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About waynus

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  1. waynus

    MX tech front fork alignment

    I can't take credit for this but... I like to set the height of the left hand fork, place the axle in it and then raise or lower the right hand fork until the axle slips easily into it. This way the forks will be equal in height... Then I use Shockdoc's method to get them parallel... Then I go for a ride and fall off
  2. waynus

    Rear tire, 110 or 120??

    I recently bought a Dunlop 756 which I was told comes no larger than a 110. After always running 120 wide Dunlop 952's, I'm keen to try it. BTW, the manual says us Aussies are meant to run a 130 wide. I, unlike Greg, am not ready to come out just yet
  3. waynus

    WR450 '06 Engine durability

    I would say that "after every race" would mean competition use (maximum power). Just guessing but 1000km on sealed roads would seem ok. "As required"... determined by riding conditions.
  4. waynus

    WR450 '06 Engine durability

    They say after every race, or as required or 1000km. Here's a link to an independent test of several types of filter. Check out the Unifilter. http://home.stny.rr.com/jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm For peace of mind, unless it's a damp ride (but not raining), I'll continue to change mine after every ride. (I wash 4 at a time, oil them and put them away till required).
  5. waynus

    WR450 '06 Engine durability

    I'm not sure if you understand the concept of the oiled foam filter. The foam is merely the medium that holds the oil and the oil is the thing that holds the dust. When the oil can hold no more dust, then dust will pass through the filter. You lessen this risk by washing and oiling the filter after a dusty ride.
  6. waynus

    Horn Mount?

    There's a coupla spare lugs on the frame behind the kickstart. I mounted mine there
  7. waynus

    Twin Air vs K&N

    K & N are great..... if you want to dust your motor
  8. waynus

    Nitrogen Pressures - Details

    I agree Dave that the most noticeable effect is at full compression. This may not be due to the gaseous properties but more to do with linkages but nevertheless, it is true. Throughout the rest of the stroke, an increase in pressure would merely raise the ride height probably no more than 1mm don't you think? BTW, thanks for an interesting topic
  9. It does seem as though the dust would get pulled into the bowl using the choke as JD says as it would under normal circumstances as witnessed by motors dying when crossing streams. Another source however must come from the petrol tank itself which fills with dusty air as fuel is being depleted...as well as the dust that gets through the air filter imo
  10. waynus

    Nitrogen Pressures - Details

    He says it's measured at the axle. To my understanding, a difference of 50psi means that the bike is capable of holding an extra 3kg or 9kg when the shock is fully compressed. This would seem negligible but it does highlight the need to make sure the bladder is inflated properly as the difference between 0psi and 150psi would mean an extra 27kg capability for those big jumps. It may even mean that the ride is more "cushioned" as the bike will be riding on partly a gas spring
  11. waynus

    Nitrogen Pressures - Details

    No... thank you Dave for going to the trouble of testing and posting
  12. waynus

    Nitrogen Pressures - Details

    Interesting stuff Dave. I am assuming you used a torque wrench on the rear axle nut? As you say, it's like the air in the forks as the pressure doesn't increase substantially until fully compressed Are you able to put this into layman's terms e.g. At mid stroke, if the N2 pressure was raised from 150 to 200psi, the downward pressure is increased by 9ft/lb, would this be like an increase in spring pressure to accommodate say a 10lb heavier rider or is it negligible? I'm just having difficulty trying to relate torque settings to increased spring rates (which is basically what raising the N2 pressure is doing) Perhaps a set of scales and a jack under the rear axle?
  13. waynus

    Confused DRZ-400 rider needs help

    I had the opportunity to ride 2 DRZ's in the weekend just past. The first one had modified suspension and was very tall. The front suspension felt superior to the stock WR. It was compliant and reassuring. The backend didn't feel as good as the WR. The second was a stocker. Still capable but not as confidence inspiring as the modified DRZ. The motors were totally different to the WR. The WR has grin factor. It winds out like a 2 stroke whereas the DR's seem to have it all down low which is good for climbing hills and quick getaways. The WR has a lower seat height and is easier to get on for those of us under 6ft. The DR is a very capable bike for the price and has a good reputation for longevity with less maintenance. It has a nice soft seat which is just as well, cos you can't help but sit down all the time. They are not a standing bike unless you get very high risers. The WR however also has proven longevity considering it's performance. Sort out the suspension on a WR and you have a fantastic bike that will give many years of service. WR for me
  14. waynus

    lower triple clamp disassembly from rod

    I think you'll find the shaft is alloy as well (put a magnet on it). If you were to heat it in the oven, the alloy shaft would expand making the bearing an even tighter fit (it doesn't expand as much). Sorry, I don't know of any easy way but freezing the whole thing might work cos the alloy shaft should shrink more than the metal bearing, enabling you to prise it off. Never tried it myself, but I'm willing to let you have a go.