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About ben782

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  1. ben782

    From Rust Bucket to Beauty Queen

    Can I ask how you were able to get the engine cases (inside and out) so clean? The engines I have restored and rebuild, I have never been able to get them nearly as clean as yours.
  2. Thanks for your advice and help, when I get this figured out I will be sure to post the results. Thanks again, Ben
  3. You make a good point. That's true, in this case it uses a rubber seal, but still serves the same purpose. I only brought it up because I've rebuilt several other engines that have a half sealed bearing on the right side of the case as well. Just trying to think of every possibility. Any other suggestions or possibilities that you can think of? Otherwise I guess Ill just put everything back together once I get the parts in and hope for the best this time around.
  4. I understand what your talking about and that the oil runs in parallel. Thanks though, for restating in case I wasn't sure. I cleaned and went through every oil passage and also made sure the oil holes on the shafts were open under the gears. My next question is about the bearing on the left side of the main axle. (part number 93306-00431-00) Is this supposed to be the half sealed bearing? (seal side obviously facing out, away from the inside of the case). The parts diagrams do not show it as a sealed bearing but it was a sealed type originally in the bike. Perhaps this should be a non sealed bearing?
  5. I have also been looking at the lubrication diagrams and I see what you are talking about. The clutch pushrod goes through the "main axle" and the splines on there help push oil through the clutch release arm area into the "drive axle" I am going to go through and clean all of the oil passage ways (actually, clean everything) and make sure there is no blockage anywhere.
  6. I made sure to not install the seal too deep and also made sure it was square the 3 times it was replaced. I noticed on the parts diagrams online that it shows the collar/spacer having square cutouts on the side that goes in for oil to pass through to the shaft. The one that was originally in the bike and the ones that I ordered have small C-shaped cutouts? Could this be an issue not allowing enough oil to pass through? This one has got me stumped.. Also, How to I upload pictures on here? Maybe a visual of what I'm talking about will help.
  7. I am repairing an oil leak on a 2009 yz450 that was bought as a left over model in fall of 2010. It started leaking from behind the sprocket. Simple fix, right? Yep, so I replace the oil seal, collar, and oring. It held for about one 20 minute practice session. The next time I started it up I noticed it was pouring out, not just dripping. I thought maybe I had made a mistake and replaced the seal and oring again. This time it leaked instantly with the new parts. I figured maybe there was something wrong on the inside. I removed the engine, split the cases, inspected everything. A few of the bearing were questionable so I replaced them all as well as every oil seal, o ring, gaskets and other little questionable parts. I assembled everythng and for more security I put a small amount of yamabond around the outter edge of the drive axle seal. It did not leak for 30 minutes of ride time. Then I noticed it was starting to seep under the sprocket again. Now I am getting frustrated. I inspected everything as best as I can from the outside. The shaft does not appear to be bent with running the bike. The oil is coming out between the collar and the seal lip, I was able to watch it slowly come out at about the 10 or 11 o clock area and run down and start to drip. I noticed the bearing covers about 1/3 of the oil hole in the shaft when installed. Could this "blockage" be causing the seal the not hold. The bearing was fully bottomed. I decided to split the cases again and look at everything again even more closely. I am not finding any definite causes. What could this possibly be? If it was some type of defect in the shaft or the case I would think the problem would have happend much sooner. If I had unlimited income, I would replace the cases and the shaft but that just is not logical. Any help is greatly appreciated. I have pictures but cannot figure out how to upload them. Thank You!
  8. I am fixing an 04 kx250f that has the typical crack in the right case around the kickstart area. I was wondering if a set of 07 cases will work with all the internals of an 04? Thanks for your help
  9. Thanks I will definitely give that a shot. Would you worry about plug color if I got it to run good in that rpm range. When I was getting closer the plug seemed to be getting pretty white? Eddie - are you refering to just replacing it with a new oem needle jet? I dont think they come in different ranges thats why im asking. I obviously know the jet needles come in different ranges. Thanks again!
  10. After playing around with the jetting, figuring I have nothing to lose, I now have the correct plug color: light chocolate color. But the bike still runs like it did before. I now have 165 main jet, 45 pilot jet, 1 1/4 turn fuel screw and needle is one clip richer than stock. Today it is about 40 degrees.
  11. I have an 05 rmz450 that the cases were cracked. The bike ran great other than this. I replaced the cases and did a complete rebuild. The throttle cables were fraying so I also replaced them. That was the only thing I did with the carb. 3 weeks later I now everythign finished but Now what im getting is a 1/2 throttle studder/cutting out feeling, but it is only there when i hold steady around a sweeping corner or cruising down a straight at steady throttle. I have it jetted richer because its below 30 degrees on the ice. At that point I had a 45 pilot jet, 170 main, fuel screw at 1 1/2 turns out. So from there I lowered the needle (raised the clip) and it ran much better but the problem still is present. I want to lower the needle one more notch but i took a look at the plug and it is definitely more white than it should be. I am very confused with this and I am not sure what esle to do. The bike runs like it is rich at half throttle but the plug is showing very lean. I am hesitant to lower the needle one more because of this. What could I possibly be missing? The bike starts in one kick and run amazing everywhere else besides cruising steady 1/2 throttle. I have double checked cam timing, cleaned the carb and made sure all electrical connections are good.
  12. I found the problem. I installed a different flywheel that I bought of ebay that was supposed to fit 04-06 rmz and kxf models. The one installed did not have the small strip to advance ignition. Anyone know what these flywheels that i purchased might fit so i can resell them?
  13. I just finished up rebuilding an 04 kx250f because of a transmission problem. I now have the bike all back together and it will start up 1st or 2nd kick. It idles fine but as soon as i get to just over 1/4 throttle it will cut out, pop, and backfire through the exhaust and intake. It will not rev up any higher. I have spare parts from other kx250fs and i have tried a different cdi box, different stator. The original markings for the tps are lined up so that hasnt moved. I have made sure that the carb is perfectly clean and all connections are clean and tight. Also I know that the cam timing is correct Im guesing that I have an electrical problem somewhere, possibly the coil? I dont have a good one to try and use. Although I have followed all the tests in the service manual and it all tests out. Does anyone have any ideas of what i could be overlooking? The bike ran well before I tore it down to rebuild the transmission.
  14. Hello, I have done some searching around but could not find any place that has Thumpstar fork seals. It is a 2005 125. I am also in need of the small oring for the Fuel screw. If anyone has any help or suggestions, please let me know. Thank You!
  15. ben782

    mx time vlave jobs?

    I have had GREAT results with MXTIME. I sent out my head to him and he cut and installed the ss valves that i had sent to him. Everything worked out great. I had a valve start to go tight again and got back ahold of him and he recut my seats for me and stood 100% behind his work even though he didnt have to. That guy is running a great business and i have nothing but compliments to say!