MrAWD

Members
  • Content count

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About MrAWD

  • Rank
    TT Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Massachusetts
  • Interests
    Drag racing, riding, snowboarding
  1. I don't really get to feel like a god cruising some of these gorgeous mountain views. But here are a few shots from my kneck of the woods...Massachusetts
  2. I too have purchased the baja designs light kit for my E model. Great kit, well put together. Fits like a glove. On a side note I will sell one of my kidneys on the black market to get one of those muff diver liscence plate frames. Where did you find that?
  3. I've always been told you can't polish a terd... In your case I think you can get away with it. Nice find. Now fixer up and go beat the back out of it.
  4. Thanks for the reply. Its just a little discerning to see components that look very different. Although this kit seems to function just fine. The smaller diameter does appear to leave the inner seal a little less protected. Like every swingarm thread out there, I'll be paying much more attention to this portion of the bike. Regular PM's to your bike will certainly alleviate some future headaches...lesson learned. Thanks again everyone...oh and this forum Rocks:cheers:
  5. FYI I finally spoke with a Tech from ALL BALLS. He told me that due to cost savings, the inner race IS supposed to be that size. No harm will come from using it.
  6. Yes the Inner diameter is the same as well as the outer. The only difference is the outer collar of the race. I suppose it should do the same thing. The seal sits right behind that collar. The only major thing I can see wrong with the picture is that the new race would allow more dirt and grime to come into contact with the seal. The OEM completely covers the inner seal by overlapping the seal and swingarm. I would have used the OEM race but, I've already spent many hours pulling the pivot shaft out due to lack of grease. One of my inner races is totally hosed.
  7. That would be great. At least I can confirm if I have the wrong size in my kit. Im going to press the bearings tonight and see where I get.
  8. For people searching for this topic the teflon surface (yellow) faces towards the outside of the bike and is sandwiched by two washers.
  9. For those who haven't purchased Acerbis plastics. The thickness of the plastic is thinner than the OEM plastic. Not a big deal but if you try and use the factory countersunk washers there will be a little bit of play. You will bottom out the mounting hardware before fully securing the plastic. The shrouds for example will have a little slop. An easy fix is to buy new shiny hardware and use regular flat washer. FWIW
  10. I should probably add that I bought these from TT parts store. I ordered these under the 03 KLX make and model. That should narrow the selection quite a bit. This kit does say all makes and models as seen above.
  11. Hey guys I've done a fair share of searching and I've found some great info. Im in the middle of slapping new bearing and seals in my 03 KLX. I've figured out the teflon thrust bearing thanks to the forum. One thing I can't find is any info on the inner race. All balls included new inner races and the collar on the new races are smaller in diameter than my OEM races. Did they package my kit wrong or will these work the same. The smaller races just fall through the inner diameter of the swing arm. This pic is taken with nothing installed in the bore. Has anyone else come across this? Am I being anal yet again? Will these do the same job? Thanks in advance for the help. Oh and love this board. :banghead:
  12. I wonder if it comes with that fancy kick stand? More than likely no.
  13. Then: Now: I still have a ton of work to do (maintenance/mods). The weather is now finally nice again. These New England Winters sure do take a beating on my bike.
  14. I've disassembled a couple LED blinkers to reveal internal resistors wired to the small boards the LED's are mounted to. All LED light systems require resistors to pull the correct amount of current for the LED's. I can't recall what manufacturer I was purchasing but a small comparison test with a normal bulb and a LED light with a mutlimeter should reveal a close resistance. The current draw on LED's is very minimal. A combination of resistors can be used to recreate the current draw of a normal incadenscent light. From what I remember the packaging of the LED lights don't usually give you any detailed info on the lights though. Im now running a baja designs light kit with LED's in the front and incandescents in the rear. I have the standard clicking flasher can. The flash rate is slow not fast. I've also ran LED's in the rear with the same blinker can combination and the flash rate remained the same. The only problem for me with the rear were the kept getting taken out from trail thrashing. I went with a flush mount light from a street bike front fering and I haven't looked back since. Good Luck
  15. Most LED blinkers now a days have internal resistors already wired up. Just solder and go. They recreate the same resistance a normal bulb would have therfore no modifications to the relay.