Jump to content

DR.Zaius

Members
  • Content Count

    1,884
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by DR.Zaius

  1. Picked up a 77 PE250 last year, all in all pretty good shape. All original it appeared, 2200 miles on it. It was street titled at some point. When I first got it, did the basics like clean the carb (spotless inside) replace air filter, spark plug etc. Fresh gas with spectra 32:1 with 89 octane. Fired up first kick, idling kinda kigh with lots of smoke, idle quickly came down to a chug. Sputtered a bunch at low throttle, didn't seem like I could give it throttle and quickly fouled plug....went through checking timing, adjusting needle clip, air screw, checked float level. Same results in back yard, though it did have a brief moment of getting on the pipe. Kinda put the bike on the back burner til 2 weeks ago. Rebuild top end, bored .5mm over, new reeds, new crank seals just to be sure. Bottom end was tight and looked to be in good shape so I left it alone. Burned out the pipe to clean out carbon. Flywheel is in good shape, as do the coils appear to. Fired up and basically ran the same as before. A BR7ES plug helps a bit but still comes out wet. Stock jetting was 40 pilot and 260 main which was in the bike. Gradually I've dropped down to a size 25 pilot and am getting similar results! Choke plunger tip is making contact and the rubber looks pretty good. If I pull it up it wants to die right out. Currently it is 25 pilot, 260 main, 3.5 turns out on PAS, clip 2nd from top. BR7ES plug. Out on the road once I get past the blubbery bottom end it pulls real hard. Gets through the gears really nice. Can't get the bottom end to clean up though and I'm afraid to go any smaller on the pilot jet. Every time I pull the carb to adjust inside the carb boot is pretty wet, sometimes smoking as well. Not an expert with old 2 strokes at all, but what am I missing here? It does seem to have responded a little to dropping the pilot down but still wont run clean at low rpms/throttle. Plug comes out wet still.
  2. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    Thanks to all who replied, it was the needle/needle jet. Replaced with new ones today and set to factory setting and it runs almost perfect as is. May need to tweak a little as I couldn't find a "perfect" spot for the air screw, anywhere between 1 and 2 turns out would work great for a bit then act either lean or rich at idle, respectively. Not bad though. Very rideable, runs amazing. Not sure I want to sell it now, even wifey likes it....
  3. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    I have noticed that, it is indeed sitting in the groove on the motor side. Right now it makes carb removal easier so I haven't looked into it much. The air box side of the carb does just barely extend beyond the clamp in these pictures. Once I get it running right I'll fudge with the air box and boots. Waiting on parts....
  4. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    Got both ordered already, $22 to my door.... Guess I haven't owned anything long enough to wear one out! Next chapter.... Thank you
  5. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    I though the needle looked pretty good, but never really looked close into the needle jet much. Definitely has some wear, though I'm not sure how bad this really is.
  6. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    So new "NOS" floats came in today, seemed to float about the same and weight close to the same, but the pins that contact the float arm were just about at the bottom of the float. Old ones that came with the bike had the pins about 1/4 inch up from bottom? Not sure which, if either, are correct. Set float level to spec and it was back to square one, ran like crap up to 1/4 throttle. So I did a little experiment by flipping the old floats over and setting the arm higher than spec'd, so the floats are just off the bottom of the bowl and contacting the arm. Started like this with the stock 40 pilot as a baseline and it was way too rich, couldn't get revs. Dropped to the 30, little improvement. Popped in the 25, and had a glimmer of hope. Took it for a spin and quickly realized the float level was too low to satisfy the main. Was running pretty crisp when babying the throttle though! Raised another 1-2 mm, and is back to being rich off the bottom. Pulls nice from 1/4 - full throttle again. Air screw up to 4+ turns out, no difference. Actually took the screw all the way out with no difference at idle, was idling low and chugging a bit but was maintaining an idle nonetheless. This is driving me nuts guys....feel like I'm missing something simple. What else can cause this overly rich pilot circuit? I'll attach some pictures of the carb, maybe it's not original although everything I measure/find leads to a VM36.
  7. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    I hate to keep throwing parts at this bike, so I pulled the floats to see how they perform.... They weigh about 3.5 grams each, and seem to float pretty good in water. Not as good in gas. Maybe half way submerged, and pushes down with finger very easily. I filled the bowl until the floats shut off, and carefully removed the bowl without spilling and it seemed like a decent height (about .4" below gasket surface of bowl) but that may be higher than what the measurement to the arm should be? Who knows. Maybe I'll throw one more pair of parts at it for peace of mind. Lots of peace of mind parts so far....
  8. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    Reeds are new boyesen along with gaskets. Was playing with it tonight and now I'm wondering if fuel level is too high. It has the plastic looking sliding floats, and when they are sitting in the bowl full of fuel they are about half submerged. Took it all apart and cleaned out again, just to be sure. Per the clymer, fuel height should be .51-.59 inches. That is measured from the base of the main jet body (jet removed) to top of float arm making contact with needle. I'm at .55 inches. Needle, seat and sealing washers are new. Tested needle by blowing into the feed line and pushing up on the float arm works. I also tried going back to a 35 pilot. With the petcock barely on it was idling pretty nice, pas out 1 1/4 turns. As soon as I turned the petcock on completely it started loading up and 4 stroking at 1/4 throttle blips. Wondering if the floats aren't as buoyant as they should be?
  9. DR.Zaius

