Jump to content

MC777

Members
  • Content count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Neutral

About MC777

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mississippi
  1. MC777

    06 YZ250F Owners..

    I use one quart and 10.24 oz or about 10.5 oz from a ratio right cup. for the oil change with filter change.
  2. MC777

    valve adjustments

    Finally someone has gave me what I have been looking for...a good idea of when I need to do the first valve check on this 06 YZ250F. I have been reading post for what seems like 2 days, trying to figure out some sort of schedule and I believe I have a really good idea now. I installed an hour meter before the machine was cranked and all maintenance, oil changes at least will be based on hours run. I was hoping for a firm number like every 20 hours or 400 hours. So it looks like I need to check the valves about 3-4 times a year just to make sure all it OK and holding up. I will break it up to some hour meter reading according to use this winter and into next summer. I would like to have sufficient shims ready when I do the inspection incase I need to bring clearances in check. Do you guys recommend a buying a selection shims you may need from Yamaha or is there some company that sells a box with an assortment of quality shims that will do it for the 250F? I have never done this before but it ain't rocket sceince. FAQ looks pretty simple if you pay attention to detail. Thanks, there is a lot of good info here.
  3. MC777

    My Yamaha ! A Question !

    I too am new to the four stroke world and I am loving the 06 Blue YZ250F. My son is progressing amazingly from the YZ85. You were talking about oil change... I am a clean freek and that oil change pulls at my heart. You were asking about the thick hose that attaches to the bottom of the oil tank... From your post... this is where I become confused, I don't understand if I am supposed to pry off the thick rubber hose, or to use allen keys to take off that piece the bolt came out of. First of all that peice where the bolt came out on the bottom of the oil tank if the bottom of the oil strainer for the oil tank. If you follow that thick hose around you will see it bolts to the right side of the engine block, loosen the worm clamp on the hose attached to the bottom of the oil tank and with a 10 mm socket remove the bolt that holds the other end of that hose to the engine block. Watch out there is an o-ring there...don' loose it. Now with the other end of the hose unbolted from the engine block... that thick hose will slip off the bottom of the oil tank pretty easy if you have the hose clamp loose. After you get the hose off...then take the 5 mm hex wrench to remove the strainer from the oil tank and clean it. Slip it out straight out. If you do not remove the thick hose from the oil strainer in the bottom of the tank you could possible bend or damage the strainer screen. That hose does not have enough slack in it to slip the strainer from the tank straight out. Be careful and watch out for the O rings around the stainer. Inspect and clean all of them them before re-assembly Hope this helps...The book does not tell you how to get the stainer out...it just says check and clean it. I have not found anything in mine yet, but to me it is a good idea to keep an eye on it while you got the bike down. I just wish I could find a 1/4" drive 5 mm hex. I have looked every where...still no avail yet. I am not as likely to over tighten stuff with 1/4"
  4. MC777

    Lowering a YZ250

    I ran across a short guy (About 5'2")at an arenacross riding a 04 YZ250. That bike was dropped front and rear, I am not sure but it looked like about 2 inches, and the seat was carved out to make the seat lower... I was very impressed. He was about 30ish and a good rider but just short. I talked to him about what kind of mods he had done to his bike to get it lowered for his height and was thinking about doing this to a 125 for my son so he could touch the ground at that time. He told me he sent the forks and shocks to Factory Connection. http://www.factoryconnection.com/index2.htm If you look on this website you see they charge an extra $25 for and I copied this from the site "*** Height Reduction Service is also available with Re-valve. $25 charge per set of components (forks/shock) A great option for those with shorter inseams, a process that is 100% reversible. ***Exceptions: Ice Racing, Flat Track and Super Moto are $25 per end or $50 per set of components (forks/shock)" I have never used them but it looks like an option if you want to go low. You may want to call them and see just how low they can go...I like the fact that it is reversable. But...I know a lot of kids that cannot stop the bike due to they cannot touch the ground. They use starting blocks to get out of the gates and if they drop the bike the push the bike and jump on it and start er up. It is a lot cheaper maybe than the Factory connection solution.
  5. MC777

    moron's at yamaha

    I use a Lift stand. I lean the bike on it non extened, just slip it under the frame near the right foot peg. This is pretty secure so it will drain...It is as secure as the triangle stand. This 06 is my first real four stroke...and I love it, I agree It is a kind of a pain to change the oil...removing the strainer and the oil running down the side of the engine when you replace the oil filter. I pull off the plastic water pump gaurd and the skid pate. Wash that area with soap before I do the oil change, then wash the whole bike after the oil change is finished, removing any oil that dribbled down. I installed an hour meter before it was started. Has 4.1 hours on it. We will race it for the first time in an arena cross Saturday night. Wish us luck.
  6. MC777

    Part numbers for these items?

