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About mgschindel

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  1. The 06-08 RM250 is very sensitive to sag/preload settings, fork tube height, rear ride height, etc. and can become overly sensitive to steering input at higher speeds very quickly. Set-up is everything, on this particular bike, compared to a much more forgiving YZ 250 or older RM 250, for example. If you're wondering if all the magazine shootouts were right or if you already have the bike yourself, you know it carves like a knife and handles great on the track or in the woods. But it can give up quite a bit of stability and high speed tracking confidence, depending how it is set up. It gets quite twitchy at speed due to its steep steering angle, will headshake in protest, and can oversteer (turn too quickly) like a beast in loose sandy soil or on hardpack or even on grass. I always take motocross magazine commentary with a grain of salt, but Motocross Action nailed this bike's character dead-on when they wrote this very true statement about the 2008 RM 250: " The RM250 has pizzazz. It’s ultra quick, very agile and amazingly responsive. The RM250 steers on a razor edge, but is very touchy to get set up. If you miss on the fork height, rear sag or tire pressure, it can become overly sensitive to input." This is absolutely accurate. I was pretty discouraged at how twitchy and nervous my new 2007 RM 250 leftover felt initially at high speed until I got it sorted out. It is very tune-able and handles incredibly well once you've tweaked it. The bike is great in stock setup for the track. But for trail work and fire roads, I find it works best for me (160 lbs 5'10") with the stock rear spring, to tame it out as follows: compression damping two clicks in from full soft (forks and shock), unloaded sag 45mm, loaded sag 115mm, forks all the way down in clamps except for the last 1/16" at the very top which is chamfered, and a Koubalink RMZ-3 dogbone link which lowers the rear of the bike about 1.5". I also keep the tire pressure on the trails to about 12-13psi front, 11-12 psi rear. The bike now still turns like an animal but has way more high-speed stability. Feels great. I can go way faster on the bike, it soaks up all the hits big and small on the trails, doesn't deflect off rocks and roots, doesn't track into ruts and grooves, rails down fireroads at speed without headshake or fishtailing, and feels stable and smooth all around. No shock/fork revaling or steering stabilizer necessary here. And when you wanna go back to the track, put the stock shock link back on in 10 minutes, raise the forks up 1/4inch in the clamps, adjust tire pressure to suit track conditions, beef up your compession damping clicks, and you're good to go. You can turn inside just about anyone except another RM 250 : ) I know the Koubalinks get really mixed reviews on different bikes and have no real place on an mx track, but I really like the RMZ3 link on the RM 250 for faster trail riding with the bike. Despite a slight reduction in suspension travel, the increased stability on the fast trials and the increased footing in the woods make for a great upgrade that also makes the suspension feel more plush at lower speeds as well. A cheap easy upgrade if you're gonna make a trail bike or woods bike out of your mx'er on occasion.
  2. mgschindel

    Help! Need low end torque for my 07 Rm250.

    Blocked pilot jet would cause noticeable, audible major hickup/sutter and big gap in the power transtion right off idle as the throttle is yanked open. It is more likely too much fuel in the air/fuel mix off the air screw, which would cause bogging and delayed power but would not miss or hick-up like a clogged pilot. Reed valve assy could also be assembled incorrectly (reeds backward) or could have damaged or failed reeds...?
  3. mgschindel

    Help! Need low end torque for my 07 Rm250.