    Need some help with 77 PE250

    Bikebandit has the full fiche on it with part numbers. Got some stuff on Ebay, haven't had any problems yet. Found a clymer service manual PDF for all PE's, 175-400 that gives service specs. I'll see if I can't find the link if you would like.
  10. DR.Zaius

    Getting back in the game...

    Well time has come, one of my little ones is old enough to ride with me, time to dust off the ol DRZ. Over the winter I went through the bike a bit. Needed a water pump seal, few other odds and ends. Bike is an 01 E, btw. Bike has probably less than 15 hours on 434/+4mm top end. Was bored and plated at mil-tech, JE piston which I believe is 12:1 ratio. Can't remember what base gasket I went with, probably E. Stock cams, lapped the valves. Basically I want to make sure I'm on track to not burning anything up. Bike has a WB e-series pipe cut down to 12", running as few plates as I can for now (I think it's at 4). Looking to go back to a stock muffler for noise. Air box is very free flowing, some sort of OE type filter element. Shortly after rebuilding, the old jetting seemed to be working. I think it was 160 main, 48 pilot, EMM needle, stock air jets. Then it seemed to lean out at idle, and constantly push out coolant. So recently I added an extended fuel screw, got rid of the octopus/coast enricher and connected the two nipples on the carb. Idle doesn't run up anymore, good. Was still pushing out coolant going easy. Took temp readings with infra red thermometer and no part of the head or radiator was over 185, most was around 170 while boiling over. Replaced rad cap with a 1.6 bar and installed cooling fan on left radiator. Temps are about the same, left it idling after some slow riding to see how it does. Some coolant pushed into the turkey baster, maybe 2". Top of head was at 197 near exhaust port, hottest part of the radiator was right at 200. Strange thing, about 8 hours later I noticed a small puddle of coolant running down the left side, and found the system still very much pressurized.? Seems okay temp wise, but now I can't get the idle to clean up. Either low or high, never crisp. Tried turning the idle up with the screw, to adjust the fuel screw and it sounds like a chainsaw 4 stroking. Also have very little response with the idle screw, had to max it in to get to a raised idle. Once I backed it down it didn't really adjust from there. Best I can get fuel screw is a bit over 2.5 turns out Otherwise the thing rips from what I can tell. I can crank it from just off idle in any gear and it's pretty crisp. Starts easy. Haven't pulled the plug yet. Next, I found some leaded 108 race gas was gonna try to see it it helps at all. Or am I being picky? Haven't really ridden it much yet, just on the property to get the quirks worked out. Seems good overall but not as nice as when it was standard bore.
  11. DR.Zaius

    Really need help with fork assembly!

