Kwik Kwak

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About Kwik Kwak

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    California
  1. Thanks for the info. For $100 those might well be worth it.
  2. I would go with the 0.20mm ~ 0.25mm gap as per the Owners manual. I'm sure the 0.17mm ~ 0.22mm printed in the service manual is a carry over mistake from the KX450F Service manual. The KX450F has titanium Exhaust Valves so the gap can be smaller, at least that's my experience when comparing gaps between Titanium and Steel Valves.
  3. John cleaning the screen was discussed in this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=561338 Yes you need to pull the flywheel. The flywheel puller is different than the puller for the KX450F. I've cleaned my screen twice, once a few rides after I got the bike. Couple of small snakes no big deal. Second time a year later and it was still pretty clean. Pictures in the above thread including Motion Pro part no. for the flywheel puller. My experience is the screens not to dirty and not as bad as some of the KX450F screens that where posted.
  4. That would be my understanding.
  5. Shims don't enlarge. Valve clearance closes up because either the valve wears against the valve seat causing wear to either or both surfaces hence the valve moves further up into the head causing the valve gap to close up. Or the valve stem stretches also causing the valve gap to close up. Tight valves as well as causing the problems you mention can also cause the valves to burn, therefore it's best to keep the gaps in the recommended range. I have a Hot Cams Shim Kit which saves running around buying shims whenever I do a valve adjustment.
  6. What you are looking at in that link is just the Indicator Dash, you would have to buy the Vapor/Vector Computer in addition to the Dash. That's why it's only $40. I tried plugging in the stock pick up sensor to an aftermarket computer, it didn't work. Not sure why but the stock sensor has 3 wires instead of the aftermarket 2. Also the wiring plug (which doesn't look the same to me) on the Dash plugs into things like high beam/indicators etc. which is more of a Dual Sport Set-up and I doubt the KLX has any of those connections/connectors and even if it did then they wouldn't be compatible with the TrailTech Dash. But eh I could be wrong.
  7. $28.50 from Motion Pro link -> Motion Pro Puller 08-0425
  8. There is a thread on TT in this forum showing how to check the Oil Screen, it involves removing the Flywheel and you need a flywheel puller that is different from a KX450 Flywheel Puller. Flywheel weight difference?? I did this last year shortly after I got the bike to check the oil screen, pictures of the oil screen in the above thread. It was pretty clean then. After 1.5 seasons of Enduro's I was getting paranoid about the condition of the screen so I checked it again a few weeks ago. Again the screen was pretty clean with only one silicon snake and some minor debris. Here's what it looked like.
  9. Good luck with that! I know somebody that can get a KLX street legal but he needs the bike BEFORE it's ever been registered. Even then it sounds a bit shifty the DMV may catch up with you and take away the street reg. they have been doing that to street registered Red Sticker bikes and some Husky's. I got my old WR for street legal duty. Fools Gold Enduro...
  10. So what's changed other than the seat going all black (kind of like the green/black of the '08 seat although it needs a bit more cleaning than just black) and the price being jacked up $200? Doesn't even have black rims which is what I'd thought was a certain upgrade. Edit: Looks like the side cases are grey now instead of brown and check out the curb weight 277.7lbs!
  11. John, stock needles here in California are non-adjustable they only have one slot. What is the stock needle in Australia? Ours are stamped NLZU near the top by the clip. Currently I'm running 45 Pilot Jet, 155 Main Jet, NCVR Needle (Stock on KX450 here) at clip 3 from top. I have the ProMoto Insert. This setting works well but at higher altitude (say 4,500 ft+) I loose idle. The plug colour is good and no noticeable misfires or bad behaviour. It does pull strong from the bottom. I've read that Team Green recommended settings are 48pj, 140mj, OBEKS Needle at Clip Position 3 and 2.5 Turns out on Fuel Screw. I've bought the OBEKS needle but haven't tried it yet as my set up works well enough so far.
  12. Well sounds odd, should work does sound like carb problem but here is a list of way out stuff that I've had problems with (not necessarily on the KLX). 1) Check for leaks around the carb i.e. rubber boot connection carb to engine. With engine running spray carb cleaner on boot and note if this changes engine rpm. Could be an inlet leak. Clamps tight? 2) Check the removable plate on the slide in the carb, check that it's not upside down, I think the hole in the plate needs to be at the bottom of the slide. 3) Check valve clearance. 4) Check the spark plug is screwed in sufficiently and condition. Try replacing it anyway, might have a cracked core that gives a weak spark. 5) Oil in the engine? 6) I've had blocked pilot jets that wont blow through or only partially clear. Ended up having to replace the jet. Can you see clearly through it? 7) Although you said that the connectors are dry, this problem is very similar to when my connector got water logged, the main connector coming up from the flywheel behind the left radiator. Check the wires in this connector for any loose ones. Open up the connector and make sure no tabs are bent over etc. 8) Make sure sufficient fuel is flowing to the carb. Ok I know it's a bit out there but if you've tried the obvious you kind off have to start looking at the crazy stuff. Hope this helps.
  13. NGK doesn't list an Iridium plug alternative for this plug.
  14. ronayers.com sells OEM Kawasaki parts (as well as the other big 3) at great prices and they have online microfiche for the KLX450R.
  15. My stock muffler with the ProMoto Insert tested at about 89db and I think somebody else on here got a similar result.