Jump to content

IR055

Members
  • Content Count

    339
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About IR055

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    United Kingdom

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. IR055

    Would you..?

    this! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173436549680?ViewItem=&item=173436549680
  2. IR055

    Would you..?

    Too late to learn to ride the smoker as the frame, forks and wheel were all bent (I met a crew-cab pick-up who was cutting the corner on a blind bend) I'm trying to find out exactly what build has been done on the bike. I was assuming that the motor has been stripped to bore the cases for a larger liner, plus a stroked crank, if the claimed capacity is correct. The big fin head will help with cooling and may (or may not) mean that further head work has been undertaken. The CR frame should be a sensible upgrade on the XR in the handling department. But the bike could just be a whole load of trouble if the work has not been done well.
  3. IR055

    Would you..?

    Would you buy this? I didn't know it was even possible to bore / stroke a 250 out to 340cc How is this likely to affect engine reliability and how would the performance compare to other bikes. How about the chassis? I'm assuming that it would be somewhere between an XR250 and more modern machinery. To give a bit of background, I'm hoping to return to riding after an accident last year left me with a shattered femur. I'm on the mend now but left with a shortened and weaker left leg. I rode a brp for a number of years but sold it to go lightweight 2 stroke last year as my riding is now mostly tight and technical. I didn't really gel with the smoker though.
  4. IR055

    Bearing stuck on crank

    I would go with the freezer and heat option. Rather than explaining, just watch Lyndon do it. 5:25 if you don't want to watch the whole vid. The correct tool will make it easier but providing you freeze the crank first you won't need to get the bearing too hot. I use heat and cold to fit wheel bearings - freeze your wheel bearings first and they drop right in under gravity with the wheel hub at room temperature. With a frozen crank, I would happily use my hot air gun, although I do have some different shaped shields which fit over the nozzle to direct the heat towards / away from specific areas.
  5. IR055

    NOS 450 - would you buy?

    Thanks for the advice. Will give them a miss.
  6. Hi To keep me busy while I recovery from an injury (head on with a wayward crew-cab left me with a shattered femur) I have been trying to decide what bike to buy next. In Cyprus I ride a mixture of firebreaks, fire roads and tight gnarly single track. I have also ridden long-distance off-road rally in Greece and may do again. My EC300 (destroyed in the crash) was bought as my previous BRP was just a bit cumbersome for some of the places I go, but I didn't really gel with the 2 stroke. Once I am strong enough I want to find a lightweight 4 stroke bike with enough grunt to entertain me, but which will be easier to ride than the BRP - I loved it but it could be a handful and restarting after it had been upside-down was a pain. I'm thinking of a 450 but wouldn't rule out going smaller. A KTM 350 would probably be ideal but my budget won't stretch to a new orange bike and I know of too many of the latest KTM 250 and 350 engines that have left their owners with a big repair bill. So I am looking towards a WR or CRF-X to get a rock solid, reliable bike at a price a bit lower than orange. So while browsing bikes I came across a couple of WR450s which caught my interest. 2006, zero miles - the last of the steel frames 2007, 36 miles, - the first of the alloy frames - this was apparently the bike used for the official press launch in the UK Both are offered at £5000 which is a substantial saving on the price of a new bike (around £8k) but also more than a used bike from the respective model year (around £3.5k) Having only ridden a WR for a couple of miles, the question is would you buy one, which one and why? Or should I be looking elsewhere? TIA
  7. I would be checking the needle and jet sizes that the bike was supplied with. Then head over to gasgasriders.org and check out what other riders are using for similar riding conditions (elevation and temperature etc). Your jetting might be a bit different depending on the changes between the old and new models but it should give you a starting point.
  8. IR055

    ATK / Rotax 4 Stroke Crankcases/Main cases

    The 604 cases cannot be replaced with cases from a 500 motor without a bit of work as the piston sleeve has a bigger outside diameter on the 604. The 500 cases can be used but you need to have a machine shope bore out the sleeve hole which means removing all the internals and bolting the 2 crank case halves back together first. This might help though.
  9. IR055

    790 kit with too tight bore?

