Protozoa

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About Protozoa

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    California
  1. While you are inspecting your brakes, have a look inside the caliper. I just bought a 2008 250 XC-W and during inspection I found there is a plastic insulator of some kind that is completely melted by the previous owner. The brake still works but the melted plastic hardened into an irregular shape and now the pad does not sit flush to the rotor. Part of my repair plan includes carbon pads.
  2. I made one for my YZ250. It did help me find my problem. Not because the pressure was leaking visibly by the gauge but because I took the end off my stethoscope and put the open tube end into the oil fill hole and heard a slight bubbly sound of air getting past the seal. I had to pinch off the power valve vent hose because that leaks too much which is normal. I had just rebuilt the bottom end and when I put the case halves together somehow the garter spring popped off the wet side crank seal. Anyway I used sprinkler pipe fittings and a Stant radiator pressure tester.
  3. I have been wanting to try one of these but I haven't ordered one yet: http://www.animalhandles.com/
  4. In case you haven't seen this, it is very good news for a local OHV park. Many thanks to Don Amador and the BRC. http://news.utvguide...lawsuit-to.html
  5. I removed the plastic parts, put them in a vice and beat them into shape (cold) with one of those plastic dead blow hammers. No problem, 3 or 4 whacks and they fit perfectly now. The plastics went right back on. On another bike I have the Emgo guards which fit perfectly with no bending. One more detail, the Cycra guards fit the 2002 YZ250 better after changing the master cyl. and front brake line to over to Honda CR because of the way the brake line comes from behind.
  6. I have the same problem on my son's YZ250 and I haven't solved it yet. Looks like bending the handguard is the way to go. I have the same bike as him with generic D-Kirk guards and they went right on, I think they are made by Acerbis because they look identical. The aluminum should just bend cold I guess, or do you think it would be easier if I apply a bit of heat?
  7. I have had good luck using a combination of a long bolt and a series of drivers and spacers. As stated, you can use sockets as drivers but you don't have to beat on them, just tighten the nut and let the bolt pull it through. As the bearing reaches the end of the inside you have to have a spacer big enough to allow the bearing to pass through. Not sure if you can visualize this, but the concept is smilar to the above stated Motion Pro tool. I learned a long time ago to save old wheel bearing cups, pieces of cutoff steering stems, pieces of sprinkler pipe, etc. to use as drivers and spacers and they always come in handy for operations like this. I like this method for the install because I don't like to beat on a new bearing.
  8. We have 2 bikes like yours, same year. Zero coolant loss.
  9. Well, I have searched the information super highway for days trying to figure out how the cartridge comes apart so I can post my shims. I have given up. It looks like the top unscrews from the aluminum tube. I made a set of soft jaws by drilling a 2x4 and cutting it in half so I can hold the tube still in the vise while I work on unscrewing the valve and I have to stop before I destroy it because it is not moving. I don't like the idea of just putting it back together without knowing what it has for mods because I will never be able to troubleshoot it without knowing what shims it has. So I guess I should just take it to a suspension shop and start from scratch. I feel so beaten down. Thanks for your replies, any other words of wisdom will be appreciated.
  10. They were like that when they came out. They are wrench tight, they look loose in the picture, though.
  11. Hi, my son bought this 2002 YZ250 and I am trying to help him get the suspension sorted out. I thought I would just do springs, seals, bushings and SPI3 fluid. When I pulled the forks apart I found the base valves had been replaced and the cartridge has been drilled so I am assuming the mid-valve has been modified. If I new what outfit this was from I might try to work with it, so I thought to post pictures in case someone recognizes the hardware. I'm not sure how the mid-valve comes apart so I'm not sure how to inspect it. Thanks in advance.
  12. Amazingly, the threads in the case were not damaged. Heating it up would have been a good option, too. The previous bike was a 2001 YZ125 and the plug bung extends down from the case. On that one the PO overtightened it and cracked the bung. I repaired it with JB weld and put plastic wrap around the drain plug threads and threaded it in until it dried. Afterward I backed it out, removed the plastic wrap, put a new drain washer on and it was leak free.
  13. This is common on used bikes I buy. The oil drain plug was over tightened by the PO. After the 6-point socket rounded the hex drive I went to vice grips. Next I tried a hammer and chisel, this usually works but you can see in the pic I stopped once it looked like I was going past the sealing surface. Last resort was a Blue-Point stud extractor - victory. Just a word of advice, it doesn't need to be that tight. On the new one I used a drain seal you can get from any GM car dealer, the one that is steel with silicone rubber. It is the correct size for 11mm ID drain washers and can be reused many times because the silicone doesn't crush. This is on my son's 2002 YZ250.
  14. I agree with the one comment "ditch the kidney belt". Unless you need it, this holds in heat. Also, I use the Thor Static 3/4 sleeve jerseys which come just below the elbow so when I stop for a break I can slip off my arm guards and cool down. I am not sure if they sell them new but you can usually buy new old stock on ebay.