    I owe you guys big. I forgot the damper rod threads into the cap. I really need to start riding again. Thanks again, cheers!
  12. Old time newbie here, couldn' find my old handle I used just a few month ago and started back in 01 I think.??? Anyhow, desperately looking for some help on getting my front forks back together, on an 01 E model. Last year I took them apart incorrectly to pull the seals. Basically I just pulled the spring out and slammed the inner tube out until the seal came out (don't ever do that) because that's how it worked on my old KDX, simple forks. Well at first nothing seemed damaged, it pulled the seal out fine and the new one went in fine. Then I filled up with oil, put the spring in, put the cap on and let go and the inner tube pushed out too far, I was looking at the end of the inner tube with it at rest. So finally I picked up a damper rod tool to take it apart and see what happened. At the base of the inner fork tube, on the inside, is a little aluminum (looks like alum. anyhow) stopper/race that is pressed into the fork, I think. Looks to me like the damper rod hits this, limiting outward travel. I figured I pushed it down by slamming the tubes apart, but now I can't get the thing to move back up into the inner tube. No groves/snap rings hold it that I can see. I tried heating up the tube and hitting the inner part with PB blaster, then try driving it down with a 4 lb hammer and dead blow hammer. Now it's just starting to mark up the inner piece so I gave it a break. I've looked at microfiche at ronayers and can't find this piece, only shows the inner tube, damper rod, etc. I guess a picture is worth a thousand words so I will get one up in a few to show what I'm looking at. If anyone that has taken these forks apart before or has pictures laying around of this end of the tube that would be a start, it may be in the right place to be honest. Thanks in advance!
  13. DR.Zaius

    Really need help with fork assembly!

    Ok so picture #1 shows the empty tube, notice the inner sleeve is just about at the end of the tube. Picture #2 shows the damper rod all the way down, hitting the sleeve. This is what stops suspension from opening up, in my case it goes too far.
  14. DR.Zaius

    Messed something up!

    Sorry to bump...anyone?
  15. DR.Zaius

    Messed something up!

    Hey all its been a long time since being on here. Bikes been sitting in the garage, broken, for a while now. Haven't had time to fix it with a little one now, fixing house, fixing trucks, blah blah! Bike runs tops, the 4mm over kit is the cats meow and is way more then I need now. Got the rear end valved for me and thats working great, but I went to do the fork seals last year (leaking pretty bad) and I did them the same way I've done other, more simple, conventional forks. Pull spring and damper tube, pull dust seal and retaining ring for seal, then pounded the forks apart untill the seal came out. Put new seal in, new clip, dust seal, spring and damper rod, threaded cap on. BUT when I let the fork decompress the inner tube pushes out too far, not good. I must have un-seated a bushing or something, but I can't figure out how to get the forks apart the right way. Right now if I pull the seal out I can only pull the upper tube out enough to see the milled down (smaller) section, won't come out all the way. Any help is greatly appreciated, it was about 70 degrees and sunny out today and I can't stand seeing the bike just collecting dust in the garage any more. Eddie?
  16. DR.Zaius

    Messed something up!

    Ya got that, my problems somewhere underneath the spring ha. Anyone ever do a re-valve? I'm more interested in how to fully take apart the forks, should be clear then.
  17. DR.Zaius

    Need to get riding again!

    Yep seal stays in place, inner fork tube slides out beyond the sealing surface to the smaller tapered end and wobbles around. I replaced the guide bushings as well, the rubber surface on those were worn out.
  18. DR.Zaius

    Need to get riding again!

    Well it's been a long time, bikes been sitting, and I stepped outside today in the unusual 50 degree weather and got the itch. Problem is, I went to do fork seals a few months back, and I'm pretty sure I messed something up. I did it the same way as I have done with older style conventional forks, pull the cap/spring, pull up dust boot and circlip, then pulled the forks apart like using a slide hammer. Well the old seal came out fine, but when I seated the new one in and went to put the cap on for the spring, the inner fork extended out of the outter fork too far! I'm not sure what to do with it, I'm guessing take the bottom bolt out and see if it shows something obvious? Thanks for any help, last year was the first year I haven't gone riding in almost 20 years and I hate it!
  19. DR.Zaius

