal? I can put another link in it, but I really hate running it almost all the way back also. I know after break in, it will move back a bit after adjustment, but is it too far up? I prefer stability over cornering, but.....if it won't be a big deal, I will just leave it. Stock gearing 13/51 Thoughts?
  10. Conventional oil. I used conventional valvoline 10w40 on my crf250. Built it wet. Does not use a drop. Don't use synthetic until you get a good ring seal.
  11. I am really confused. I am rebuilding the top end of my 2005 crf250. I bought a new HC JC piston and a OEM cylinder from Lukes Racing with only a few hours on it, that was diamond honed and appears like new. I don't have a bore gauge so I am going by his word (heard he is reputable) that the cylinder is almost new. Said he takes them off fresh bikes with only a few hours and puts the athena big bores on them. Anyway, when I put the new JE rings in the cylinder to test the end gap, my compression ring was perfect, right around .012 inches. When I put both the oil rings in the cylinder, the end gaps were already out of spec according to the HONDA service manual. The end of the spec limit is around .028 and I would say I am closer to .030 on the new oil rings. I think the service manual says standard is between .008 and .028 on the oil rings. Should i be concerned about this? Do JE and/or Wiseco usually run higher oil ring end gaps. Does it have something to do with the forged and/or high compression pistons? Kind of pissed, because the JE piston instructions have a bunch of technical data, yet they don't state the end gap. I know I need to check the bore, but was hoping to get your opinions. I am assuming the bore is fine since my compression ring is good. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks.
  12. KJ is right. When you get new valves, springs, etc.....you will have to find the right shim to bring it to factory tolerances. To do this, I usually start with a baseline shim (something close to what came out of it), measure the clearance, then insert the correct shim. If you go this route and do a lot of racing, it makes sense to order a hot cams shim kit, instead of paying dollars for each shim, and get a kit that has every shim you will ever need. Get a service manual also, do the valve adjustments yourself, and save some money over the long haul.
  13. Motomaster just came out with a master cylinder. You can see it at motostrano.com. It is offered in 11mm or 12mm. A 16 mm is way too large for supermoto use. Also, sportbike masters are designed for dual rotors, and are usually in the 16mm range. Sure, you will have tons of bite, and no feel what so ever. A 11 or 12 will have the same bite when fully engaged, but won't throw you over the bars at initial pull.
  14. What is the advantage of running a manual tensioner?