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dcg9381

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About dcg9381

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    Texas
  1. I got a switch from Baja Designs. The switch is made by K&S. Works fine.. Cost about $25
  2. Thanks.. the switch is bad. It's tied in to the power distribution box (with the fuses) under the seat. I read a few things on ThumperTalk indicating that the pressure switches can be problematic. There is no switch up on the front brake. I did look at masters from ATVs (450cc) - but decided if I'm going that way, I'd just buy a master from a DRZ400. For Texas, the only other thing I need to add is a license plate light, which has been ordered.
  3. IT looks like one of these, so I may have found it: http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail?ItemNumber=120104 Apparently the pressure switches are known to be crappy, Baja desigs has the best reputation of the baddies out there..
  4. The switch is bad.. Anyone recognize this master or pressure switch?
  5. Rich, Thanks for the reply. I'l pull it apart and see if I can figure it out.
  6. I've got a 2003 WR450f that I just converted to Motard trim (complete with cush drive). It was plated in MI, but when you bring 'em out of state to TX, you have to go through an entire inspection process. I started to go over it yesterday prior to inspection and I found that the rear brake light wasn't working. The bulb is dual-filament and OK. I looked and there is what appears to be a factory brake pressure switch on the rear master cylinder. I pulled the factory service manual for the 2003 - it shows a dual filament bulb, 3 wires (brake, run, ground), but on the other side of that 3-wire connector, there are only two wires... Here is the diagram - rear light is section "10". I can't find anything on the factory diagram that shows a rear master based brake pressure switch... Can someone give me the scoop? 2003s have a factory rear switch or it's aftermarket?
  7. That's odd.. They did the same thing to me. I ordered a 48T and they sent a 51T. The vendor (MountainPeak) corrected it and sent me a new sprocket (no charge) I just had to send the old one back. I ended up keeping both. The cost for an extra sprocket was $25. Now the bad news: My front wheel was off center, enough that it would create significant vibration in the front bars. The wheel was out of round, and could easily be observed by spinning it on a stand. I sent a video of the wheel to MountainPeak. They requested that I return the wheel to Warp9. Warp9 has had it for about 8 days, I haven't heard a peep from them yet.. I just sent 'em an email. The front wheel was street use only (commuter) - under 200 miles. EDIT: talked to warp9, the hub was "off" somehow - they're respoking and retruing the wheel, going to get it back to me... No charge on return shipping. Seem to be pretty good about resolving issues - the majority of the delay was me shipping them a wheel with a tire on it.
  8. Anyone else running these? Fit/finish/balance comments?
  9. #1 - I agree with this, although others are indicating that you could remove the pads and slide it in place. #2 - I can get mine on w/o removing the rear disc protector.
  10. Sorry, I meant Trail Tech Vapor Speedometer. www.motosport.com has it for $109. You want the one that threads in to the top of the radiator (temp sensor) the alternative is cutting a radiator hose and putting the sensor in-line. Gearing with 16/51 is still too low for over 55mph. I'm hitting 6500 on the highway. I'll try 16/47.
  11. I asked that of the vendor, haven't gotten a response on it yet. I also asked if he'd seen *any* other rotor problems - the answer was "no". Resolution is that Warp9 is sending me a new rotor for free, no charge. I should also mention that this could have been my doing - and I wasn't expecting a free rotor. It's fairly challenging to get the front caliper on the rotor AND I had loosened one of the rotor mount points up to install the magnetic bolt for my Vexor. Rotors should be tightened in a cross-pattern, it could be that I impacted the rotor when I didn't loosen and retighten correctly.
  12. Mine are on. A few issues, they arrived with a 51T sprocket instead of the 48T that I ordered. Matt shipped me a new sprocket and provided a pre-paid label for the original. I ended up keeping both (add $25). The front wheel is challenging to get the caliper on.. it can be done, but it's real close, I don't doubt that people had to disassemble. Rear bearing/spacers/seals - tight, I notices this too, the spacers don't want to turn on the seal. No problems once on there, but it was a bit odd. The only issue I've had with mine is that I've got one heck of a warp on the front rotor after very minor riding. Caliper isn't binding.. Now I did pull one of the bolts/nuts off the rotor when looking to add in my mag pickup for the Vapor speedo... I wonder if the rotor is sensitive to being torqued in the right order.... I get a lot of thumbs up on it... Lots of people don't know what it is..
  13. Asking for advice on tires is like discussing politics. What are your "needs" for the tires? If you need a high mileage tire, that's an entirely different recommendation set than someone wanting to actually have a short distance, high lean angle motard...
  14. I have a 2001 E model, with a larger fuel tank, full exhaust, and a rack. I have a 44 mile round trip commute. I've tried using the E to commute - it's street legal, but the gearing and knobbies are prohibitive for street riding. The gearing is really bad for the highway. I've ordered a set of Warp9 wheels, sport touring tires, and a 16T front sprocket (driven) to get the thing to do better on the street. I own an ST1100 and a Hayabusa also - both are very good touring / sport-touring bikes... I *love* the grunt and weight of the DRZ...
  15. I've owned 2001 CR250, ridden the WR450, YZ427. I own a 2001 DRZ-400E. The DRZ is significantly less punchy than the WR450 or YZ427. It has more power than the CR250R, but it also weighs a bit more. It's capable of cruising on the road without too much trouble, but you may want to address gearing for your style of riding. I haven't owned it long enough to know about how well the valve adjustment will hold up (I bought it a few months ago). Part of it is going to be how hard it is used. I'm expecting to require less work than the highly tweeked 4-strokes, but it's fairly close.