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sparkymarky

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About sparkymarky

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    Idaho
  1. sparkymarky

    Ride Report -- 2009 250XC-W

    Where i notice is it is in full-on race mode, when very hard on the throttle, and the shift from 1st to 2nd kinda drops you out of the powerband, so if you're on something steep and twisty, while racing, it can get annoying. For normal trailriding, it's not really an issue to me at all, and I appreciate the tall 5th gear for dirt road transfer sections.
  2. mx tires are not really designed for maximum traction off-road, they are designed for predictable traction at high cornering speeds (meaning they slide in a predictable fashion, not suddenly). That's a totally different animal. In sand or loose dry dirt, a trials tire flattens out with a larger contact patch and 'grips' the dirt instead of digging in and moving a lot of dirt around. IMHO, dry loose stuff, like you see in many western states in the mountains in the summertime, is where a trials tire absolutely dogs up a knobby. In the rocks, it's pretty much same same. A knobby, even a beat up worn chunked one, works awesome in bare rock in my experience. Maxxis is the title sponsor of endurocross. Maxxis doesn't make a trials tire. You do the math. I think it was embarassing them that no one used their tires in the races they sponsored.
  3. sparkymarky

    Where's Hot Pipes?

    Are you bagging on me for bagging on someone else for bagging on a third party? I hope you don't think that's ok. Lol, this is way too serious.
  4. sparkymarky

    Where's Hot Pipes?

    If you want I'll send you the $6 I was gonna send the other guy. Seriously.... I personally am an optimistic and trusting person, and so I personally tend to cut people I know or identify with a little extra slack in stuff like this. If I order from the TT store, or from a TT or ktmtalk member who has a business, and something goes a little wrong, I make the assumption that I'm dealing with an honest person who may just be busy or gosh knows what, and I try to be patient about working it out. I find that people are generally easier to deal with when I don't brag about 'calling them out', or whatever, but that's just me. Everyone has their own way of dealing with things. People are usually nice to me tho, so I'm pretty happy with the way my positive method is working so far. I admit a few of us may have misread earlier and unfairly jumped on the poster desiring the refund. I removed those posts and pm'd him an apology and explanation. Perhaps that has something to do with why he is also being a little more friendly and less confrontational now. Of course, if I didn't live in Idaho, I would probably be in a really cranky and pi$$ed-off mood all the time, so who knows how I'd act.
  5. sparkymarky

    Ride Report -- 2009 250XC-W

    This depends a little on your riding style and terrain. I think the xcw tranny is a little gappy in 1,2,3 for aggressive riding and racing, but the sx tranny (my other bike) is either a little tall 1st for technical woods or a little short on top for the desert, so i swap 13/14t sprockets. That's just the limitations of a 5spd tranny. Many people don't even notice an issue with the xcw until they are riding aggressively on a borrowed sx or xc or japanese mx-er, then they're like 'woohoo, cool.'
  6. sparkymarky

    Ride Report -- 2009 250XC-W

    sweet, I think a 7.6 is probably a better bet for you anyway. Depending on your speed/aggression, you may want to bump up to .44 fork springs eventually too. where'd you end up buying the bike?
  7. sparkymarky

    Ride Report -- 2009 250XC-W

    Hey dave, you definitely need a stiffer spring. I prefer the 7.2 and i weigh 15 lbs less than you. I can loan you one for a few days if you want to try before you commit to buying one, but I can't sell you my spare (we use it in the mountains). I have had good luck finding 7.2 and 7.6 springs used on ktmtalk for $50-60. They were stock on the 07 200 and 250's, and on the old geometry were too light for most people, just like your 6.9 is too light for you now.
  8. sparkymarky

    Feedback pls - tech articles

    Maybe make the default pic smaller, so that articles with a real pic stand out. The repeated wrench icon is kinda jarring and doesn't add useful information.
  9. sparkymarky

    fork seal leak?

    Good suggestion . I may try that if it every happens again, at least when the oil is new enough that I don't need an excuse to change the oil anyway.
  10. sparkymarky

    Where's Hot Pipes?

    I would suggest you pm hotpipestam to make sure they got the email. I know dave just got back from 3 weeks in singapore for work, and is also involved in getting the new transponder scoring system rolled out for our first race of the year. I know most people outside the area have no idea what may be going on here locally, so it makes sense they might be more concerned about the lack of info.
  11. sparkymarky

    Hard work is paying off

    Almost looks like someone created a whole new account just to post in this thread and bust on someone else.
  12. sparkymarky

    2006 200 xc-w Fuel Range/Tank Size?

    Depending on terrain, I have ridden anywhere from 74-98 miles without hitting reserve. I tend to lug the motor a bit tho, and not ride all that much on the pipe on those longer rides.
  13. +1. Modern 250's have a pretty reasonable powerband, and I find them very easy to ride in technical terrain, and much less likely to stall in rocks with my riding style. I think the OP was talking about 125's, which are fun, but don't really suit my riding style for most of riding (technical mountain trails).
  14. sparkymarky

    fork seal leak?

    This does pretty much work, but imho also pushes some of the trapped dirt up past the seals into the workings of the fork. I don't really like the idea of dirt in my forks, since the internals are expensive and might wear with dirt added to the oil. I would prefer to take the 45-60 mins to just take the forks apart and clean the seals properly.
  15. sparkymarky

    fork seal leak?

    seals don't 'blow'. They leak for 3 main reasons: 1. excessive air pressure buildup. i have had some WP forks that built up air pretty fast. every few rides (better yet every ride) unscrew the bleeder screws on the top of the fork. they are normally little phillips head screws. If you get a crapload of air coming out, that may have been your problem. you can get pushbutton bleeder screws to make this easy. I put them on all my bikes. 2. dirt in the seals. this typically happens after mud rides, or especially if you let the mud dry on the fork leg then ride more. The mud gets forced up between the seal lips and lets oil leak by. It's best to fix this problem by dismantling the forks and cleaning the seals if they are fairly new, or replacing them if they are old. 3. a burr on the fork leg damages the seals. They must be replaced if this happens, and the burr must be polished out. replacing seals is not very difficult if you know what you are doing and are methodical. if you haven't worked on bikes much, I would get someone experienced to help you. The main tool you need is a seal driver to install the new seals, and a fairly slender 22mm wrench to remove the fork springs, and then you'll have to have new fork oil and set it to the right level. not hard, but too involved for this post. if i were you i would try #1. open the bleed screws, then reinstall them, then go ride and see if you get more leakage.
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