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About pixelwrangler

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    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  1. pixelwrangler

    What are the Jobs of us fellow DRZ owners?

    Work in television; in the control room as a vision mixer at studios producing live content for national telly.
  2. pixelwrangler

    Clunk into first gear from a stop.

    Gee thanks for all the replies! I have set the idle really low otherwise if it is any higher it tends to hang a little when pulling up to a stop. Lowering the idle seemed to cure that. Ok... So it clunks ONLY when going into first for the first time. In and out of gear after this with clutch held in is no problem. So that means?...
  3. pixelwrangler

    Leaky overflow normal?

    I do know the float height is set correctly in my bike, but it occasionally overflows out the drain pipe if I dont shut off the tap when sitting. Is this normal? I have only had road bikes before and know they use a vacuum shutoff. Perhaps about a total of quarter of a cup in the occasional dribble over a night or two parked up. Should I just regularly be shutting off the tap after every ride?
  4. pixelwrangler

    Clunk into first gear from a stop.

    Yup, it can be clicked back up into neutral very easily. And im sure it is adjusted properly. I have actually just changed the oil as I had hoped that might fix it but it did not. Now using some fancy synthetic motorcycle oil. Idle speed is as low as it can maintain. I have had plenty of other bikes and never had one that made quite this much of a clunk... How do you know if the clutch itself is worn or needs some kind of internal adjustment? Is there anything else that could cause it internally?
  5. pixelwrangler

    Clunk into first gear from a stop.

    Hi all. My bike makes an alarmingly solid clunk when tapping down into first gear with the clutch completely in (when about to get going, from full stationary). The clutch seems to disengage fully, as I have even tried pulling it in all the way to the bar. This should be well released, going by my tests like slowly releasing clutch while in gear to see where the drive is felt etc. Is this normal? Seems like it may not be being too kind on the gears. Is there any other factors in the clutch system itself to look for that might be affecting the release other than cable adjustment? Cheers! Paul
  6. pixelwrangler

    Another DRZ400E hanging idle

    The float height is definately correct. This is something I have double checked. Cheers. Good link though. I should mention also that it is only a little slow to start when cold. Starts well when warm, with no choke.
  7. DRZ400E 2002 Elevation: Sea level Riding: Road only Temp: quite mild (temps usually between 50F - 80F) Exhaust: Stock (small centre pipe cut out of muffler end cap) Intake: Snorkel and attached top airbox cover removed CE bypassed using the Eddie method (blank one, tube connecting the other two). My bike seems to hang when pulling up to a stop for about 15-20 seconds. Somewhat annoying. It also takes a lot of cranking to get it to start, (though it does fire, it just wont continue to run until at least 5 to 10 seconds of cranking with choke on). On a side note; while I do know the float height is set correctly; it occasionally overflows out the drain pipe if I dont shut off the tap when sitting. Is this normal? Perhaps about a total of quarter of a cup in the occasional dribble over a night or two parked up. Not sure if this could be related, but it never used to do it. Now I just shut off the tap. Im actually still not convinced I have it tuned correctly though as it also still feels slightly lean at low throttle openings (bit surgey). 160 main jet dxp needle clip 5 45 pilot jet 2 turns fuel screw (original screw - lengthend for external access). I did try 48 pilot on Eddies suggestion some time ago; but found that I could wind the fuel screw all the way home andf it would make no difference to the idle at all. Using his idle method to confirm the pilot circuit, the fuel screw comes out at about 1.5-2 turns(set at 2 at present) Sigh. I'm sure ill get there in the end... Any suggestions?
  8. Ok... So I have put the original fuel screw back in. (extended it enough to poke out past the float bowl). I can still wind it right in and the idel doesn't falter; even making very sure that it is not idling too high and masking it. The only time the fuel screw seems to have ANY effect is backing it out; at about 3-3.5 turns out it starts to roughen the idle somewhat. In saying all this, I have left it at two turns as you originally suggested and it seems to run nicely with no issues under very light throttle. So it runs fine at idle, I just cant seem to get your set-up test to work... Up the top end, when I had the 160 main in it seemed to have more power under 3/4 throttle than WOT. So I changed it up for a 165 (just one I had already) and that fixed that, it now makes a similar amount of power under wide open throttle as it does under about 3/4. While this does seem to sound like it quite rich on paper, could it still be correct about here? It still gives a big cough when cracking the throttle wide real quick from lower speeds/thottle opening. Any ideas what this could be? I have checked the accelerator pump and it works ok. (1-1.5 seconds, happens immediately on opening throttle, misses slide). Thanks!
  9. Ok I'll put the factory screw back in to ensure I'm on the right track. Thanks. Yeah the massive cut-out when whacking the throttle fully open is while riding. Is this normally assotiated with being too rich or lean? I assume that would a symptom of the main jet, not the needle?
  10. It is indeed. It looked really nicely made but of course could be incorrectly designed on the taper. I was thinking I could yank it, if you think it could the problem, and replace it with the standard screw. I could extend the length of the standard screw enough to poke out past the float bowl, with four flats on it so it could be turned with a very small spanner. Hopefully this wouldnt add too much weight to it; and therfore inertia, to make it rattle and change its position. I assume I'm not the first to think of this! Thoughts? And while perhaps this particular problem is unrelated to the pilot circuit, what kind of symptom is it normally, when it chokes on it when whacking the throttle wide open?
  11. An Accel one. You think this could be part of the problem?
  12. Ok so pulled the carb off; it had a 165 main (so not stock at all!), on the factory needle in the 4th clip position and a 45 pilot. Put everything to your suggestions; moved the needle up one notch and fitted the 160 main and 48 pilot, and fitted an externally adjustable mixture screw while at it. Removed the CE using the bypass hose method. Ok so it has fixed the light load lean hunt, however two things now concern me: 1) Using your "how to confirm your pilot circuit setting" post, I cannot get it to drop/miss at idle even after winding the fuel screw right home. (So perhaps I should go back to the standard 45 pilot??) 2) Riding along at about 1/2 throttle, if I really whack the wrist all the way it gives a big cough and then away we go - albiet slightly under underwhelmingly. Seems slightly less maximum power under WOT now. So whats with the big cough?? That wasnt there before. In fact it even does it stationary, given a really sharp full throttle. HOWEVER I must say it is now MUCH more responsive in the lower throttle range blips, like it seems really keen to wheelie. Your help is much appreciated!
  13. Cheers. Do you have a preference in the technique?
  14. Any ideas? Thanks!
  15. So; 1) If I remove coast enrichener, what about the pilot air jet? Does that then need to be swapped to a 100? (thats kinda what I'm reading) 2) Does joining the two carb nipples have the same effect as blanking them off? (I'd personally lean toward blanking plugs if so) 3) If I do remove the CE, the rest of the jetting would remain the same as your above recommendation? (bar the pilot air jet??) Thanks heaps Eddie! Really appreciate it.