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About Stupid-Rookie

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  1. Stupid-Rookie

    The classic question: DR-Z400 VS WR450F

    One thing to be aware of is in Australia we get the "good" DRZ400. What this means is that our "E" model (plastic tank) comes with the FCR pumper carb the American guys have to add to the bike. It is also road-registrable from new. I had a DRZ400 and rode it to and from work, then on the weekends rode 40km on-road to get to our riding area, rode around off-road for a couple of hours and then rode the 40km home. I did oil and filter changes every 1,000km and put grease in the grease nipples, oiled the air filter and that is it. It was perfectly reliable, no hassle. Brother-in-law has an older WR450F (steel frame) and he rides more frequently and it is just as reliable engine-wise, but shorter service intervals and he has had occasional electric starter problems. This is probably more to long periods of no riding. I am currently bikeless and am looking at my options and the WR450F and KTM450/500EXC, DRZ400 is not. Not because it is a bad bike, but because I now have the confidence to try a more focused machine and I would rather take the new bike in a trailer to the riding area and have the lightness and suspension travel a road-registerable dirt-bike offers than the convenience of riding a less dirt-focused bike to the riding area, but then not having the same competence off-road. TL/DR: Buy the DRZ400E now add the Thumpertalk case savers, a bash-plate, and better tyres, but stop there and ride, ride, ride. When you know what direction you want your riding to head sell the DRZ and look at a more focused machine, WR450, EXC etc) Just my thoughts, Stupid-Rookie
  2. Stupid-Rookie

    pack rack crap

    Tony, Just so you know, there is a difference between E model and S model sub-frames, in the States. Over here we get the good E will all the good parts, including a proper sub-frame. So if you buy from the states make sure you get an S model rack. Check eBay for "DRZ Rack", there's a seller SpruceGoose (I think) selling the Pro Moto Billet one. I'm going to get one eventually. Stupid-Rookie
  3. Stupid-Rookie

    DRZ coming 69th overall in 2007 Lisboa to Dakar

    Guys, 57th Position now. He's doing incredibly well. Chooken, yes her real name is Patsy Quick. Others, I've been led to believe that to enter as a privateer in the Dakar you'd be looking at about $150-$200,000 AUD or about $125-175,000 USD. Hrmm, might try the Australian Safari first..... Stupid-Rookie
  4. Stupid-Rookie

    DRZ coming 69th overall in 2007 Lisboa to Dakar

    Chooken, Are you referring to Patsy Quick? She was riding a modified KTM 525 EXC I believe. She's also started a race team, Desert Rose Racing which offers support to Dakar competitors. Bikes, Logistics, Mechanics etc. What a job..... Where abouts in AU are you? Hey that rhymes Stupid-Rookie
  5. Stupid-Rookie

    DRZ coming 69th overall in 2007 Lisboa to Dakar

    Yes, it's The Dakar
  6. Guys, Check out the gallery (fotogalerie) at Ivo Kastan's website. Additional info and original TT Suzuki Dakar post here. He's in this years Dakar and doing very well. Keep an eye out for race number 32 when you're watching the coverage. Pos. N° Name Make Time Variation Penalty 69 032 KASTAN (CZE) SUZUKI 31:50:03 09:11:29 03:00 From the photos it would appear that it started life as a DRZ400SM. It also appears that the forks got swapped out for Marzocchi's, there is also a Twinair air-filter, Yoshimura pipe, Excel wheels and who knows what else. Not bad running at 69th overall on what would be the smallest capacity bike in the field, possibly the cheapest too. Stupid-Rookie cross-posted at ADVRIDER.COM
  7. Stupid-Rookie

    Stupid-Rookie's Maintenance log

    G'day everyone, Go here to see the spreadsheet Maintenance schedule I've put up. At this stage it is only a transposition of the Owners manual. I'll be updating it in such a way that you will be able to record the date and mileage of servicing, plus notes about what exactly was done, brand of lube etc. I've published it via google in the hopes that someone whose brain is functioning better than mine will think of an elegant way to just this, so...... feel free. Stupid-Rookie P.S Fork tear-down/oil change, steering stem bearing lubing, front and rear suspension adjustment, front and rear brake bleed, fuel tank removal, prepping the bike for washing have all been completed and guides a la Stupid-Rookie's oil change will be forthcoming.
  8. Stupid-Rookie

    Will these Motard wheels fit?

