• Announcements

    • Bryan Bosch

      JUST IN!   07/18/2018

      Video: 2019 Yamaha YZ250F Features & Benefits 


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

168 Excellent

About DeepPurplishBlue

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. They have a rotopax option for that rack on the page at the link I gave you
  2. The pro moto billet unit is great but a a bit pricey. I use one on my personal WR450 and like it a lot but if you are looking for a less expensive option take a look here: http://www.nomadic-racks.com/store#!/Yamaha-WR450F-2003-2006-Yamaha-YZ450F-2003-2005-RACK-KIT/p/4114236/category=976077 We use these on our customer WRs for our offroad tours and they work fine. No problems 5-6 years of use.
  3. Unless the previous owner of your bike also changed the stator and regulator/rectifier the yellow wire will not be positive because the headlight circuit is AC. Aftermarket stators usually change everything including the headlight to DC.
  4. That is exactly the pattern that oil out of the decompression plug follows. You are describing the 4mm allen bolts that hold the valve cover on. The plug in question is in the head, next to the exhaust. Look at the link I gave.
  5. When that plug pops out the oil that comes out it not much... just a few drips and spurts every now and then. From your description it really sounds like this is what happened. The plug in question is number 15 in this link: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2003/wr450f-wr450fr/camshaft-chain Installing it is not hard. Can be done on the bike.
  6. Sounds like it blew out the plug for the optional decompression lever on the head. Check up there for a missing plug about the size of a dime +/-
  7. The YZ header is the same size on the steel frame bikes, of which the 2005 is one. We have five steel frame WR450s and put the YZ muffler on all of them with no mods to the pipe. They perform well at all RPM ranges. Much better anyway than the highly restrictive stock WR muffler. JD jetting to accommodate the change. You are thinking of the aluminum frame bikes where Yamaha used a header that is about the size of the ones on our WR250s.
  8. Looking at the TTR90 wiring diagram it is my opinion that this regulator will not work properly with the WR250F stator. I would recommend trying to obtain an original WR250/450 regulator or upgrade the stator so you can use a "normal" regulator/rectifier.
  9. That looks very generic and is most likely only going to work with a system that is not split like the stock Yamaha stator is.
  10. Hi I know this is an old thread but I have a related question... I put XR650R forks on my WR450. Yes you read that correctly, it is not written backwards... lol After 15 years of impossible to tune USD forks and seals leaking oil all over the brakes I gave up and went "old school" Anyway. The brakes are an issue. Stock Yamaha WR450 front rotor is 250mm. The XR650R is 240mm. My Nissin caliper bolts up just fine, but the sweep of the rotor is 10mm off. The issue is the caliper lugs on the XR forks are shorter than those on the Yamaha forks. I had a 270mm Tusk rotor on the WR before the fork swap and the caliper bolts up but hits the rotor. I changed the rotor back to stock 250mm using the caliper bracket from the 270mm kit temporarily to clear the 250mm rotor. The caliper sits 10mm too high with this combo. Not ideal, but at least usable. I did similar research with EBC parts to what you did here, and found an irreconcilable anomaly. The EBC 280mm kit for the XR650R uses the same caliper relocation bracket as the EBC 280mm kit for the WR450. In theory, this suggests that the solution for my clearance problems is simple... Get the EBC 280mm caliper bracket, and use it with the 270mm rotor. Easy! BUT... The fact that EBC claims the same caliper bracket goes for XR and WR is a conflict I cannot resolve because it just isn't possible due to the different fork lugs. Either EBC is lying about the size of the rotor on one of these applications, or they are selling kits that DO NOT FIT properly for the Honda. The sweep of the rotor would be 10mm too high. If it is wrong for the Yamaha, it is 10mm too low and the caliper hits the rotor. Either way, something ain't right... Anyone have any insight here? Anyone try the EBC 280mm kit on a XR? Is the rotor *really* 280mm? What was the part number stamped on the caliper bracket they supplied? Thanks!
  11. The original Yamaha reg/rec has a pigtail with the same kind of plugs as the stator and matches the stator wire colors. Did someone change the plugs? Should be two plugs, white/red and yellow/white. If you have a regulator with no pigtail, it is not a Yamaha original.
  12. Those voltages look OK. It looks high but the regulator/rectifier converts that to useful power at the expected voltage. Looks like you may just need to sort out the regulator. Since you are getting good voltages between the stator wires and ground it sounds like it is the original Yamaha stator. An aftermarket stator or an original stator with the "floated ground" mod should read nothing between earth and the stator wires.
  13. Assuming the UK model is similar to the US model, if it is the stock Yamaha stator and regulator it does not work the way you think it does. It is a split system with two coils in the stator. One feeds the bulk of the power to the headlight the other is for charging the battery. Reading the voltage for the yellow and white wires from the stator is done from one of the wires to ground, not across both wires. Also if you rewound the stator and it is no longer the split system the way it came from Yamaha (i.e., "floated ground" or other) your stock regulator will not work. You will need a different regulator.
  14. care to elaborate?