    Freshening up 86 XL250R

    I've had an 86 XL250R(G) for about a year now, got in in trade for a little work. Doesn't look like it's ever been dumped, just ridden a little bit. Overall in pretty good shape. Once I cleaned out the carbs and put fresh gas in it started right up. Runs great, I really like the power delivery, and it seems to have quite a bit more low and top end power than my girlfriend's CRF230 all be it bone stock. I'd really like to make this thing nice, as I really like the old Honda's. So the other day I stripped it down to the frame, will sandblast and powder coat soon. I would like to upgrade the front end, the drum brakes and tiny forks are somewhat limiting, I can live with the rear end as is though. I've tried searching and can't really find what is compatible with the front stem. Seems like maybe early 90's XR250 forks/trees will fit? How about some inverted CR forks? I can't really find any dimensions online as far as the stem differences go, and I'm not opposed to making some modifications to make something work like welding in a new stem. But if anyone has some insight it would be greatly appreciated! PS Gas tank compatibilities would be great too, the OEM steel tank had some pinholes near the petcock. Won't be used on the street, so plastic is preferable. Thanks again!
  20. DR.Zaius

    Freshening up 86 XL250R

    That looks good! I'll mostly be using it for off road, no motocross or anything, mostly trails around here. Inverted forks sound great, may I ask where you found conversion bearings? Stock races or from the donor bike? Sorry for all the questions, kind of tough to find details for swapping. Also just curious, what year CR did those forks come off? Thanks again!
  21. DR.Zaius

    RM250 vs XR650R- Which one?

    Hey guys (and gals...) I could borrow some knowledge if possible. My birfday is in July, and my dad said he will get another bike if I sell everything else. It will kinda be both of ours while we have the DRZ and the new bike, but he doesn't ride nearly as much as me. I know it is pretty much apples and oranges, but I cannot decide which bike to get: RM250 or XR650R. I truly do ride everything possible, and I am leaning towards the RM. I am bigger at 240lbs and 6'1", so that pushes me to the XR, however. And that top speed of a buck even sounds ever intriguing! Whatever I get, it will be a 2001 leftover (hopefully... ) WHICH SHOULD I GET!!! I am stumped and any suggestions or expeeriences with these bikes would be great. Thanks! [ April 20, 2002: Message edited by: DR.Zaius ]
  22. Hello all, Been a while since I've been around here (especially these forums) but I've recently got back into riding more often and it feels good! Anyhow, I recently got an 86? (I believe) XL250R dual sport, it was sitting under a tarp for years...got it for free. Cleaned the carbs, popped the head off to make sure every thing was decent and it all looked pretty good, some carbon deposits but everything was tight. The only thing thats keeping me from riding it now is in the bottom right corner of the tank, water settled and rotted the tank from the inside out. I didn't find this out until after I did the "kreem" treatment, when gas started spitting out from behind the paint. Patched it just I could see if it ran, which it did very well, but that won't fly. The tank and some plastic missing is all thats wrong with it. Question is, where can I find a replacement tank for it? Won't be on the road so doesn't have to be plastic. Will an older XR tank fit, or even come close? It IS an XL, has the dual un-sync'd carbs and from what I've heard different frame. Any insight is appreciated, I really want to get this thing running for good. Cheers.
  23. DR.Zaius

    Shock Spring Removal-???

    Hey- how exactly do ya remove them rear 'spenders? I am (hopefully ) going to be getting Race-Tech springs front and rear- HOPEFULLY!!! I think I know how it goes, but not sure- Remove rear wheel, maybe subframe, remove linkage, drop the shock, then it all gets kinda fuzzy as to how to actually get the spring off. I am sure I could figure it out, but I would rather know in advance if possible. I am too cheap to buy a manual- 70 buckaroos! Thanks!
  24. DR.Zaius

    Rebuild questions

    Hello all, I finally got around to tearing the DRZ down. After 4 and 1/2 years of riding, everything looked pretty good, despite some minor pitting in the nikasil and slight signs of the skirt slapping around. I need a few suggestions though... Since it needs to be replated anyway, I'm thinking of going oversized. I can't seem to find any +2mm piston sets. Do they exist for the drz? Is there even enough material to go 2 or more mm over? And what is the name of that place in Tennasee or Alabama that replates/bores cylinders quick? I used them on my KDX 2 years ago and that plating job is still perfect. Next any good valves available for the DRZ? Right intake needs to be ground, maybe any oversized valves out there? I wanna do this right, perhaps even before the season is over. Thanks for the help!
  25. DR.Zaius

    Rebuild questions

    Millenium, yes! Thats the name. I'll be keeping stock compression though in case I ever find an S frame w/title. Its been awhile since I've shopped for parts online, any good ref's to a store with JE pistons?
×