    790 is a big piston and. like the others suggest, it's going to be difficult to turn over. I don't know the 650 engine very well but I'm assuming it has an auto decompresser. Is there any way you could have installed that incorrectly and it isn't working?
  10. IR055

    dr350 no spark

    Got her running. I went for a new pulse coil since the resistance was out of spec. When I unscrewed the coil in the bike it turned out to be from a completely different bike. Whichever clown put it in had to cut the end of the mounting holes to match the holes on the bike. In went the new one and I now have a fat blue spark. A bit of fresh fuel and drain the carb off and she booted up. Engine sounds quiet and picks up well. Test ride tomorrow
  11. IR055

    dr350 no spark

    On the 91 I have the single trigger coil rather than 2, however the voltages you report are pretty similar to mine. I'm using a pocket digital multi meter and I understand that the ignition pulse is short and difficult to measure. The source coil specs for OK resistance and is giving 50V+ when I kick it over so I'm assuming it is OK. The trigger coil resistance is a bit low at 120 ohms (spec is 180 - 270) and is giving 0.2V when I kick it, again not much coming out of the CDI. Is this a faulty trigger coil? Could it be in the wrong way round? It is possible that the previous owner had the cover off as the bolts were not particularly tight, as were the 3 on the stator. All of the connectors for the stator and CDI are bullet connectors so at some point the original connectors have been changed. The plug cap looks like it has seen better days but I have tried another cap and plug with no difference. I have an ignition coil, HT lead and cap coming from ebay so I will throw them on when they arrive but I'm leaning more towards the trigger coil or the CDI. Don't want to spend cash unnecesarily though. Edit: Checked an image of the Stator and it looks the same as mine. With only 1 pick up coil I can't see a way of fitting it incorrectly either.
  12. IR055

    dr350 no spark

    Another bike with a problem. Just bought a 91 kicker, might even have a 441 piston. Been told it is a non runner but the vendor admitted that he always had to get a mate to start it as he could never do it. Either I need to learn the technique for the bike or it has a problem. Earthing the plug against the head and kicking over doesn't produce a spark. Power coil is 300 ohm, trigger coil is 110 ohm. Coil low tension is 2 ohm and high tension 7k ohm. Power coil is giving plenty of output. Trigger gives a very small pulse, as does the white and blue wire to the coil. Black and White is connected to earth, black and yellow is not earthed. Any help appreciated. Thanks
  13. IR055

    DR350 CDI Ignitech ignition

    Hi Jamie I'm assuming that the client currently on eBay is yours? I'm collecting a non running 91 dr350 kicker tomorrow, apparently with no spark. I'll run the checks and go from there but I may need a cdi I notice that ignitech offer a non programmable cdi. Would this work or is the programmable version required?
  14. IR055

    So long and thanks for all the fish!

    It's a bit heavier than the Z, taller and wider too so not as easy to manage off road, but crack the throttle and it just digs in and takes off. You could plough a field with this thing. On the road, where I will unfortunately be doing most of my riding is where it really makes sense compared to the Z. Instead of feeling like the motor is revving it's nuts of at 80mph, I can be just changing up into 5th with lots of revs still to go. Even with my minimal sense of mechanical sympathy (lots of throttle wherever I go) it makes sense. In fact I am having to learn to be a bit more gentle with the right hand. I will drop in to see how you're all doing every now and then. Keep that throttle pinned. Iain
  15. Well I have sold the DRZ after 3 years and lots of (s)miles. I can honestly say I have had more fun, and learnt more, with the Z than any bike I have owned in 15 years of riding. In the end it came down to needing to extend the house for the arriveal of our second child this summer. I couldn't afford to keep 2 bikes, wasn't going to give up dirt riding and didn't fancy doing 10k+ miles a year of rev limiter commuting on the Z. I now have a KTM LC4 640, opened up, fitted with a race can and jetted properly. With current gearing it will happily do over 100 with the SM wheels and it feels a bit under-geared at that. It's a beast off road though, heavy and tall but you don't need to change gear very often. I know it won't match the Z off road but since I am only getting out a couple of times a month but commuting daily I had change it. Thanks for all the help and advice guys. Iain
×