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Matttys

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About Matttys

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    Ohio
  1. Matttys

    DR650 Street Tracker with Electrical Gremlins

    I'm going to check the neutral light circuit and maybe try making sure the battery is grounded. The side stand switch is removed and the circuit is looped into a completed circuit. Thanks for the compliments!
  2. Are there any electrical gurus out there? I generally don't just blast out a question, but this one has me stumped. I built a street tracker based upon a 2007 DR650 that was in excellent shape when I bought it with 3,000 miles. Here's the problem: In neutral the battery reads 12.4V, the headlights are bright and my Hyperlite tail lights modulate (half intensity with no brake and flashing with brake applied) as they should. Once I shift into any gear, the voltage INCREASES to 12.6V, the headlights dim and the LED tail lights go to a half brightness and are unresponsive to brake input; compounding this is that the headlights/LEDs remain dim, but momentarily increase in intensity with each revolution of the big 650 single's stroke. The crazy thing is that the voltage increases, but all lighting components of the bike dim. I have a new (this spring) Anti Gravity 8 cell lithium ion battery that takes a charge. Any ideas what might be causing this? I'm stumped as all components are virtually new and the stator and regulator/rectifier shouldn't be sensitive to gear position. I'm willing to provide beer, wine, liquor, cash, etc to the person that can help me crack this riddle - the bike is doing me no good taking up space in my garage with this gremlin around. Below is a picture of the bike and here is a LINK to the overview of the bike with more photos.
  3. Matttys

    WR250R/X front suspension stiction

    My stiction is about 80% gone. . . I'm calling it a success. Replaced all 4 fork seals with green SKF seals and Maxima no-drag fluid. Seems like the only real solution to get almost there.
  4. Matttys

    WR250R/X front suspension stiction

    Took some time off from the board and now I'm trying again with the forks. . . Travis at Go Race suggests new SKF fork seals that are supposed to be super slippery. Going to try that. Will post up feedback when I get them and install them. I did go try a guys WR250X and it felt a good bit more supple, but it wasn't the smoothest fork setup out there.
  5. Haha, glad I took a break from the board for a while! Posting on the other thread.
  6. I'm almost done with my rallye Lynx fairing install and I'm running into a snag: Bike runs in neutral, but when I put it in gear the bike dies. Side stand switch has been cut and soldered together. If I ground either of the 2 wires that go into the clutch switch (one tricks the bike into thinking it is in neutral) I hear a relay click and the bike will start and run in gear. Depressing the switch plunger (that mounts to the clutch behind the clutch cable) makes no difference to when the bike will run. Where does that switch connect beyond the connector between the gas tank amd above the coolant tank? Is there anything I'm overlooking? Any ideas would be great as I can then button it up and post a bunch of pictures of the completed bike
  7. Replaced that once before sending it back to Go-Race for the second time. Maybe they just ARE more sticky than regular dirt bike forks? It is a dual sport bike that is intended to carry a bit more weight? Maybe it's just the KYB forks?
  8. I just pushed on a 0 mileage WR-X at the dealer yesterday and it was pretty stictiony. . . Final test will be the broken in suspension on the WR-X from the other guy. Will report back soon-ish, but probably not too soon. Best friend is getting married in Alaska this weekend and the Mrs. and I are capitalizing on the trip to rent a KLR and ride to Deadhorse
  9. Dug through my old moto contacts and found someone that I rode with [once] back in 2009. He's got a 250X. Looks like I should know soon enough what part is tweeked.
  10. I really like the rear shock now after Go-Race had a go at it. I weight 180 without any gear.
  11. South Eastern Ohio is OK, but the rest is fairly uneventful. Where in PA are you?
  12. Now that sounds like a reason for visit! I saw a bunch of the big and small Teneres while I was honeymooning in Europe. If I had to ditch my Tiger for another bike, that would be on my short list. Hopefully parts aren't super expensive like those for the KTM, BMW or Triumph.
  13. Haha, I know what you mean. I'm an engineer that works in tech support and product development for an industrial distribution company and I really tend to get hung up on over analyzing mechanical problems that I know aren't 100% correct. Well I think everything is as lined up as it can be. My motocross neighbor [who has owned 147 motorcycles in his lifetime] just happened to have an un-opened and never used Motion Pro fork alignment tool. Double checked my work to ensure the spacing between the top and bottom forks was accurate - it was. The only other test I'm thinking about answers some of Yamaguy's ideas. . . get a thick piece of glass (or other flat, un-flexible service) that is about 8"x8" and measure if the forks have any alignment issues to one another. If I lay the glass on the top forks and the bottom forks and there is any play between the four corners of the glass then there is some mis-alignment [even though the forks may have the same spacing throughout their length]. I did ride my neighbor's 350 KTM as well as push on the suspensions of 15 bikes at my local Honda/KTM/Suzuki/etc dealer and my forks were by far a bit different from the rest.
  14. Last night I measured the static drag from full extension and full compression to find the delta between the two values with my weight on the bike. Delta was 1.5" which is totally normal. The curious thing was that when I sat on the bike I needed to put almost 3/4 of my weight on the bike before the suspension would 'jump' to it's final resting place. Mr. Go-Race and I have discussed dozens of options and I've tried many of them. He actually re-worked the forks at a very reduced cost the second time around (before I realized the stiction was the main issue).
  15. I've done every combination of all tight, some tight, only left tight and the same stiction happens every time. That's what really confuses me. If I find a second set of forks I can determine if mine are indeed bad or if it's 100% alignment.
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