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Lalo

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About Lalo

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Chile
  • Interests
    Of course enduro riding, sports & sharing with my family
  1. .Yes, thanks to your feedback here in the forum I kind of practice a mind reset and re-start. I shouldn't have gone riding before doing basic set up, moreover being already an old pilot. With regards to riding position, let me tell you that being 5ft 8in and 75 kg I had great five experiece racing enduros on my hopped-up CRF 250x, however, although I remember feeling comfortable and safe with its ergonomics, I must put in the equation that I fitted the bike with Pro-Taper KX hi bar...Should the use of such a tall may had had a positive effect in riding position so as I never felt cramped. If this is right, then it should also work on the KTM. I mention feeling cramped in the KTM trying to explain how the bike feels when it comes to ride the standing and doing downhills, my feet just stick to the pegs preventing me to move around, nor moving weight backwards for counterbancing force of gravity pushing you out of the bike. What do you thing of lowering footpegs, in which way it improves (or not) balance on the bike, flickability and so forth. Footpegz, are they a good accessory or just good marketing. Regards, Eduardo
  2. .I believe you are right, actually there should be room for improvement by working through sag settings. I'll shift the bars forward in search of more balance & less effort in the standing position, whilst the bike may loose some cornering capability. Believe me, I really have to position the boot before going down a steep slope, as once you get in it takes a great deal of effort to move the the feet or change weight balance. Have an opinion for results of lowering footpegs some 10-15mm ? or you'd rather go for taller bars instead. Thank you.
  3. I took a new 250 XC out of the crate and just went riding, based in the belief that the bike does comes tunned for the average rider (that's me! with 170-185 lbs, 5ft 8in). As such I understand spring rates are ok as well as sag measures. I'm an intermediate + rider, fast & experienced enough to say the shock is dangerous and unpredictable, definitely on the harsh side. Fork is OK. My previous ride was a CRF 250X. I've already throughly worked the clikers, yet not finding a good spot. I've put some seven hours on it and I can say I feel very dissapointed with performance, but also disorientated on how to come up with a solution and not having to visit a tuner house (ratetech and RG3 in Chile, not sure with which to go in the end I'm obligued to). Whatever square edge obstacle I hit, It steals valuable strengh to hold up (rock gardens = nighmare). Not to mention the bike deflects from desired course. Braking action is strong but the front dives and the back kicks; this is worse going steep donwards, the real wheels flies unweighted, I fear of a bent over. Yes, going fast or very fast works of kind of a solution. Rear side can't go straight on bumpy sections. Finally, this week I'll send the bike for maintenance and do sag measures; if I find out that race sag is near 90 rather than 110mm, then there is hope that the correct sag will cure the problem. One side question, I'm not tall but still feel cramped on the standing position compared to previous honda 250 CRF ¿ would lower pivot pegz bring comfort ?; on downhills the force of gravity concentrates on my feet stronger than in the bar, then I cannot slide back the boot for more comfort & balance. Best regards
  4. Any advise will be apreciated. I've done all the CCC mods to my 2005 X, except in what regards to exhaust, for which I changed the head pipe and muffler with a costly CRD ISDE legal system. The pipe is similar to the R model and the muffler is stealth but claimed to enhance bottom to mid in some 5-10%...I'm now quite suspicious about such performamance representation. In addtion, I've installed power now plus and 51/13 gearing (+3.5%). I kept the pink wire stock, as I believe some extra 1000 RPM aren't worth the risk of hammering the valves in excess. Eventhough the bike feels a bit faster than stock, I am disappointed with overall results; a great deal of money in exchange for just very little more muscle. As a matter of fact, I rode an X with just the air box and jetting mods and with an FMF factory 4.1, and I can tell you that such bike is a genuine ISDE weapon (of course it feels faster than mine). Now I believe I'm going to go back to the stock muffler with drilling and diffuser removed, as it appears that the costly mods I've done are of little help if I don't let the engine actually flow freely through the exhaust. Does anyone has something to say to prevent me of becoming a polluter (still no noise restrictions in my country, I don't need to care, nor of feeling gilty), maybe it's just that this bloody french CRD stealth exhaust is a failure. Do send your opinions, I really want to change this bike's response & output in accordance to the money and time spent on it. Regards, Eduardo Jofré Chile
