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About jgb2000

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  1. This is exactly how I toast it. Instead of using a 9V battery I used the bike battery which should be a similar voltage. I guess my problem was not identifying correctly the positive and negative terminals at the injector side. How do you know which is which?
  2. Does anyone know how to confirm a broken fuel injector? Don't ask me how I may have toast it but it has to do with trying to clean it and connecting a battery to it. I have re-installed everything and the bike doesn't start. I removed the air filter and with a lamp tried to see if there is any fuel sprayed while starting and can't identify any. Is there another way to diagnose this without the ECU computer? It looks like a new injector is worth around $130 bucks. Ouch!
  3. I'm looking into buying a Spoke Torque Wrench to be used in my 2011 KTM 350 SX-F rear wheel. According to the OEM part finder, the rear nipple is a M4,5 AL 11 but all the tool tip measurements are in mm. Does someone knows what tip I need to make sure the kit includes to use in the rear and front wheel? The most common tips are 6.1, 6.3, 6.5, 6.7 mm but I don't believe those will fit my KTM rims. HELP PLEASE!
  4. Thank you so much KTMolle. Looking forward to your instructions!
  5. KTMolle... I guess you don't already have the manual with you, right? If so can you please let me know what it says to remove the Clutch Cover CPL? A screenshot will do!
  6. I made a small crack to the Clutch Cover CPL and in order to put some QuickSteel epoxy I'd like to do it from the inside. The cover doesn't come out until first removing the coolant impeller and circlip (I guess).
  7. Thanks KTMolle. I have just ordered mine. Eurodave even when removing the impeller and h20 cover it is still holding the clutch cover. It's loose everywhere except where the shaft is holding it. We are already discussing this on the other thread so let's continue there. THANKS!
  8. Thanks Speedbot and Eurodave. I was able to remove the plastic impeller from the shaft. Now the problem is that the shaft (with the seal ring, the circlip and the ball bearing) is still holding the clutch cover and I can not remove it. I assume that taking out the circlip will release the cover but I just can not get to it without removing first the seal ring (part 0760153045). Is there a way to remove it without breaking it? Picture is worth a thousand words. Take a look at http://gallery.me.com/javier.garza#100133/IMG_0003&bgcolor=black
  9. jgb2000

    2011 skid plates

    No idea but if you are going to use it for enduro I will go with a much more protective area. I have already cracked the clutch plate for using a Works Connections Glade Plate. Check our Rikochet and Hyde Racing as they are about to release full skid plates.
  10. jgb2000

    Changing the oil on KTM 350 SX-F

    Don't worry about the amount you pre-fill. Just one one full liter between the filter and the main area. From there go by eye with the little window next to the brake pedal. I usually use from 1.0 to 1.2 liters depending on how much my patience and time allows to fully drain. The manual says the oil should fill up to half of the window when the bike is cold.
  11. Has anyone got a hold of a 350 SXF Repair Manual that can let me know how to remove the clutch case CPL? I just can not find the manual anywhere on the internet.
  12. Does anyone have step-by-step instructions on removing the clutch cover CPL case? It's not only the outer clutch cover but the whole part (77230001044) that bolts to the engine case. I'm am specifically stuck at getting the impeller shaft out.
  13. From the parts fiche manual I can see there is a circlip below the shaft seal ring but I just can not take out the seal (shown in blue here in the picture). If I talk out the seal and remove the clip will the case come out? Any ideas on how to remove the seal without breaking it? https://www.me.com/gallery/#100133/IMG_0003
  14. jgb2000

    350sxf gearing

    Definitely post a pic with the headlight! Do you have the part number?