    OEM parts---What year model? IF it is not 2006 you may try this. Yamaha has a parts section on their website. You could look it up get the part numbers then call you dealer and have him order them for you and my dealer will mail them out to me...but 2006 YZ250F is not there yet... http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx But if you are like me...no Yamaha dealer with in 100 miles. I have used these other sites to buy OEM parts and they also have exploded views of parts. Neither of these have the 2006 YZ250F on them yet. http://www.yamahapartstogo.com/parts.aspx http://www.bikebandit.com/ http://www.ronayers.com/main.cfm You need to shop them...certian parts are cheaper on one site and other parts have a better price on the other. Watch the shipping cost...that may make the difference in total cost of the parts. 39 cent washer may cost $4.00 shipping on one site and the washer may be $1.25 on the other site with $2.00 shipping.
  7. OK what is the reasoning? Yamaha put Dunlop 756 front and rear on the 06 Z125...great, but on the 250F they opted for the Dunlop 756 rear and 739 on the front. Anybody got an idea why? Down here where we ride, the Dunlop 756 is the tire of choice ..well at least for me. There are a lot of Michelin Star Crosses run in this dirt for MX. Seems kinda funny to put a hard terrain tire on the front with a intermediate on the rear? I guess I just need to understand why before I order a front tire for this new bike. Please know that I am a die hard 2 stroke guy that has just purchased his first racing 4 stroke. I have always heard...2 stroke rear wheel steer...4 stroke front wheel steer. Does Yamaha's tire choice for the 06 250F follow this?
  8. MC777

    Best deal on 06 YZ250F

    Picked up mine today $5457 out the door
  9. MC777

    Best deal on 06 YZ250F

    $5298 06YZ250F Bardwell Yamaha Bookhaven MS. But there is a waiting list. 601 833 1760...Waiting on mine now...anyday now
  10. Decal Works?...I have lost faith in them. I used them exclusively they were tough as nails...the fonts were always perfect and they lasted for what seemed like forever. I crashed and busted one of the side number plates and the background stayed on the plastic, just broke where the plastic broke. Now they have that 3M backing they do not stay on as well. First set I got after they changed to the 3M backing i had trouble. Installing was easier...even dry. I did notice when I lifted the decal to reposition it that part of the color came off...Then started to peal up 1/4 inch all the way around the number plate...of course dirt sticks to this and they look like...well you know. I emailed them...telling them about the problem and requesting to purchase another set with the old backing material. They said they had some bad glue and sent me a replacement set. Great... When I went to remove the old ones...the decal came off the number plate but left all the adhesive on the bike...what a mess. I had a time getting all that adhesive off... I Installed the new set...first race noticed dirt around the edge of the front plate. After closer examination...found the front decal was pealed up about 1/8 of an inch. Oh no... Pulled all of them off and again had that layer of adhesive stuck on my number plates... Decal works has some great looking pre-printed back grounds but that since they changed to that 3M stuff...I cannot make them stay on... I am thinking about trying some of those attach graphics just to see...
  11. MC777

    Need info on lowering 250F

    I ran across a short guy (About 5'2")at an arena cross riding a 04 YZ250. That bike was dropped front and rear, I am not sure but it looked like about 2 inches, and the seat was carved out to make the seat lower... I was very impressed. He was about 30ish and a good rider but just short. I talked to him about what kind of mods he had done to his bike to get it lowered for his height and was thinking about doing this to a 125 for my son so he could touch the ground at that time. He told me he sent the forks and shocks to Factory Connection. http://www.factoryconnection.com/index2.htm If you look on this website you see they charge an extra $25 for and I copied this from the site "*** Height Reduction Service is also available with Re-valve. $25 charge per set of components (forks/shock) A great option for those with shorter inseams, a process that is 100% reversible. ***Exceptions: Ice Racing, Flat Track and Super Moto are $25 per end or $50 per set of components (forks/shock)" I have never used them but it looks like an option if you want to go low. You may want to call them and see just how low they can go...I like the fact that it is reversable.
  12. I have been struggling with this question for several months. My kid is 13 yrs old 5'7" 110 lbs and races a 03 YZ85R. I am going to purchase a new bike really soon...but I cannot decide on a 06 YZ250F or a 06 YZ125 stroke. He has a 03 TTR 125 he loves to ride in the yard and on the track behind the house, and really he does pretty good considering it is bone stock. Strangely He looks better and faster on the TTR in the curves than on the YZ85. He races the 85 about twice a month around the state. He is kinda lazy and I have to keep on him to down shift the 85 in the curves cause he will try to leave it in a gear and fan the clutch to get it back on the pipe when he is just riding on track. I really like the 2 strokes for several reasons. - Easy to rebuild - I know how to make a 2 stroke run fast - easy to crank when you drop them in a turn or after a crash - Not sure I can do the work on 4 stroke as I do now on all the 2 strokes - I ride a YZ250 and love 2 strokes. The 4 stroke, I am not really sure... I believe the 4 stroke is more powerful and that would give him a competitive edge, but I am afraid if he drops it in a turn he will be done for that race. Too many times I see 4 strokes on the side of the tracks with the rider trying to get them fired back up while folks are rolling past them. Even at Loretta's this year, I saw a lot of that. I know he could crank a 2 stroke and get it back on the track in a second or two and be back in the race. I am also afraid of the costly 4 stroke rebuilds I have heard from some of the guys I race with...not many Yamaha's, mostly the other brands. Burnt valves, New Top ends, Clutches baskets destroyed, costing considerable more than I exxpected. But most do no take care of thier bikes like I do. I try to do all my own work or have so far. If I knew I could get the bike so he could crank every time...all the time, there would be no question which one I would buy. I know there is a little but if weight difference in the bikes, probably not enough to worry about but I am concerned that..the extra weight is higher in the frame, so he may feel that extra weight. I thought about putting him on a 125 for a year or so that he may get used to the bigger bike, then move him up to a 4 stroke next year. I feel that may not be too wise, with the two era ending in a couple of years. I was hoping for some advice from some folks that own and ride 4 strokes. Please HELP?
×