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      JUST IN!   04/24/2018

      HOW TO: 4-STROKE PISTON REPLACEMENT DONE RIGHT!

Beast Monkey

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About Beast Monkey

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    TT Member

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    New York
  1. the pegs idea is cool but those are just threaded onto the axle and are gonna wreck the axles and threads when any real weight is put onto them.
  2. You need to install the carb first for sure, then reattach the cables.
  3. I read all the posts here and on the other thread where you said your first race was last month...No need to argue, I'll admit I consider myself a beginner, and I have been riding motocross tracks for 6 years, and even raced some. Just from reading your various posts, I feel your "help" to people has generally been incorrect or misinformed.
  4. Oh and '96CR, you're just digging yourself into a hole man, quit before you make a complete fool out of yourself. There's no need to argue with those clearly older and wiser than you.
  5. One thing that hasnt been said about jump uncertainty is to follow other people that you see making the jump well and gauge your speed off of them. First ask people what gear and throttle position is needed to clear the jump, then follow somone else over it who is clearing it. As you follow them, you'll realize that you are in the exact gear/rpm range that you were told to be in, boosting your confidence and chances of landing safely.
  6. Yes, its prelubed and has a set length.
  7. So basically there should be only .003 of rocker movement before it hits either cam or valve stem at TDC?
  8. Ok, I saw those numbers in the manual, I think it said .002 and .003, but it said to measure that gap between the cam lobe and rocker arm. Through the valve adjustment cover I can't even really see the lobe, let alone adjust the gap. Can I just measure it where the rocker touches the end of the valve stem? That seems to me to be the same measurement. Shawn--Thanks--I have already cleaned the carb endlessly as well as checked the points, timing, cams, ect. If this doesnt work I'm pretty positive there must be some other problem with the exhaust valve, a stuck spring or something.
  9. Dont drill it use an easy-out from the hardware store. Its basically a reverse threaded drill bit for removing broken bolts.
  10. I've read the manual for hours trying to figure this out but it just doesnt mention it anywhere. The rocker arms have threaded pins in them, with locking nuts, allowing adjustment in the amount of play before the rocker arm pin begins to push the valves down. No where does it mention how much play there is supposed to be... Before it was taken apart, the bike had a lot of trouble revving up, like the exhaust was plugged up, and upon removing the valve covers the exhaust valve rocker pin appeared to be very loose, so that the exhaust valve was probably not completely opening. Anyone that has an opinion of the proper gap, please impart me some of your knowledge.
  11. Pitscar--as a poor college kid in your same position, use the snow goggles. I have all of my riding career, over 5 years, and I can honestly say it doesnt make much difference. If you are used to being careful and keeping your snow goggles from fogging, you'll be fine. I use cheap pairs, clear lenses, because they will get badly scratched eventually and you'll have to replace them. They fit fine inside the helmet. I've used both tinted oakley O frames (bad for dense woods), and currently a $20 pair of clear Scotts.
  12. Jumping techniques are different on 2 smokes and 4 strokes. Letting off the gas on a 4 stroke while the bike is still on the lip is just asking to nosedive as the engine braking of a 4 stroke motor is quite powerful. On a 2 stroke it doesnt matter as much. To properly learn to jump a 4 stroke, start on a jump with a long run up where you can reach the speed necessary to clear the jump, and hold that speed constant off the lip with constant throttle application, whether that be 1/4, 3/4 or whatever. Once clear of the lip, ease off the throttle if you have good trajectory, or chop it and apply a little back brake if you are flying too much nose high. And always remeber to roll on the throttle as you land whenever possible.
  13. Just in case anyone searching wants to know, neither the pilot or the starting jet go through into the carb throat, both angle inwards to the bottom of the main jet. Redid the carb cleaning this morning, put it back together, and she fired right up. Thanks TT...
  14. Well anyways, I bent it back this morning, with the aid of a steel pipe for a lever but I did not use any heat. It's significantly better than before but still not perfect. I used a 6 foot bar and was actually suspending myself in the air (I weigh about 175) and bouncing slightly to bend it back. It took much more force than I expected...
  15. I crashed on my YZ250F and tweaked the aluminum subframe slightly. I really don't have the money to fix it properly right now with a new subframe so I was wondering what techniques there are to straighten it myself or fairly cheaply. The frame has no cracks, so I tried clamping the topside down to a flat surface, making it square again, but as soon as I release the clamps, the frame twists back. How do I make my corrections permanent?