WRF Mad

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About WRF Mad

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    TT Newbie

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    Australia
  1. Woo Hooo. Cheers DROB. TT store hear I come!
  2. G'day fellow dirtbikers, I will be in Las Vegas from Saturday through Thursday on a work related mission. Don't have a lot of spare time but want to spend some aussie dollars on some dirt bike related booty (helmet, graphics, plastics etc) - helluva lot cheaper over there. Can anyone advise where in Las Vegas I need to go to get the lot? And.... on the off chance anyone's got a spare bike, I'd love dearly to get out with some of you guys for a bit of desert riding - I'll bring my riding gear over. This Sunday coming will be the only day I could do it. Thanks in advance guys Dave
  3. Just a quick one Burned... finally got rid of the stock muffler on my '05 wr250f and put a DEP on . I also have the snorkel removed and extra holes in the side of the airbox. I ride mostly at 100 to 1000ft and, at this time of year, 80 to 95 deg farenheight. I was running way too lean with stock 168 mj so have gone up to 172 mj and dropped needle clip down to 5th notch from stock 4th notch. Plug doesn't look too bad now but the bike feels like things good be running a bit sweeter especially at lower revs. What do you or anyone else suggest?? Have I done the right thing lifting the needle, or should I have adjusted the mixture screw? Do I need to change the pilot jet as well? etc etc Thanks a heap in advance for any feedback. Dave
  4. If the back end is kicking up and hitting you in the ass I'd say try increasing your rebound dampening. Had a similar thing happening on my bike, not so much on bigger jumps but more on those little short faced small ones. Increasing the rebound dampening made a heap of difference. Have since replaced springs and valves with race tech stuff to better suit my 215lb bulk and now she is just sweet. Best of Luck Dave
  5. Replaced stock D928 rear with a Millville about 300 miles ago and am absolutely wrapped with it. I'm riding mainly in intermediate terrain so have it mounted as such. It is showing about 35% wear to date with no chunking at all. It hooks up really well compared to the Dunlop and inspires confidence in controlled slides. Give 'em a go I don't think you'll be disappointed and let's face it - the price is right.
  6. G'day Steve, mate of mine recently bought a Staintune for his '05 TTR250 and reckons it has boosted power noticably... so he's a fan. He got it at Ballards for around $600. Haven't worried about a pipe on my '05 WR250 because, after getting rid of the baffle and getting more air in through airbox mods, I'm more than happy for the sort of single track stuff we do. Happy Trails, Dave
  7. I have also posted this in the suspension forum so sorry those who see it twice. I have an '05 WRF250 with stock suspenders. I am around 100kg (220lb) geared up and mainly ride sandstone trails which tend to range from rocky to deepish sand and with numerous erosion berms which provide me with plenty of airtime. Obviously gotta get upgraded springs all round, as I've seriously bottomed out one too many times and front wheel tends to wash out a bit on tight turns and the sand can be a problem, but I've had varying reports on whether a revalve is also neccessary... one suspension mob has told me that the '05 valves are fine for this type of riding and that I will only need my shims looked at . What do any of you guys who know a thing or two about suspension reckon on the suitability of the stock valves and will reshimming fix the probs? Thanks in advance for any advice... Happy trails. __________________ WR 250F - There is no alternative!
  8. I have an '05 WRF250 with stock suspenders. I am around 100kg (220lb) geared up and mainly ride sandstone trails which tend to range from rocky to deepish sand and with numerous erosion berms which provide me with plenty of airtime . Obviously gotta get upgraded springs all round, as I've seriously bottomed out one too many times and front wheel tends to wash out a bit on tight turns, but I've had varying reports on whether a revalve is also neccessary... one suspension mob has told me that the '05 valves are fine for this type of riding and that I will only need my shims looked at What do any of you guys who know a thing or two about suspension reckon on the suitability of the stock valves and will reshimming fix the probs? Thanks in advance for any advice... Happy trails.
  9. I have just replaced my stock ('05) Dunlop D908 130/90/18 with a Kenda Milville 110/100/18. I was actually after the 120/100/18 but the guy at the shop convinced me that these were more suited to the big bore bikes. Was he right? Will I notice any loss of traction? Will it be looser or tighter in the back end? I'm hanging out to try it on the weekend but am hoping I can put my mind at ease till then. The tread pattern certainly looks the goods for the single track/ trail stuff I love. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
  10. Thanks guys, but I do understand the dry sump concept and the need to run the bike for a few minutes before checking. However I thought it would take more than a couple of hours to drain from the frame into the motor - but mainly wondering, if it has drained from the frame why can't I get a reading by dipping in through the filler cap on the crankcase ie where does the oil drain to?
  11. G'day All, First time poster so please bear with me. I'm the proud and extremely happy owner of an '05 WRF250 however, have a major concern at the moment. I had the bike out on the weekend for about 6 hrs hard riding over 2 days where I had a couple of dumps nothing serious - just washouts with grazed barkbusters and a couple of extra scratches the only apparent damage. When I finished on the second day I couldn't get neutral and, with the clutch pulled in, the bike was still wanted to move forward. At home I pulled the dipstick and found no oil on it however, I put this down to the fact I had trailered the bike 50 odd km's and the oil had probably sunk out of the tank into the motor. I used some wire to dip into the main filler cap but again this came up dry. I only changed the oil the previous weekend and there is no evidence of leaks so my question is - where has my oil gone? Is there some other check I could be doing to make sure everything is OK before I start it again? Thanks in advance for any advice.