    Was it also this way with the stock RM pipe? My 2007 RM 250 has stock pipe and has quite a bit more bottom end, faser roll-on, and more instant throttle response/snap, especially down low, than my prior RM ('03). I was actually really suprised how hard and instantaneously the bottom hits and immediately, easily pulls right into an unrelenting, fat mirange pull, for a slightly high-strung 250 motocrosser! It's a beastie for a 250 especially in the midrange. As a result of the 07's fatter powerband, I have less dramatic transition into the midrange hook because it's already pulling pretty hard right off the bottom, particularly in 2nd and 3rd gear, but the power is right there, right now. It roosts out of corners, pulls the front end up, right off the bottom into the midrnge off the low revs, and never stops pulling until I let off. My 07 RM250 has actually saved me from wiping a few times, due to its low end pulling me out of a spot where my front end began to wash in a tight, sandy turn, and instead of just ripping loose and lowsiding, or bogging and flopping in, I was able to snap it upright and inline with tractable power, and roost out on the mids with minor "stomp-n-go" tactics with my boot. With its extra bottom end power, it is way less effort to muscle around and snap into the mirdange power than my prior RM. The 03 RM was too soft on bottom and had more upper mid hook that felt like it came on later but suddenly, and produced rear-end-skittering wheel spin out of corners when transitioning from the too-soft bottom to the sold upper midrange. These 2007 bikes are way more like a YZ250 engine-wise than the older RM was. More tractable. It sounds like it might be a reed valve assembly issue. Do you have stock or aftermaket reed valve assy? Have you had the stock assy apart and if so, made sure to reassemble carefully and correctly? Something just sounds wrong. I'ver ridden an 06 RM 250 as well, it felt just as strong, snappy and tractable, with a stock pipe and just some leaning out on the needle and main jet. Down here in Florida at sea level with high humidity and heat, the main is way too rich on the 04-07 rm 250, the pilot works fine and the needle is at least in the ballpark, just needs tweaking depending on humidity and temperature. I used to think my heavily modded 2006 KDX200 had decent bottom to mid (it had more lowend than my 03 RM250) until I bought this 07 RM250 and an 07 KTM300xcw. The RM has about 30% more lowend pull than the KDX200 now, A LOT for an mx'er, and the KTM has about 60% more lowend than the RM! It just lugs and pulls through everything like a 4 stroke in some ways. The KTM makes the RM feel anemic in the low end and low midrange but it does wind out slower. Since it sounds like you've already tried raising and lowering your needle jet and adjusting the air screw (the usual suspects, that air screw can be touchy and if too far out you'll bog), I'd take a look at the reed cage next.....Unless you're riding it back to back with your KTM300. Then it's gona feel anemic no matter what : )
  4. mgschindel

    07 RM250 air filter

    +1 Uni filter and sealed things up tight, no issues
  5. mgschindel

    Help! 2007 RM250 need better gearshift lever

    Best handling yes. But most "flat-out stable"? Have you tried winding it out on a fire road or long hard-pack straight? If your RM250 is more stable at high speed than your KTM300, then the KTM is set up wrong or has something wrong with the suspenders, take it to your dealer. The RM turns on a razor's edge and is super responsive on the track. I've now tamed it a bit with a Koubalink for trail work/fire roads and for improved footing in the deep Florida sand. My sag and suspension tunings are now pretty-spot-on also. But both of my KTMs, which turn more slowly and have softer suspension, track like a railroad tie over the rough stuff, sand whoops, and fire roads at speed. They roll like a barkalounger by comparison (except for the hard seats). The RM also runs out of gear on the fire roads so it feels quirkier at the higher rpms at speed than the KTM300XC-WE, which hits the same speeds at lower rpms with less drama. I did discover on my first ride that the clowns at the shop where I bough the RM had inflated the front tire to about 30 psi.... Things got a lot prettier when I let about 18 psi out of the front rock..uh..tire....Amazing what a difference the correct tire pressure can make
  6. mgschindel

    Help! 2007 RM250 need better gearshift lever

    You're right it's much better standing and putting weight rearward. I've increased my sag to 4.3" and lowered the forks about 1/3" in the clamps. This helped a bit with high-speed stability and I can't notice any real reduction in turning. It just feels a bit less "oversensitive" to rider input at speed. I like it much better with this setup. I have also softened the compression setting on the forks.
  7. mgschindel

    KDX 200 deflecting on rocks/bumps

    You're right about the small, cramped feel for some people. It can be very awkward. The stock bars are small, cheap, low, and mounted close to the rider, to the point that some people over 5'9" say they can't stand up well on it while riding. Some people turn the bar mounts around or use bar risers and an aftermarket bar to make more room. The ergos are tight and combined with the short wheelbase, can leave a taller rider feeling clumsy and out of control.
  8. mgschindel