  5. Thank you, I appreciate the feedback. I'll take your recommendation and re-pack. But, would you mention something reasonable to do with the silencer, to somehow increase the flow/power output a bit. Remember this silencer IS stealth (<92db or less), so a little of a increase in noise still keeps me (by far) within the non noise contaminating crowd. Saludos amigos, Eduardo Jofré LALO
  6. Thanks guys for the input. 1.- I'll first work in the fork tubes by 3mm increases; when I find a good improvement I'll do the sag again (95-100mm for me). I hope the increased fork height wouldn't bring a significant tendency to head shake. Being a 160 lb. rider I beleive stock spring should do fine; do you ? 2.- What about turning the bar mounts; this would put the bars some 6mm foward compared to stock (now 3mm above stock). What changes would you anticipate ?. 3.- The fastway will be the way to go, if fine tuning with the availabe stuff doesn't bring an improvent in corrner traction under speed. Saludos amigos y gracias, Eduardo Jofré
  7. Thanks guys for the input. 1.- I'll first work in the fork tubes by 3mm increases; when I find a good improvement I'll do the sag (95-100mm for me). I hope the increased fork height wouldn't bring a significant tendency to head shake. 2.- I usually maintain 13-15 lbs. depending on soil conditions. Now it is summer down here and the tracks are hard packed through out; in many spots and turns you can find some 1 inch of fine dust. I currently run 13-14 psi and cannot go lower because there are rocks and some sections of the tracks are quite fast. 3.- What about turning the bar mounts; this would put the bars some 6mm foward compared to stock (now 3mm above stock). Would you anticipate changes ?. Saludos amigos, Eduardo Jofré CHILE
  8. Although my bike is a 05' CRF 250X with R mods. in the engine dept., I would like to get your opinions on this handling only issue. Bike has good handling manners, but IMO corner speed is a weak point because sometimes the bike tends to loose traction in the front. I'll really appreciate your approachs on this subject. Some data: 1.- I'm a 1.74 mt. rider, 160 lb. The bike is fitted with ProTaper KX high and 1.64'' BRP bar mounts with 3mm offset, resulting in some 0.95'' of bars height increase. I've found this position to be more comfortable, specially when ridong in standing position, and IMO the overall handling is better than stock height. 2.- Fork tubes height with respect to top of the upper triple clamp is 4mm (the bike came with 2mm). I'm considering the following mods. to improve cornering traits and speed: A) to turn the bar mount to the forward position, which would result in 6mm offset compared to stock. to increase fork tube height of point 2 above, to 10mm. Would you agree with these mods. or I'm shooting in a different direction. Of course it would be possible spend $ 300 in 22mm offset triple clamps to improve a handling level that is not bad at all; maybe it wouldn't be of much help, would it be??. The idea is to use what I have at hand. Regards, Eduardo Jofre CHILE
  9. Saludos Tricky, if you just think about the bike then the post could be for CRF forum only, but my questions is aimed to those with motocross experience, provided I race ISDE events which, to some extent, have some similarities to MX track. In addition, the question is technical and deals with set up of the bike for the conditions and demands that are actually found in the MX track. Still hope you can provide a contribution to help clarify the matter I posted. Eduardo Jofré CHILE
  10. My 05 CRF 250X is fitted with a complete CRD exhaust system. The head pipe is similar to that of the R model and the silencer is designed for racing but complies with the 92 db or less noise regulation required for FIM events. The systems is alleged to produce gains of 5-10% overall. The bike is jetted for more fuel flow (142,42) and the airbox is opened on top. Bike runs stronger than stockers. It`s been some 10 month of training and racing so, by the books, it's time to repack the silencer. But being the CRD kind of restricted compared to motocross silencers, I'm planning not to repack and leave as it is. Noise is not an issue because the construction itself makes the unit rather quiet. The reason for leaving as it is, is because I'd like to have more power. The question is, would passing on the repacking result in any kind od trade off; would not repacking benefit the flow on the system and, consequently, the HP output and/or powerbank. Regards, Eduardo Jofre CHILE
