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lousymechanic

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About lousymechanic

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    California
  1. lousymechanic

    Buying a DR350

    Price depends a lot on where you live. $1900 might be high for where you are because prices here in CA Bay Area are usually much higher than elsewhere and that price sounds just on the high side of about right for here. If those 7k miles are mostly dirt or dual sport then the motor might be kind of tired.
  2. lousymechanic

    Clutch drag.. normal?

    That was the problem with my bike. When I had it bored out I made sure to replace those clutch parts as well. No more creeping. On the kickstart only versions that drag in the clutch makes the bike harder to start as well. Some of the energy from the kick gets wasted because it goes into making the bike try to roll.
  3. lousymechanic

    Valve seal replacement

    If your valve seals are bad, chances are the valves and seats need a little love too, and the rings as well. If you are into the motor far enough to change the seals you may as well pull the whole top end. I've taken apart a bunch of japanese bike engines and I've never seen one where you could do what you are suggesting.
  4. lousymechanic

    91 dr 350 carb settings

    135 main and 37.5 pilot were stock on my bike. 2 turns out on the idle screw is a good starting point if someone messed with it. Have you had one of these before? They can be hard to start when cold. The older they get, the harder.
  5. lousymechanic

    Weeble Wobble

    Yep. Moving your butt back will usually stop it. If you can go faster, accelerating up a few miles an hour will also usually help. My 350 wobbles between 72 and 74 mph, but not below or above.
  6. lousymechanic

    Replacement Turn Signals

    Your local moto shops should sell aftermarket knockoffs of all kinds of stock turn signals, plus carry some that are new creations that are supposed to look cooler than stock. Prices should be way cheaper than OEM.
  7. lousymechanic

    DR350 w/ Thumper Racing 435 kit. Anyone get the stock carb to work?

    That site hasn't been updated in a while. The catalog they sent me has prices about 10% higher. And they've replaced the 435 kit with a 441 kit. Pretty much the same otherwise.
  8. lousymechanic

    DR350 w/ Thumper Racing 435 kit. Anyone get the stock carb to work?

    The idle circuit is being adjusted for each change, yes. I was very suspicious of the whole low speed circuit because of the way the bike was acting, so it has been shot full of solvent and compressed air many times. It's all good and now that the float needle works small tuning changes actually do what you expect. I could tell the 40 pilot is too lean and the 45 was too rich, although the mixture screw could compensate pretty well for either. Looks like the 42.5 pilot and 145ish main are going to be about right. As for the other question, the kit and pricing are described in an online catalog: http://www.thumper-racing.net/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?45X362143 It cost about $90 for me to UPS the motor to them from California. The cost is very reasonable to have them do the work. They also put in new valves for me as the originals were toast, so that made it a bit more expensive, but again it seemed very reasonable.
  9. lousymechanic

    DR350 w/ Thumper Racing 435 kit. Anyone get the stock carb to work?

    There's an annual ride coming up this weekend. I've done it like 4 years in a row now and it is a good deadline to get me off my * to fix the bike. Eventually I got suspicious that the float needle was not sealing. After replacing it the bike started acting in a more predictable way. Before, it was inconsistent and seemed rich, probably due to a fuel level that was too high. After, it would only run on full choke which said it was lean, which finally made sense, since the big bore and the pipe should both want more fuel. The big bore kit came with a 40 slow and 140 main. The 40 is probably about right. Maybe a 42.5. There's a 145 main in the bike right now and it still seems lean. At this point I am stoked because it looks like I'm close enough that there is plenty of time to finish fine tuning it before the ride this weekend. Just thought I'd follow up on this in case anyone else runs into the same problem and is searching for results.
  10. lousymechanic

    DR350 w/ Thumper Racing 435 kit. Anyone get the stock carb to work?

    Made some time this weekend to work on it. Replaced the o-ring on the head side of the intake boot just to make sure nothing was leaking in there. Confirmed that the carb was in good shape and that the valves were adjusted properly. After a bit of trial and error I found that it worked best with the smallest slow jet I had, and full lean on the pilot screw. That seems strange since the guys who sell the big bore kit AND the pipe both say go richer. Even though I got it so it would idle (if you call 3k an idle) on the choke, it won't idle at anything less than full choke. Getting it so I could take both hands off the bike and it would still run was a big improvement, since now I could move around the bike and comfortablyl mess with the pilot screw, or check vents or whatever. Next up, smaller slow jets.
  11. lousymechanic

    How to mount carb to head propperly...

    Use a new o-ring if the old one has hardened up. It should do the job all by itself, dry.
  12. lousymechanic

    DR350 w/ Thumper Racing 435 kit. Anyone get the stock carb to work?

    The motor was just completely rebuilt by Thumper Racing. The valves are new and correctly adjusted. The engine doesn't hang either. If you shut the throttle it dies quite promptly. I do wonder if something is wrong other than the carb though, but if the bike runs fine at high rpm/high throttle opening, there isn't much I can point to as a likely problem. I would have though that although the stock carb might not make the best power, it would at least be workable. But if no one is using it in this configuration, it is hard to get advice for it.
  13. lousymechanic

    DR350 w/ Thumper Racing 435 kit. Anyone get the stock carb to work?

    Yes, I've been trying to get the stock street model carb to work. Do you know what jetting you've got in your carb? The jets Thumper Racing sent me were for the dirt model carb, so I am guessing the 140 main/40 slow would be a good starting point. Is the suzuki dealer the only source for the dirt model carb? Hmm. Normally when I check eBay there is nothing, but there is one on there right now. Any idea what these things usually go for? Thanks!
  14. After many years of faithful service in stock configuration, when the motor got really tired I decided to rebuild it and do a thorough refresh of the whole bike. New chain and sprocks, new front rotor, FMF Q pipe and sent the motor to Thumper Racing to have them rebuild it top to bottom and install the 435 kit. Got it back and put it all together, including the jetting they provided for the carb (yes, I tore the airbox a new one as they suggest). I searched around here on the other 350 big bore threads, but it doesn't look like anyone else even tried to make the stock carb work. Is this a lost cause? I would think I'd be able to at least get the bike to run with it, but it won't run below 2k. If you are lucky enough to get it to start you can keep it above 2.5k on the gas. Between 2 and 2.5, it is tough to keep it going. If you try and let it idle it just dies. I've tried both the kit jetting (140 main and 40 slow jet) and the stock jetting (135 main, 37.5 slow) and tried the pilot screw from 1 to 3 turns with both jet combos. None of that helped. If you think I should just ditch the carb, a recommendation for a specific substitute would be much appreciated. A friend of mine is pushing me to get the Keihin FCR39, and there is one recommendation I've seen for a Mikuni TM36, but in neither case did anyone try and justify how they arrived at that decision, which I am interested to hear.
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