    KDX 200 deflecting on rocks/bumps

    ..and you can check and possibly lower your fork oil level a hair too, if it's still harsh or deflecting, could be overfilled...
  9. mgschindel

    2006 Rm 250

    A very good deal. If that's the bike you want, do it! My '07 RM250 really performs, no regrets. Nor-Cal Hoss: based upon the 250 reviews in the magazines I had read, I thought they had tamed the mids a bit from 06. No way, I say, my 07 has a big fat immediate torquey hit right off the bottom and pulls just as strong as the 06 in the mids. Other than the color of the seat I don't see or feel any real differences between 06 and 07. Carves just as good, still hits hard like a YZ, but revvs better on top (both the 06 and 07). I'm amazed and pleased how hard and sudden the RM250 hits and pulls in the low mids for the last couple of model years...
  10. mgschindel

    KDX 200 deflecting on rocks/bumps

    He could always trade it on something that LOOKS like the KDX a little bit, but FEELS a whole lot more stable and tractable like the WR450.....If he's not willing to go orange for a more beefy, solid feeling 2 smoke, I say throw some KDX stickers on a nice KLX450R and be done with it. Your friends might not even notice, especially if you hang a fake combustion chamber pipe on it to conceal the header pipe...Your pals at the next hillclimb will want your mod list...
  11. mgschindel

    picked up a (new to me) kx 125 for the wife..pics

    Good point. Switch her KX125 immediately for a KTM 300xc, and after she retires from the sport and stays home weekends to wrap up some of the yard work, chores etc. instead, you'll have to make good use of the new Katoom... Then you can even guilt-trip her about it every weekend...."Hon, you know that really nice dirt bike I bought you that you never ride, I gotta take it out this weekend again, it has a carburetor and it can't just sit there....."
  12. mgschindel

    KDX 200 deflecting on rocks/bumps

    MTO nailed it. the KDX is a quick-handling bike because it IS short. It does favor the low inside line and rips thru twisty stuff, sandy switchbacks and mucky ruts in tight woods really well, even with a full tank. But I did notice that the poster was comparing his KDX to a porky, cushy, heavy thumper, the WR450, which has a really cushy softly-valved front Kayaba fork, a really smooth powerband, and a larger, longer chassis. The KDX will never feel as solid as the WR, and the WR will never feel as nible or flighty and flickable as the KDX. But the KDX still shouldn't deflect. I'd try messing with your sag setting, fork tube height, and damping settings to see if you can get that under control, before you switch out the forks after paying to have yours revalved already, and a steering damper might be useful anyway if you're riding faster in more wide open spaces with softball-sized rocks laying around
  13. mgschindel

