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      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

DeepPurplishBlue

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About DeepPurplishBlue

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  1. Looking at the TTR90 wiring diagram it is my opinion that this regulator will not work properly with the WR250F stator. I would recommend trying to obtain an original WR250/450 regulator or upgrade the stator so you can use a "normal" regulator/rectifier.
  2. That looks very generic and is most likely only going to work with a system that is not split like the stock Yamaha stator is.
  3. Hi I know this is an old thread but I have a related question... I put XR650R forks on my WR450. Yes you read that correctly, it is not written backwards... lol After 15 years of impossible to tune USD forks and seals leaking oil all over the brakes I gave up and went "old school" Anyway. The brakes are an issue. Stock Yamaha WR450 front rotor is 250mm. The XR650R is 240mm. My Nissin caliper bolts up just fine, but the sweep of the rotor is 10mm off. The issue is the caliper lugs on the XR forks are shorter than those on the Yamaha forks. I had a 270mm Tusk rotor on the WR before the fork swap and the caliper bolts up but hits the rotor. I changed the rotor back to stock 250mm using the caliper bracket from the 270mm kit temporarily to clear the 250mm rotor. The caliper sits 10mm too high with this combo. Not ideal, but at least usable. I did similar research with EBC parts to what you did here, and found an irreconcilable anomaly. The EBC 280mm kit for the XR650R uses the same caliper relocation bracket as the EBC 280mm kit for the WR450. In theory, this suggests that the solution for my clearance problems is simple... Get the EBC 280mm caliper bracket, and use it with the 270mm rotor. Easy! BUT... The fact that EBC claims the same caliper bracket goes for XR and WR is a conflict I cannot resolve because it just isn't possible due to the different fork lugs. Either EBC is lying about the size of the rotor on one of these applications, or they are selling kits that DO NOT FIT properly for the Honda. The sweep of the rotor would be 10mm too high. If it is wrong for the Yamaha, it is 10mm too low and the caliper hits the rotor. Either way, something ain't right... Anyone have any insight here? Anyone try the EBC 280mm kit on a XR? Is the rotor *really* 280mm? What was the part number stamped on the caliper bracket they supplied? Thanks!
  4. The original Yamaha reg/rec has a pigtail with the same kind of plugs as the stator and matches the stator wire colors. Did someone change the plugs? Should be two plugs, white/red and yellow/white. If you have a regulator with no pigtail, it is not a Yamaha original.
  5. Those voltages look OK. It looks high but the regulator/rectifier converts that to useful power at the expected voltage. Looks like you may just need to sort out the regulator. Since you are getting good voltages between the stator wires and ground it sounds like it is the original Yamaha stator. An aftermarket stator or an original stator with the "floated ground" mod should read nothing between earth and the stator wires.
  6. Assuming the UK model is similar to the US model, if it is the stock Yamaha stator and regulator it does not work the way you think it does. It is a split system with two coils in the stator. One feeds the bulk of the power to the headlight the other is for charging the battery. Reading the voltage for the yellow and white wires from the stator is done from one of the wires to ground, not across both wires. Also if you rewound the stator and it is no longer the split system the way it came from Yamaha (i.e., "floated ground" or other) your stock regulator will not work. You will need a different regulator.
  7. care to elaborate?
  8. You might want to have a look at the reply I posted to the other thread you started on this topic...
  9. Yamaha split the system AC & DC because they saved a few Yen by doing it in the cheapest possible way. The DC wattage is not much and that is what charges the battery. It is not enough to run lights. The AC side is plenty to run lights and there are some LED lights that can run on AC or DC without issues. By definition a LED would work on AC or DC but with some of the lights the driver cannot cope with AC properly. 70 watts is a lot for LED lights, unless you are doing night races in Baja that is way more light than you need. I would not go much over the wattage of the stock light, and in fact best to keep it as much under it as possible. Regular lights just get dim at low power output (i.e., low engine RPM) but LED lights don't like it. If you reach the threshold of power output it will flicker or just shut off. The electronics in the driver don't like this. So unless you want to change the stator and regulator and make your electrical system all DC as it should be, you should shop for LED lights that will work on AC.
  10. 03-04 tanks are unique to those year bikes. in 2005 Yamaha put a smaller "YZ style" tank as part of their "amazing weight savings" claims... We have retrofitted a couple 2005 WR450s to get the fuel capacity back up to a reasonable level without going to desert tanks. The tanks will fit on the frame but the seat and shrouds will not swap from 2003-4 to 2005-up. To make it work you have to change the seat and shrouds also. If you want to sell that 2004 tank PM me
  11. It actually isn't said at all... in fact, they do clearly state that you will be lapping the valve face in addition to the valve seat normally lapping is done to mate the valve to the seat, removing minor imperfections with BOTH that would prevent perfect sealing and is ALWAYS done with the valve that is supposed to be in that location. It is pretty much pointless to do it with a valve that will not be used on that seat. having said that, conventional wisdom is do not lap titanium valves, but the point is Yamaha themselves makes no mention of that
  12. Yamaha seems to think it is OK... from the WR450 service manual:
  13. I have looked into this a bit, and even bought some extra swingarms and linkage on ebay for experimenting. The bolts are already drilled by Yamaha, I was able to thread the end and screw in a zirk. The challenge is drilling the grease exit holes in the bolt, none of the drill bits I have were up to the challenge. Even fancy cobalt bits in the drill press did little more than scratch the bolt. Plan B was to drill and tap the aluminum parts and grease from the outside. The aluminum was easy but then ran into the same problem as the bolts-- the hardened shells of the stick bearings resisted all attempts to drill them. Plan C is to take it to a machine shop and let them do the drilling. The reason for all of this is I have 10 WRs and if we can just shoot a few pumps of grease into each bearing after a ride that will greatly increase the chances of the bearings still being good when we do the regular inspection tear-down.
  14. You would probably be better off just buying the whole kit from Trail Tech... Includes the stator and regulator. Easy install, just unplug the old and plug in the new