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      2019 Zooks!   07/17/2018

      Suzuki Introduces 2019 Motocross, Dual Sport, Off-Road and Youth Models


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About PapaWheelie

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  1. I think the only way you'll get a needle seperately is if the dealer breaks apart the assembly and throws away the seat, and charges you full price anyway
  2. Now you mention it, my float showed no sign of rubbing either, so it probably makes more sense that the bulge was detected at the factory and they responded with a quick touch-up grinding to make sure clearance was available when new, OR like mentioned above, it was scraped on the way out of the mold. Looking at the direction of the scratch marks, probably the latter? Anyway, I sure feel better about the the fact that I removed the bulge to have a flat surface now though. I also feel that it's still too soon for me to tell for sure if this will be the final fix, so I may have another flooded engine in the near future. I'll be sure to update this post if so.
  3. Yeah - a new o-ring came with the needle/seat assy., and the flooding persisted after replacement. BTW - the bowl can be removed w/o removing the carb. Oh -wait - I replaced the phillips head float bowl screws with allen head screws - so YMMV. If it were me starting from the point that is before replacing the valve assy, I'd removed the bowl and try this 1st.
  4. Check out my "Battle of the Bulge" post.
  5. a photo of the defect before I got the grinder out.
  6. I think that I’ve finally fixed a problem I’ve been fighting for a while, and it looks to be a factory defect that coulda/shoulda been covered under warranty – if only I was 7 years and 12,000 miles quicker in finding it. Grab a beer and enjoy watching my head bang against the wall: During the winter of 2010, my 2005 DRZ400S wet itself, and the carpet in my toy-hauler trailer after sitting a few weeks without any attention. After sopping up the gasoline puddles and draining the engine, changing the oil, etc., I realized that for the fuel to transfer from the tank to the floor, two things need to fail – the petcock and the needle/seat assy. Of course, I attacked the easiest to access, the petcock, first. Finding a little bit of dirt & slight corrosion after 5 years didn’t surprise me, and I soon had the cleaned-up and re-assembled petcock back together. Knowing that the needle & seat also needed to be serviced didn’t stop me from taking a test ride and parking the bike without the extra effort. All was fine for the next few months with occasional rides taken, and I shrugged my shoulders and decided not to pull the carb off. Then, about a year later, it happened again. Gasoline filled cylinder, crankcase and a big puddle on the shop floor. This time I pulled the carb, and found a slight bit of dirt in the bottom of the float bowl, along with a bit in the petcock. Not as much as I thought it would take to cause problems, but some nonetheless. The needle & seat looked fine, and I reassembled everything and rode off into the sunset again. A couple of months later I pulled under a tree to wait for a shower to pass, and after a 15 minute rest, the bike barely started due to the flooded condition again. Another carb cleaning session in the comfort of the shop revealed – nothing. The petcock and the carb were both clean as a whistle, and the float needle looked fine. Reassemble w/ test drive and all was good again. Hmmmm….. my trust in this bike is beginning to fade. A couple more months pass and again I find myself changing oil & pumping gas out of the cylinder. Grrr… Another carb & petcock cleaning session was now combined with manually holding the float assembly up & down with the float bowl off just to see the fuel flow & stop, carefully measuring the float height, and conducting an overnight float test (put the float assy in a jar of gas to make sure they don’t leak and sink). After passing the float test, I decided that I would ditch the vacuum operated petcock and go with a std ON/OFF/RES unit that would positively shut off the fuel flow to the carb. That worked fine as long as I remembered to “turn the gas off dummy”, but I still was having flooding problems from a system that I thought was pretty simple to diagnose. So now, despite my diagnostic opinion of the needle/seat assy, I bit the $65 bullet and put a new needle & seat assy. in anyway. SAME PROBLEM!!! So now I’m standing at the workbench, staring at the pieces and I notice a slight bulge on the inner side of the float bowl. It sticks out only about 0.050” - right about the height of where the float seams would be. Could it be? As I look closer, it appears to have small scratches – possibly from the float rubbing against it. I’m now grasping at straws, but I theorize that over the course of the years, the pivot pin for the floats has worn just enough to allow side-play in the float action, and the floats are now sticking to this protrusion that was out-of reach with a new float/pin. Measurements on the float bowl compared to the float side play indicate that it really is possible that the float is hanging up on this bowl bulge. Out comes the die grinder and transforms the bulge into aluminum dust, leaving a nice flat wall surface inside. The float pivot pin is designed to mount off-center, so I flip the direction to get an unused surface (even though I cannot detect any wear) to help minimize lateral play. Reassembly is quick (hey – I’m getting good at this), and so far so good (2 weeks) and no flooding yet! (knock on wood). Please, please be fixed….
  7. Not that it can't be the main upper ign coil that failed, but I'd 1st look at the points and make sure that they are clean and opening properly. You'll want to use a flywheel puller (LH outer threads) to access the points and do a good job of cleaning. If your new to proper point setup tips, just say so and we'll help in that area further Back the the upper coil - the resistance through the two small wires will be very small - so make sure the ohmmeter is set properly (esp if analog). In the short time I have right now I'll just say to search for primary & secondary ohmmeter reading and I'll bet my donut & coffee that you need to look under the flywheel.
  8. Make sure your oil level in the motor is OK 1st b4 all that work. It would really suk to find out that the tranny oil transferred after the piston rings show no problems....
  9. Ahhh.. I was hoping to get a tour of the hills to the west of a little town called Granada in N. CA, near Yreka. I poked around those hills one aftrenoon and want to go back some day. Well, OK those hills are really the Siskyou Mts.
  10. Are you talking about W. of Yreka?
  11. Oh, my bad. I over looked the fact that you replaced the jets w/ others. Still, did you remove the mix screw , spray carb cleaner and air through the passages. If so, then I'm with the next most common failure and would check the upper coil for break-down when hot. Some shops have a bench tester that you can let run for a while to see if the spark fails after getting hot.
  12. I know that you said that you cleaned the carb, but I juist need to ask if you removed the pilot jet and held it up to the light and are POSITIVE that it is not partially blocked. What you describe is a classic case of the plugged pilot jet. If it starts when it is cool, are you using the choke? Does it fail to idle properly when the choke is turned off? If so, then it's the idles circuit. Pull the pilot jet and the fuel mixture screw out (don't loose the o-ring/spring/washer) and use compressed air and carb cleaner (safety glasses). Good luck.
  13. I'd like to vote, but the nine problems that I have had are not listed.
  14. I just recently had Kientech Engineering make me some new bushings so that I could switch links back & forth w/o the bushing press ritual. He only charged me $20 for the 4 bushings. Located in Oregon. Ad in the back of AMA mag.
  15. Check the oil level. Could be hydraulic locked from oil trasfering from the tranny.