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About rolandb

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  1. You'll probably be running too lean with it out, you won't be even 1% faster, but you will be 100% more obnoxious, which is the last thing we need. Give it a quick scrub with a wire brush and put it back in.
  2. Just put them both in the middle, 12 out/counterclockwise from all the way in. That will give you a place to start from. The "stock" settings don't matter as you're expected to change the settings to what works for you. It's like asking "what's the stock setting on my toaster"? Put it in about the middle and work from're supposed to change it to what YOU like, so there is no "correct" setting.
  3. My '04 burns a little bit too. Didn't at first, but shortly before the first time I did head work due to intakes going to zero it started burning about as much as you're talking here, and has ever since, even though I've replaced piston and rings and honed it each time I did head work. Like the other reply, I'd say you've got nothing to worry about, a little bit of buring is normal.
  4. You're kidding, right? So one turn with a screwdriver is different from one turn via your fingers? How do you figure that? 360 degrees is 360 degrees no matter how you do it. Wow...a new low in internet engineering prowess.
  5. As others have noted, some chain slap under light loading is normal for the X. As far as gluing the chain guide to the swingarm, I tried it and it didn't change at all. Basically just get used to the chain slap under light loading, it's normal for this bike.
  6. Is it that the brakes do eventually pull up tight, just the lever travels further than it should before it gets firm? Or is it that you NEVER get a firm feel to the lever? If it's the former, your disc is warped. What's happening is, as the wheel rotates, the disc moves slightly side-to-side, separating the pads/pushing the pads back into the caliper a bit. Then when you pull on the lever, you expend the first portion of that pull getting the pads just to contact the disc again, then the last part of the pull is the actual braking action. Which is why the lever has too much travel, but eventually does brake/firm up. You probably won't be able to see the warpage on the disc. Use a dial indicator to measure the runout.
  7. Been trying to contact Agent Smith for a couple weeks now. Anyone heard from him?
  8. I suppose, if you want to characterize it that way. But to me, saying the 250x filter is hard to change is like saying it's harder to walk 10 feet than it is to walk 2 feet. Yes, it's technically true, but walking 10 feet is still no trouble at all. I just don't see what the fuss is about. Yes, it takes maybe 5-10 seconds to get the filter in the airbox and twist it around into position. But all the bitching about it?! Sheeez!
  9. I have an '04 that I've had for 4 seasons now. I've never had the slightest trouble changing the air filter. Ever. For all these years I've been wondering just what the heck the problem is people keep complaining about changing their air filter on the X. Nothing to it.
  10. I can't TELL you how far away I'd stay from that bike!
  11. C is the best for what you're looking for. B is tighter and more challenging. A is very lame, mostly sandy, not even worth it. So yes, C loop is your best bet.
  12. The rain makes all the difference in the world. The MCCCT up to Baldwin blows in the dry, especially the first 10 miles or so (going South to North) a frickin' bobsled run full of a foot of sand. After a rain, though it's great fun. We've now decided that we'll only run MCCCT after a rain, if no rain we'll do Horseshoe or Holton ST instead.
  13. Very cool! Thanks for the trail report. Going up there in a couple weeks.
  14. You've probably already thought of this, but since it's intermittent I'd inspect every single electrical connection on the bike, especially grounds.
  15. Simple things first...dirty air filter?