    KDX 200 deflecting on rocks/bumps

    Unstable and unpredictable as compared to what? Are you going 70mph WOT on hardpack and loose pea gravel, and through whooped out gopher hole fields at 70mph or something, with 12 year outdated trail suspension, expecting it to handle like a 280 lb 4 stroker or an older mx bike? That's not really what the KDX is about. Maybe Art5 and I are just lucky with our KDX200's but I just have to disagree. My properly set up 2007 RM250, by comparison, feels like it has (and does visibly have) an even steeper steering rake, "feels" like it has a short wheelbase, a taller center of gravity, and is way less stable at speed. I can turn almost as well on the KDX (except very high speeds) but don't have the schizo high-speed instability, deflection, and harsh suspension in the rough that my RM has. Sure the RM handles the rough stuff at WOT in 5th gear, but again that's not what a KDX is about. The KDX, though "outdated", can and will turn great, and is very stable, for its intended uses on the right terrain, especially for much lighter and shorter riders, with the supension properly dialed and the forks all the way down in the clamps. I guess Jeff Fredette might agree you can make the bike work pretty well....Check out his site, Jeff's an awesome guy and can help you if you call him http://frpoffroad.com/catalog/ Hi-Im-Sean compared the KDX200 to his DRZ. Well, I have a drz400 also, and you can't get more apples and oranges than that. The DRZ is like a Cadillac, a huge, stable, long, torquey, tractable, cushy, heavy 4-stroke tank! The KDX is a lighter, way more nimble, shorter, quicker tight-woods and offroad trail bike, just where my DRZ sucks the big monkey and feels like it weights about 90 lbs more rather than just 30 lbs more. I use the two bikes for two completely different things, and love them both equally for what they will and won't do. The original poster was looking to reduce deflection and get more stability. It can be done on the KDX and just sounds like a set-up problem to me. I've been riding them for years without those issues and haven't even bothered to revalve the fork on my 06 KDX200 this time around. If the KDX doesnt turn what were all those thousands of silly hare scramblers doing with them? If you think it doesn't turn exactly like a KX250 on a motocross track through rutted out digs and fast sandy berms, your RIGHT! But I think the poster just doesn't want his feeling twitchy and bouncing off rocks on the trails. It could STILL do that just as easily, with improperly set up KX250 forks on there....
  14. mgschindel

    KDX 200 deflecting on rocks/bumps

    I have the same good experiences with my 2006 KDX200 as Art5. The suspension is still stock and is both plush and soft. Proper setup and balancing is key. Making its action "harder" won't make it work better, you'll just get deflection and bounce, especially if you're under 180 lbs. The bike is very stable at speed even stock, AND turns insanely good in both the tight and the fast stuff for what it is. It sounds to me like you still have too much compression dialed in for the terrain you're on and maybe your new front springs are a hair too stiff? You may also wish to ease up on the rebound damping, and yes, be sure to balance out the front and rear compression damping settings, based on how you ride on and balance on the bike. Note that my fork tubes are also flush with the top of the triple clamps. I also cheated and installed a Koubalink #2, which lowered it about an inch total after I readjusted the sag. Don't even need a stabilizer now. It is stable as a railroad beam and tracks perfectly with no real deflection, and still carves very well for what it is. I bang softball sized rocks sitting on top of hardpack all the time on fast straights where I ride, and no issues. Despite being slightly mushy trail suspension that should never see an MX track, it is way more stable and way less finicky than my overly stiff, frantic, unstable RM250 which is sprung too hard for anything but fast moto X and DOES deflect. I don't think switching to a KX250 will cure the suspension dialing woes you're experiencing. You might find the stiff KX250 even worse (less stable and will deflect more at medium speeds) on the "offroad" terrain you're describing. If you can't make the KDX200 work I'm afraid it's time to step up to a KTM 300xc-w (oh no I'm gonna get flamed for that)
  15. mgschindel

    Help! 2007 RM250 need better gearshift lever

    Never had that problem in 20+ years on my last 7 bikes. Just wanna bring it down about 2/3" inch from stock where I need it. I'm not trying to hang it 2" below the frame. I also don't have size 15 boots. Thanks though. Frankly after a ride this afternoon on a longer, faster track, I'm less concerned about the ruts and more about tweaking it for the fast, rough straights. The suspension is pretty good and the RM frame geometry and steering angle make it carve like a knife, but it's pretty %$#*ing squirrelly and schizo at high speed in the rough right now. Time for a steering damper and maybe some more sag...Need some more seat time and suspension tweaking time. I'm thinking this bike is definitely best suited to much shorter TT tracks and maybe even tight woods and mid-paced single-track offroad. It has an instant, fat bottom hit like a woods bike, especially with the stock gearing, but is featherlight, flickable and more nervous/less stable than an old KX125. If you put a motard kit on this beastie and hit the pavement, without a steering stabilizer, you'd be into a fatal tank slapper and launching highside in about 30 seconds. But man does it turn in the dirt. I'll stay off the fire roads and longer faster tracks until I get a stabilizer on here, don't really have a deathwish for my forks, bars and plastics.