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bikepilot1

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About bikepilot1

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    Virginia
  1. bikepilot1

    KX100 Enduro Project "KDX100"

    Nice work! I built up a similar KX100 for woods work, but don't have a lighting coil yet. It'll never pull well at low rpms, just learn to rev it - works great. I tried a few pipes, stock is best for all-around power. The bill's has a sweet mid-top hit, but you loose a little down low and its a touch harder to ride. Not the thing for a n00b in tight woods. I also made a horizontal divider for the carb, sorta like a "power now" device. It made a modest improvement in reducing the bog when you give it way too much throttle at low rpms. My wife's engine is stroked though so don't know how much the tuning aspects transfer to a stocker. I have the same flywheel weight - it definitely makes the motor more tractable. The suspension in stock form is good for a 80-100lbs rider on the top end. Re-springing works wonders if you are over that. I'm 160lbs and the KX100 works great for me in the tight woods now (its my wife's bike). The stiffer springs made it dramatically plusher over roots and rocks as it stays up in the travel. It also doesn't bottom out easily. I commend the efforts to keep it quiet - noise is the biggest destroyer of our riding areas. Keep it quiet and keep us riding
  2. bikepilot1

    Riding in Baja?

    Gear it tall as a lot of baja is high speed dirt roads, otherwise it should be just fine. I haven't ridden a CRF in baja, but have spent a couple of weeks riding around on XRs and to be honest if I were choosing a CRF I'd take the R over the X for the lighter weight as I've no need for an e-start (I've no issues kicking my 650R, much less my CRF450R). If you do a huge amount down there you might want to get the suspension valved to suit as the MX valving is a bit stiff and you may eventually need to replace the Ti valves with something more durable. have fun, baja is awesome!
  3. bikepilot1

    400 Swing arm on 600R

    I think the 400 swinger slots over the engine case, using it as part of the mount while the 600 swinger is solid across the front and doesn't touch the engine case. Seems that'd make the swap a bit complicated. FYI '96 was the first year for the 400, so you won't find any early '90s 400s. No idea about the headers, but I'd be surprised if they were a direct bolt-on.
  4. I'm looking at putting together a last minute V2R effort. I found an XR650R here in VA that would be perfect and need to get it and myself out west (ideally San Diego where I'll meet up with a friend who's doing the race). Anyone headed out with room for an extra bike? If not, anyone want me to haul bikes out? I have a F250 and 20' enclosed trailer, but the fuel cost to get just one bike out there are pretty crazy. If I could take 3+ bikes out and share fuel costs it'd start to look pretty reasonable. If interested PM me, I'm scrambling to put this together and might not check e-mail/forums as quickly as would be ideal. Me, the bike and truck are all in Northern VA at the moment. The race starts on the 19th so I'd need to be out there at least a couple of days prior. I haven't been super active here on TT, but am on adventure rider and tlzone a lot under "bikepilot" Thanks! Josh
  5. bikepilot1

    xr 650r shock rebuild

    I know this is kinda old and hope you've got it sorted, but in case not, most any local bike shop should have a nitrogen tank and be able to fill it. Usually ranges from free to $15. Also, many car dealers have nitrogen, I wanna say that all BMW dealers now use it when they fill cage tires. Better bicycle shops will also have it for rebuilding bicycle shocks.
  6. bikepilot1

    need more bottom end

    A FFW will make exactly zero difference on the power curve or power produced. All it does is make the engine change rpms slightly more slowly by increasing rotating mass. This can be useful for finding a bit more traction in slick situations and makes the motor a little more difficult to stall. Also, you have the gearing change backwards. Increasing the leverage the motor has over the rear wheel will (at least for some people) make it feel like the bike has more low end power (but of course actual power is unchanged). To do this you'd need a larger rear sprocket or smaller front sprocket. I've actually gone the other direction on my '01 CR. I found that stock gearing was a bit short and that I was tapped out in 5th on some longer straights on some MX tracks and first was unusable as it just spun too much. With taller gearing I don't have to shift as often and I don't run out of gearing on the longer straights anymore.
  7. bikepilot1

    2000 kx 250

    I'd guess around $1,500. The bigbore could be a plus if it was done by a reputable shop and then replated (i.e. not a steel sleeve).
  8. bikepilot1

    loose foot pegs

    Usually everything is worn a bit - the pins, the pegs and the frame (not just the pin/hole, but also the flat parts that rub). The easiest thing is probably to get a set of Fastway pegs or similar that are adjustable and just use the adjustment to compensate for frame wear. Alternatively, you could weld and re-machine the frame or perhaps even grind the peg mounts off and install pegs and peg mounts from a CR or some other aluminum framed bike.
  9. bikepilot1

    oil change help?

    The manual details the proper way to do it quite nicely. I can't remember exactly, but I just do whatever it says - works for me.
  10. bikepilot1

    anyone put a 18" off a cr500 on there 250?

    Its easier than building a bicycle wheel if that's of any help. You can't just start out by cranking the first spoke down to torque as they've gotta be done evenly - you work your way around the wheel incrementally, keeping an eye on true as you go. Really not that hard and its something you need to know anyway as wheels need to be trued and re-tensioned every so often anyway. For practice, you could find an old bicycle wheel for free somewhere I'm sure and take it apart then put it back together.
  11. bikepilot1

    2010 TE 250 Review

    Interesting. Even shorter stroke than the CRF250R - I wonder if there's any room in there for a stroker crank... Still a 6-speed gearbox?
  12. bikepilot1

    xr 400 swing arm in to xr 600

    IIRC the XR400 swinger is open at the front (engine cases fit between the two front ears of the swinger) while the XR600 swinger is solid across the front (engine not really a stressed member, at least not as much).
  13. bikepilot1

    anyone put a 18" off a cr500 on there 250?

    yep, 250x is an 18" as well (just a touch narrower than the 450x iirc). Probably better off just buying an 18" excel rim and spoke kit and lacing it up to your hub though.
  14. bikepilot1

    '90 DR350s Fuel Injection Conversion

    I suspect that in a few years CRF250R fuel injection parts will be floating around and will probably be ideal for such projects as these:) There are many street bike TB's that don't use the goofy CV bits - the only ones that did are the first generation yamaha FI systems to my knowledge. Finding one that's small enough to work well with the small port on the DR head might take a bit of digging around - most nowdays are in the 40mm range, even on 600cc I4's - workable I'm sure but perhaps a bit larger than ideal. Many now use secondary butterflies which perform the same basic function as a CV diaphram, but are controlled by a the computer via a stepper motor. The bikes work fine with these removed and many folks do exactly that. I know older GSXR600s used 38mm TB's as did the F4i. Crusiers tend to have much smaller TB's, for example a 750 shadow uses a single 34mm TB IIRC. The FI bits off a WR250R might also work well (also 38mm I think).
  15. bikepilot1

    Tire Size Question

    Just use the smallest 18" you can find - that will typically be 100/90/18 or 100/100/18. It won't affect handling too much and hopefully the swing-arm has enough clearance to work with it. There are lots of options and no sense recommending a specific tire without knowing what sort of terrain you are riding, whether you need to be DOT approved and all that sort of thing.
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