gm_two

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About gm_two

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  1. A BMW-type dipstick oil temp guage sure would be cool...any suggestions or ideas out there?
  2. Has anyone rigged up an oil temp guage (or even better, and oil temp/press combo guage) on their DR650? I imagine it can be done with a t-fitting spliced into the oil line.
  3. You picked the right bike for somebody with a backround in heavy equipment. I don't have a good answer for you on the shavings, but I'd not sweat it unless they're chunks vs. shavings. I had an old Lotus Seven disintegrate on me... For your own notes, it might be interesting to run a magnet over them and see if they're attracted or not (aluminum pistons, etc., vs steel parts.). I'd personally have less concern with tiny alu bits vs. steel chunks.
  4. I'm a near newbie on dirt (owned the DR for 2 years, a scant 2,300mi, maybe 20% on fire roads, 80% pavement). I don't know squat about serious single track riding, but one little key to safe & fun fire road riding is watching the surface ahead - I nearly wiped out 3-4 times on "easy" stretches of a 58mi dirt ride today when the smooth-ish dirt under the front wheel turned out to be fine gravel, pretty much sand. Some more experienced riders talk about giving it gas when you're in trouble, esp when in a turn. Pretty counter-intuitive, but I've gained a little evidence that it works.
  5. I use a millimeter-meter Sorry. I have a plastic-y an very cheap relative of one of these that I bought at a Lowes or H Depot some years ago: http://www.mytoolstore.com/starrett/slcal002.html I actually use it quite a lot - it's much easier to use usefully on all sorts of stuff that just doesn't measure with a ruler.
  6. I just pulled the upper roller - well worn grooves after only 1,900 or so. I've put in a Set Screw from Lowe's, 8mm X 10mm slathered in loctite.
  7. Many thanks to all! - Air Filter is very clean (a bit of gas sopping in there, I'll chase other threads to see what that's about) - Fat Blue sparks off each plug lead - Starts fine, no hint of the 'stall at stops when blipping the throttle' nonesense - no significant surge that I can differentiate from gusts or bumps
  8. Thanks to all - I skipped the coil grounding/spark check and went right for the carb. It looked marvelously clean in there, but I went ahead and pulled the Pilot and Main jets and sprayed carb cleaner through them, etc. I wussed out and stopped short of pulling the top of the carb apart. I did pull the plug over the pilot screw. It only had one turn on it, I put it back together with 1 1/2. I hooked up a tach and found that the idle was only about 1,100 rpm, so I goosed it by about 200 (darn thing's fast enough in 1st, as we with stock gearing all know). Seems to be a bunch better, but I need to seriously test it now:ride:
  9. Thank you, gents. I'll check the spark & coil ground and, if that doesn't reveal anything, I'll get brave and tear into the carb. Glad there's only one of them. KrustySS - choke appears to be behaving fine. It does what it's supposed to do on start-up, just needs to be kept on a lot longer these days during warm-up than used to be the case. Plugs show coloring indicative of normal-lean burning.
  10. Symptoms: - hard cold starting - until completely warmed up, the beast will die instantly on cracking open the throttle after coming to a stop. Easy re-start, and it'll go OK after a super-slow and smooth takeoff. - I've begun noticing a very subtle surge while cruising under 50mph or so Background: - 2005 - mostly 6,000+' altitude - 2,100mi - bone stock as far as the engine/fuel/exhaust are concerned - ALWAYS started and ran stunningly well but for the past several weeks - fuel in the tank is about 1/4 the dregs of last fall's leftovers, a mix of reg gas, CR-44 (?), and Sta-bil, and 3/4 fresh gas. It's OK once warm (but for the surge). It's the change in behavior that has got be concerned. Any suggestions? I've cranked down the carb boot clamps fore and aft, and a silicone spray test (no WD-40 around) revealed no leaks. I'm not keen on carb mods, as it had been soooo sweet up through the past several weeks. More riding and closer to 4/4 fresh gas is an obvious suggestion. Looking for and cleaning out a possible bit of junk in the low-speed circuit of the carb seems like the next best bet. Has anybody been through this, and what did the trick? Many thanks.
  11. If you're using downshifting agressively enough to be thinking about clutch wear, you're bigger concern might be the rear tire wear you're inducing. +1 on everything else said, especially about revving sounding cool. Downshifting is critical to being prepped for re-acceleration (per Max Kool), but you won't find any racers who'll downshift to deccelerate when then can keep the throttle on longer and use the brakes to actually slow down.
  12. Yep I'm blipper. +1 Max - we can't double clutch because we don't pass neutral. I s'pose it's possible between 2nd and 1st, but not worth the effort. I believe that both m/s boxes and modern car boxes are all "constant mesh." The diff that allows for 2x clutching in cars and not bikes has to do with the linkage and the way that linkage deals with locking gears to the spinning shaft. I dunno more than that. What I do on my DR650 and GS500 (works great for both): 1) Think about downshifting 2) Squeeze Clutch 3) Blib, rev, whatever 4) Tap gearshift (feels like butter after the rev, much smoother vs. banging the gearshift down and then rev/blipping) 5) Blip again (or hold revs from #3, depending on rate of deceleration and current state of mental acuity) as nec to +/- match engine speed as required 6) Release Clutch Can't explain why it feels good to do the blip first. My $0.02
  13. Quite a piece of work, thanks!
  14. It's been unusually nasty in Denver - 3-6" of ice /packed snow on lots of the smaller side roads, some of the highways are clear (but who cares), loads of heavy slushy stuff (it would be slush if the temp got above 15F...) Ain't no global warming here, not for most of the past 3 weeks. I garage ran the DR two weeks back, it was grumpy.
  15. On flipping the #$%^ donut: I'd read in a "lowering" thread sometime in the past year that flipping the donut does something to the geometry to prevent bottoming out. Whether or not your donut is flipped can be determined by looking carefully at it and comparing what you see to what is in the shop manual. The procedure does include moving the adjusting collars/nuts closer to the top of the shock unit to take out the sag induced by flipping the donut, so I'd conclude that the net change in sag from following the official procedure is nil. I am well out of my depth, but not as far out as my $uzuki$tealer who needed me to explain the official procedure to him.