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About StuZ

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  1. StuZ

    Tire Size for '98 Yamaha WR400

    Stock tire sizes are 80/100-21 front and 110/100-18 rear. Still wondering about tubes in the on/offroad tires...
  2. I'm looking to keep my stock rims, but switch to an on-road tire to ride on the street and try some supermoto races. I'm thinking Avon Distanzas. What size will fit my stock f/r rims? Any suggestions for different tires would be welcome. Also, do you run tubes in the street tire/stock rim combo? Thanx, Stu
  3. StuZ

    YZ250F Offroad?

    mikeolichney , Couple questions for you: 1. How does the autoclutch work on the MX track? 2. Are you using the stock tank for enduros? If so what kind of range do you get? Or during a 80-100 mile enduro, how many gas stops? Thanx!
  4. StuZ

    Quiet Exhaust

    SFO, I checked the Ligne website, and the Absolute Power is rated for 98 dB and the Absolute Performance is rated at 91 db: http://www.ligneracing.com/html/body_absolute_performance.html Are you running the Performance silencer?
  5. StuZ

    Quiet Exhaust

    cnacc, I'm running the CRD Absolute Power on my '99 WR400 and it tested at 97.5 - 98 dB at the 49er Enduro in CA 3 weeks ago. They made it a point to tell me that as of 1/1/03, I would not be able to race at that sound level. I have a message to Ligne Racing to see if they have any idea how to gain 2 more dB on that system. It's not the Power II, as you have.
  6. THAT is scary! Wonder how it turned out...? armourbl, I'm trying to decide whether to replace my WR400 w/ a YZ250F or a WR250F and have been soliciting other peoples opinions. How is your WR on the MX track? What kind of trails are you on? I'm riding 50/50 MX and trails.
  7. StuZ

    02 vs 03 YZ front suspension

    Man, what a tough choice! Anyone know the transmission ratios for the '03 WR and YZ? Top speed is not an issue. Fastest I've gone offroad is ~60mph on fireroads. I don't ride open deserts. Only "desert" riding I've done is in Moab, UT where the technical difficulties preclude wide open throttles. A good low gear is what I need for some of the rocky/snotty rides I like to ride. Sounds like it comes down to changing to YZ timing (etc.), stripping the extras off and turning in the suspension clickers for MX riding for the WR. Or add a flywheel weight, a bigger tank and lower the gearing on the YZ for offroad. I assume the suspension geometries are both for each and the WR is valved for a more supple ride. Too bad I cannot get a chance to ride both. Do dealers ever offer demo rides? Or do they not have to...? (I know the WR is still not out yet). Thanx to everyone for your thoughts. I really appreciate it!
  8. StuZ

    02 vs 03 YZ front suspension

    THANX E.MYERS! I'm in a similar situation; started riding after not doing so for ~15 years. I own a 1999 WR400. Rode mostly trails until this summer. Tried riding an MX track and found it totally enjoyable and really contributed to making me better offroad. I also raced my first enduro this month. I feel the HEAVY WR400 is holding me back on the track and in the woods; time for a new bike. I live fulltime in my motorhome, so 2 bikes are not an option. A new WR would be great for tough offroad trails and not so good for the MX track; the YZ vice versa. Anyone have any thoughts/experience on whether it's easier to make a YZ competent on trails and a WR better for the track? I searched the archives, but the search function could not find anything pertinent no matter the search variables I used.
  9. StuZ

