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rooster wrooster

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About rooster wrooster

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  1. I have it and LOVE it. Although I didn't like it so much until I had it set up correctly. The two biggest things to do is to make sure you have bled all of the air from the brake line and that you adjust the actuator screw on the lever to the point of almost creating brake drag. That is where the pull on the lever will feel pretty much the same as the front brake. My only complaint is the price. It seems kind of pricey for what it is. After some research it looks like you could build your own for 1/3 to 1/2 the cost. The only minor annoyance I have with it is that it is difficult to lock the rear wheel using only 1 finger on the brake. It can be done but you have to pull extremely hard. It would work better and give an easier 1 finger pull if your finger was farther away from the fulcrum point. I have the lever in towards the center of the bike as far as it can go and it still is not quite enough. But like I said it is only a minor annoyance. You can easily lock the rear wheel with 2 or more fingers. The good aspects of having a LHRB far outweighs the bad imo.
  2. I was going to change the coolant from 70/30 prestone lowtox/distilled water to 100% lowtox for better freeze protection for the winter. After some reading I find out that it contains silicates. After more reading it looks like silicates are not good for impellers and seals. Here is the post from 2004 talking about silicates in lowtox: This is the link to that post: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165936&highlight=coolant It looks like amsoil sells a low silicate propylene glycol coolant. The question is how much silicate is safe to use in the coolant. If the answer is none then does anyone know of any propylene glycol coolant that is silicate free besides engine ice?
  3. It could be your front wheel bearings going bad. Thats what mine did. Couldn't really notice it going slow but the faster you go the worse it gets.
  4. You can download the 99 yz400 manual from here: http://www.yamahaownershandbook.com.au/index.php
  5. I see that you can use a 125's rear but can you also use them for the front of 400/426/450?
  6. You need to experiment. My riding buddies have a yz400 and wr400 that they almost always start on first kick. When I first got my '06 450 I kicked it for about 30-45 minutes straight without it starting. The manual says not to twist the throttle so I didn't. I have gradually added more priming twists until it now almost always starts on the first kick. With 3 twists it starts in 6-10 kicks. With 6 twists it starts first kick. You just need to get to know your bike.
  7. I rode my brothers 400 before I got my 06'450. I was very impressed. The thrill factor was off the scale. I remember riding it through a muddy cornfield holding on for dear life, barely able to keep the front wheel down but having a grin from ear to ear. I was going to buy that exact bike but after finding this website I decided to get a newer bike. After I got it we did some straight line drag racing for about 1/4 mile and although I beat him every time the 400 still put up a good showing. I only beat him by 5-10 bike lengths. Now on a track it is a different story. Its more about the riders skill level. At the time he was a little better than me and was beating me on my 450. (lets keep that part to ourselves)
  8. I've changed about 5 tires on my motorcycles now and the hardest part is getting the rim into the tire, even with a second set of hands. I change it the way it is demonstrated in the transworld motorcross video tutorial. A tire spreader would make the job a lot easier, either a home made one or manufactured. I don't have an easy way to heat the tire so that is not an option. I found this It's $75 and looks like you have to manually spread the tire which is ok but I can't tell if there is some way to hold it in the spread position, it doesn't give many details with the product information. If you use a spreader let me know how it works for you.
  9. '04 silverado 5.3L 2wd crew cab. Old driving habits= 17-18 mpg, (out accelerate everyone around you and drive 5 miles over the speed limit) New driving habits= 20-21mpg, (1200-1500 rpms on acceleration and drive 5 miles under the speed limit) You know its gotten pretty bad when your granddad asks why your driving so slow.
  10. Don't rev it at stop lights, your just adding more heat. You need air flowing over your radiator to dissipate heat.
  11. I'll be jumping on the scotts bandwagon as soon as the rest of my paper filters are gone. My only concern is how do you verify that you have truly cleaned the filter?
  12. Too funny. Your the one who gave me the idea in the first place Gray.
  13. That is my recipe as well. With the addition of the 1.6 bar cap I have not boiled over once since I started using that combination.
  14. You can get propylene glycol antifreeze from Walmart for about $11/gallon, it's called Lowtox and is made by Prestone. You could also throw a few capfuls per gallon of water wetter in there, its made by Redzone. It increases the heat transfer between the metal and the fluid by lowering the surface tension of the fluid. Its about $10/pint. I Would also suggest getting a higher pressure radiator cap, 1.6 Bar. It increases the boiling point of the radiator fluid. You can get one from pitposse.com for $20.
  15. I checked out the synergy website because I might get a set for my '06. They mentioned a set a "pre-wipers" that come with the seals. Do you think these actually improve the performance of the seals? http://www.synergyseals.com/