swerve3964

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About swerve3964

  • Rank
    TT Newbie

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  • Location
    Michigan
  • Interests
    riding, golf, fishing, weights
  1. All, Thanks for the tips you guys! I'm going to start with the simplest one (backing off the rebound in the front) and then I'll go from there (onward and upward to the more expensive ones). Just have to wait till I get up north for the w/e and I'll begin experimenting. BTW, all the changes were made do to my physical specs: 6 ft tall, 230lbs, 31 in inseam. (Which is also why I went with the gel seat.) The whole idea was to gain better control over the S, which I have grown very fond of. Beacause of this, I doubt I'll slip the tubes back down in the forks which may solve this problem but put me back to square one. Take care guys and thanks again! Swerve3964
  2. Yep, I kept the oil level the same and double-checked the clickers to make sure they're the same--still the shake persists. I have to push forward hard on the grips to keep the bars from shaking slightly starting at about 65mph, and vigorously at my top speed of 91mph. What's a Scott's?
  3. Yeah, I hear ya BassMan. I turned up the rebound damping while I was experimenting in the sandy trails I ride and noticed a huge improvement in that area. But my high speed pavement control is now suffering for it. It's like going from one extreme condition to the other. Guess I'm trying to get the best of both worlds....
  4. Yep, front and rear have both been lowered about 3/4 in., did that to keep the frame geometry the same. What's a steering dampner? How much are they?
  5. Hey Guys, I’ve got a 2006 S. A problem has developed after swapping out my fork springs (for Racetech 5.0’s), and rear shock spring (for a Racetech 6.0) and adding a #1 Kouba Link. You guessed it---headshake. The faster I go, the more noticeable it becomes. (I'm talking on the street). I set my race sag standing on the pegs with all my riding gear on at 3.9 inches. I’ve been playing with the settings ever since. Since I ride in northern Michigan, most of the trails I face are sandy as hell, so I have to keep my compression clickers close to, if not maxed. But at times, when I do jaunts on the highways, the headshake is formidable. BTW, I slid the front fork tubes up in the triple clamp about ¾ in. (One of the first things I did when I bought it.) That’s why I felt okay to put the Kouba Link on the rear to compensate afterward. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
  6. I wish I would've ran into you before I plunked down almost 6K OTD for my '06! By the time you read this, I'm sure it'll already be sold.
  7. Get him a Yamaha TW200. I just got my 13yr old one--he loves it. It has extra wide tires that make it stable in loose stuff, it's mellow and forgiving, it has a low center of gravity, and he won't outgrow it in a single season. They're also very low maintenance, so they're easy on the pocketbook. It's a great starter bike. My son is 5' 6" and about 125. I got him a used 2000 and it cost me around $2K. swerve3964
  8. Thanks, but I'm already locked in........next time! Swerve3964
  9. To any interested cold weather diehards: Going riding this last semi-cold weekend with my son in the Black Lake/Mountain area. Friday possibly, Saturday definitely. We're both just average riders: I'm just getting back into it after 20yrs away and he's a beginner. I've got a DRZ400S, he's got a TW200. We usually ride for awhile, grab something to eat at one of the local places out in the woods (like The Bluffs), and then ride some more. If anyone's planning to ride that area let me know and maybe we can hook up and hit the trails. Swerve3964
  10. Thanks Burned! The bike is currently up north where I ride (MI), when I get up there this w/e, that's the first thing I'll check. BTW, I'm going to do the 3X3 mod and rejet. It'll never see over a thousand feet elevation. I plan to leave the exhaust stock only because I hate excessive noise. What kit, parts, settings should I use when I do the carb work? Appreciate it!
  11. After removing my tank to install a new CR8EK that everyone raves about, I have what seems to be a vaccuum leak too. Where is this vaccuum line at? Is it just the one coming off the bottom of the pedcock that goes to the carb? My bike ('06 S) idles way high, won't stay running unless on "prime", and backfires slightly upon decceleration. It seems to be running way lean. Please advise!
  12. I just did this fix myself. Take the shoulder bolt out. Take it up to the hardware, and find a washer for it that has an i.d. that fits the bolt (over the shoulder) and an o.d. that's not any larger (or at least not too much larger) than the hex head. While you have it apart, put some good lever lube on the shoulder of the bolt, as well as the flat sufaces that make contact on the lever and holder. Make sure to put the nylok back on the bottom when you're done. One washer should be enough to give you the adjustment room you need to tighten it up so it feels good to use. If you over tighten the stock setup, you'll simply snap the bolt and have to buy a new one, which is what happened to me. Might as well get 2 washers and correct the sloppy front brake lever while you're at it. Hope this helps.
  13. 5.1 in. works out to just under 130 mm. I just installed Metzeler Karoos on my 400S. I went with 140/80 in the rear, 90/90 in the front. No clearance problems what-so-ever. These sizes did raise the bike 1mm in front and 4mm in the rear, which was hardly noticeable. I ride in northern Michigan where there's alot of sand in the trails. The improvement over the stock trailwings has been dramatic. I'll just have to wait and see how long they last since I also do a significant amount of pavement riding as well.