  11. The CRF 250 X has good handling manners, but IMO corner speed is just OK because the bike sometimes tends to loose traction. I'll really appreciate your approachs on this subject. Some data: 1.- I'm a 1.74 mt. rider, 160 lb. The bike is fitted with ProTaper KX high and 1.64'' BRP bar mounts with 3mm offset, resulting in some 0.95'' of bars height increase. I've found this position to be more comfortable, specially when ridong in standing position, and IMO the overall handling is better than stock height. 2.- Fork tubes height with respect to top of the upper triple clamp is 4mm (the bike came with 2mm). I'm considering the following mods. to improve cornering traits and speed: A) to turn the bar mount to the forward position, which would result in 6mm offset compared to stock. to increase fork tube height of point 2 above, to 10mm. Would you agree with these mods. or I'm shooting in a different direction. Of course it would be possible spend $ 300 in 22mm offset triple clamps to improve a handling level that is not bad at all; maybe it wouldn't be of much help, would it be??. The idea is to use what I have at hand. Regards, Eduardo Jofre CHILE
  12. The CRF 250 X has good handling manners, but IMO corner speed is just OK because the bike sometimes tends to loose traction. I'll really appreciate your approachs on this subject. Some data: 1.- I'm a 1.74 mt. rider, 160 lb. The bike is fitted with ProTaper KX high and 1.64'' BRP bar mounts with 3mm offset, resulting in some 0.95'' of bars height increase. I've found this position to be more comfortable, specially when ridong in standing position, and IMO the overall handling is better than stock height. 2.- Fork tubes height with respect to top of the upper triple clamp is 4mm (the bike came with 2mm). I'm considering the following mods. to improve cornering traits and speed: A) to turn the bar mount to the forward position, which would result in 6mm offset compared to stock. to increase fork tube height of point 2 above, to 10mm. Would you agree with these mods. or I'm shooting in a different direction. Of course it would be possible spend $ 300 in 22mm offset triple clamps to improve a handling level that is not bad at all; maybe it wouldn't be of much help, would it be??. The idea is to use what I have at hand. Regards, Eduardo Jofre CHILE
  13. Thank you Levy1, I appreciate your recommendation. Do you consider the Hotcams 1 for enhancing low-mid range, is a cam of similar performance as the stock X, or It's just plain better in all aspects. What's the type of performance the Hotcam 1 provides, beyond the X cam or R cam riding attributes. About gearing, what's your experience with the 13 tooth, how the bike's perfomance has changed, it what aspects i.e.: acceleration, response to full throtle opening etc. Regards, Eduardo Jofré CHILE
  14. Thank you Premirrider, I agree with cam change recommendation, I'll find out the available options. By the way, do you consider the Hotcams 1 for enhancing low-mid range, is a cam of similar performance as the stock X, or It's just plain better in all aspects. About exhaust, I believe my full CRD system should do the job, as it comprises a R type of headed coupled with a racing silencer that makes no noise. Saludos, Eduardo Jofré
  15. Thank you Shredjim for the comments, they do help in clearing up my picture. By the way my CRD system is comprised by a tuned header (larger diameter than X, similar to R design), and ISDE compliant silencer with less than 93 DB. CRD is well known in European ISDE and suposed to provide 5-10% gains. Let me a few more to questions to get finished with the issue of CCC. 1.- With regard to cam change, what I'm looking for is faster acceleration, provided that our events are characterised for curves corners and short uphills within an Enduro trace. Then, would the cam change do the job, provided that the 2005 / 2004 R cam enhances the upper range ?, or maybe I should keep the X cam, which is supposed to enhance powerband from low to mid range. 2.- Gearing, possible by shifting to a 13 tooth I can get "faster" acceleration. If you tell me this is true, I'd rather keep X cam and assume thar first gear would be of seldom use. I can live with that. As a matter of fact, in our courses the use of 1st. gear is rare, except of course in very tight technical stuff. Anyways, if the cam would still become a contribution to boost beyond the change in sprocket, I'm prepared to do the spending. 3.- About jetting, please confirm what to do with the jet leak (65 stock)., 4.- Piston & ring life: what's your view/habits. 5.- Backfire screen: the bronze screen in the filter cage. I can do the change, but hope it wouldn't compromise aire sealing capability of the system. What this cage is supposed to do/protect. 6.- Oil change and air filter. Definetively followig the advice. Being generous with fres oils is a key to longevity. By the way, Honda HP is very expensive here; what about shifting to high quality sinthetic oil for auto use. 10w/40, or 10/50 are cheaper. Saludos Shredjim. Regards, Eduardo Jofré