    Gents, Normally a DRZ400 forumer, but my Brother in law has been looking for some motard wheels for his 2005 WR450F for some time now. I've the opportunity to buy some Excel rims laced to "Straight pull Yamaha hubs". The wheels were from a Yamaha XT660 Motard bike. Some approximate measurements: Front wheel hub 114mm wide, with 40mm diameter bearing cavities. Brake disc PCD 150mm with inner diameter of 132mm. Rear wheel hub 140mm wide, with 40mm diameter bearing cavities. Brake disc PCD 133mm with inner diameter of 115mm. Info from the wheels: Rear: RK Excel E17 M/C X MT4.25 DOT Front: RK Excel E17 M/C X MT3.50 DOT There are no brake rotors fitted etc. Are these suitable for the WR? What would still be left to buy? How much would those things cost? And, finally how much is a fair price to pay for these in $USD or $AUD? Thanks in advance. Stupid-Rookie
  9. Stupid-Rookie

    Stupid-Rookie's Oil Change tutorial

    "Britisms"? I'm a bloody Australian Stupid-Rookie P.S I think after last weeks ride the next guides will be: 1. Replacing your clutch lever 2. Installing hand guards 3. Replacing turn-signals 4. Bleeding brake-lines
  10. Stupid-Rookie

    Stupid-Rookie's Oil Change tutorial

    Heh, You're right, I've got an aftermarket bashplate and I didn't want to confuse anyone. Stupid-Rookie P.S thanks for stealing my thunder on the Oil Filter Screen
  11. Stupid-Rookie

    Stupid-Rookie's Oil Change tutorial

    Thanks Mate, I'm aiming for Lego instruction clarity/simplicity. What I intend on doing is searching out the Owner's manual, Workshop manual, Information from here and then distilling it, and then photographing myself doing it for the first time. I hope that by approaching these things for the first time I'll be able to best describe it visually for other newbies. Next on the agenda will be: The mysterious oil screen of death Cleaning the spark arrestor Adjusting the chain Changing front and rear tyres Dialling in the suspension Bleeding the brakes Flushing the coolant anything else I need to do to my bike I find by documenting it for someone else it helps me to understand it more, and to be more thorough. Like they say, the best way to learn is to teach. Stupid-Rookie
  12. Stupid-Rookie

    Stupid-Rookie's Oil Change tutorial

    18. Give any surface where oil has dripped a blast with degreaser 19. Double check the tightness of all fasteners you have touched today, being especially aware of any oil leaks 20. Fire it up and idle for 3 minutes or so Hope this helps, I will be revising this as I've done it all up pretty rough. More to follow Stupid-Rookie
  13. Stupid-Rookie

    Stupid-Rookie's Oil Change tutorial

    G'day everyone, I could never find an oil change thread with enough detail in it for a beginner. So I thought I'd make my own. I plan on documenting any future servicing completed in a similar manner. Let us begin: 1. To start with assemble the tools for the job. You want the following Oil pan - large 10mm Socket or spanner 12mm Socket 14mm Socket or spanner Extension for sockets Ratchet handle 2 Liters of oil New oil filter Paper towel and/or rags Disposable gloves - personal preference Degreaser N.B The Frame drain plug (12mm socket) is very hard to get to, I managed to use a spanner as a test, but it is much easier with a socket and extension bar. 2. The manual indicates that the oil filler should be unscrewed. I unscrewed it, but left it in place to avoid anything falling in. 3. Now locate the Frame oil plug as depicted below. Place your oil pan underneath this bolt. Using a 12mm implement of your choice, socket/spanner, undo the plug and be prepared for the torrent of oil that will flow as so: 4. Once the flow stops, position the oil pan so it will catch oil from the Frame plug and also the Crankcase plug shown here using a 14mm socket/spanner, undo the plug and once again be prepared for the oil to piss out. An extra step here is to balance the bike in the upright position to aid in the complete emptying of the Crankcase. 5. Now that the bulk of the oil has drained locate the Oil filter cover. Undo the three bolt heads, oil will again drain out. 6. Take the Oil filter cover off taking care to remove the large "O" ring from the mating surface if it's not there check the underside of the Oil filter cover. If it is not there you're on your own. 7. Take a mental note as to which way the filter is facing, it should look like this now and also after replacing it. 8. Remove the old filter, see the small "O" ring at the back? We need that, you can leave it there or take it out and replace it when reassembling. We also want to get rid of that old excess oil, wipe it up with something. 9. Take the new oil filter out of it's packet it should look like this make sure there are no tears or other imperfections 10. With the area clean of old oil refit the small "O" ring then place the new oil filter in as corresponds with your mental note, or this picture 11. Now grab the large "O" ring and refit it to the underside of the Oil filter cover 12. Refit the Oil filter cover, observing the arrow stamped on it's surface to point upwards, thusly 13. Refit the Frame oil plug 14. Refit the Crankcase oil plug 15. Grab your funnel, any crap stuck on the inside will end up in your engine so make sure you clean it. 16. Place the funnel in the oil filler hole, and pour in 1.8L of your choice of oil. To measure out 1.8 Litres I find it easiest to keep an eye on these side indicators and wait until it looks like this, indicating there is 200ml left in the bottle. 17. Tighten up the oil filler cap Continued...