    02 vs 03 YZ front suspension

    Are you riding more MX than trails? Have you ridden the WR on an MX track? I ride 50/50 MX/trails and race enduros sometimes in the Lake Tahoe area. I'm trying to figure out which bike, the YZ250F or WR250F would be best for both. (Too bad I can't have both) I'm coming off a '99 WR400.
  10. StuZ

    which pipe

    Has anyone had a sound test performed on their TA pipe? Results?
  11. Dan, I'm having a similar problem. Last Saturday I punched a small hole in my leftside crankcase cover during an enduro. I rode for awhile and probably suck in a little dirt and maybe H2O. After replacing the oil, spark plug, air filter and fixing the crankcase hole. I’m having somewhat the same problem as you. The difference is that with a HUGE kick, I can get it through that bottom section of the kick motion. Sometimes I cannot and sometimes it will kick back through the kickstart lever. I can kick through holding the compression release wide open. When it works, it will start for a couple seconds (after pumping the throttle 5x), but not stay started. I’m guessing the exhaust valve is not sealing, but creating enough compression to ignite the mixture. I think it is not continuing to run after it starts b/c on the intake stroke, it is sucking thru the stuck exhaust valve and not getting fuel into the cylinder. Have you tried pumping the accelerator pump (by twisting the throttle) a number of times and kicking it through? Anyone have thoughts on my theory? Any suggestions to clean the valve seal other than pull the head off? I was thinking a cleaner/degreaser throught the spark plug hole, carb or exhaust port.
  12. StuZ

    Hole in Crankcase Cover

    Thanx T.O.P. I did just as you suggested today. Plugged the hole (more like a 1/2" tear) with JB weld and drained the oil. I lost < 1/2 a quart and the oil looked good; no water, dirt, metal, etc. Changed the filter while I was at it. I'm going to let the JB weld set up for ~ 24hrs to ensure a good bond. I've got my fingers crossed until tomorrows trial run. Thanx to everyone for your help and input.
  13. StuZ

    Hole in Crankcase Cover

    Thanx for responding guys, but I'm looking for some specifics. Why would it suck anything up and cost money? Why should I be looking for a new bike? Do you really know what the problems of the hole in the leftside crankcase cover could be? Or just guessing. I know running it when there is a potential problem can cause bigger probs, but that's racing. The crankcase cover (left) on my '99 WR has 2 screw in plugs. One is smaller on top, that is the timing plug; the second, the straight plug, is for access to the rotor and nut that holds it on. The timing plug is meant to be removed to time the bike w/ a timing light. So my question remains... Does anyone know of a specific problem I should look for or why it would stall the bike?
  14. Hey everyone, Don't know if anyone has experienced this problem; A rock punched a hole in my crankcase cover during an Enduro this past Saturday. The hole is located just forward of the straight plug. I was 45 miles into the 75 mile enduro when I discovered oil on my boots and left side of the bike. It was still running and oil loss was minimal. I figured on running it 'til it died or I finished the race. My bike ran great for 25 hard miles before it finally quit on a long uphill. It did not seize, the oil level was still adequate, it just stalled. Tried every method and trick to start it for an hour, but not even a pop. Finally, after a PBJ sandwich break, I gave the throttle 3 twists and it started for about 2 seconds. There was oil mist and forced air coming out of the hole. Long story short is that I was able to keep it running by constantly pumping the throttle to keep gas feeding the cylinder and got out. My questions are: 1. Any thoughts on why it would die after that many miles. 2. Is there normally pressure in the crankase to blow air and oil through a hole in the crankcase cover. 3. Anyone think of other problems that may result from the punched cover? Thanx for your answers and the awesome forum!
  15. StuZ

    Need a less than 95db pipe

    I also have the CRD Absolute Power pipe and silencer. It's definitely quiet, light and well constructed. I did not notice any change in power or delivery coming from a LOUD Up-Tite Racing silencer. Unfortunately I do not have exact sound or weight mumbers. It does have a spark arrestor (can see it at the end of the silencer). According to Ligne Racing, distributing the silencer, it has been approved by the USFS, but yet to receive a number. It passes the sight and stick poke test as happened to me the last 2x at Forest Hill, CA. Ranger was OK w/ volume, didn't measure. Please note, you will need to drain and refill your cooling system. The system comes with a new cooling line stainless elbow you need to install to prevent melting of the rubber hose on the exhaust. It's a simple swap to do and replacing coolant is a good thing to do anyway. Feel free to ask me questions about the setup. [ September 19, 2002, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: StuZ ]