zerbitini

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About zerbitini

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Location
    Kansas
  • Interests
    DRZ400S
  1. Thanks for the feedback guys.. sorry no video as I was too busy flipping/rolling through the woods. Yokomo - I am in Shawnee - far west out by the Kansas river. Where are you?
  2. I'm fortunate that my house backs up to lots of acreage, and I've cut a lot of riding trails through the trees and ravines. I got a little overconfident on my 2006 DRZ S on Friday, and took a pretty good spill at speed, and all 300 pounds of DRZ came down on my right achilles. Fortunately I had good boots on, and escaped with only a few bruises on my 52 year old carcass. Now my fork is twisted in relation to the handlebars. I've read many of the posts from others who had the same problem, and have a couple of questions (that I should have been able to figure out the answers to): 1) are the "lower triple clamps" the clamps that are located at the top of the fork boots (just below the headlight)? If so, it sounds like I loosen the two bolts on the outside of these clamps? 2) then, loosen the axle pinch bolts, and either a) force the handlebars back in line while holding the front wheel between my legs, or put the front wheel against a wall and pump the front end to get things straightened out. Is one of these two options - a) or - better than the other? Thanks in advance for the help!
  3. Not required by law in any state I've lived in. First "mod" I did to my S was to remove it. Just pull the seat, remove two bolts and you're set.
  4. DaveI, Epoxy garage floor paint works great. I have built 6 houses, and used the epoxy on the last two garage floors. It cost me $300 to do a three stall garage, plus two full days of prep and painting. I used the paint from Griot's Garage (car accessories). The only downside is the paint will chip if you drop a sharp tool on it. Otherwise, it holds up fine against solvents, oil, brake fluid, etc.
  5. My tank and petcock also hit the choke knob on my FCR MX, and it is a VERY tight fit. A plastic lid from a margarine container solves my problem. I just lower the tank until it contacts the choke knob, and then I slip the plastic lid between the two surfaces, and then gently pull/slide the tank down past the choke knob. If you put the lip of the plastic lid over the choke knob, you don't even have to hold it (it stays in place). Works very well!
  6. I haven't seen anyone with this problem before.... but somehow, I managed to destroy my horn button. Must have been one of my "ungraceful getoffs" in the woods. The sides of the button are still intact, but the face is gone. It must have taken a direct hit from a stump or a rock. The rest of the housing is fine, and the horn works. Does anyone know where a replacement can be found? Hopefully I can just get the horn button itself. Thanks in advance!
  7. Sweet.... almost as nice as the Montgomery Ward, Tecumseh powered, centrifugal clutch mini-bike my brothers and I had back in the late 60's. You have a lucky son!
  8. Enduros are what some of us Geezers rode back in the 70's. It is hard to break old habits, so we sometimes refer to our Dual Sports as Enduros. (but we do know what an SM is!)
  9. esad, I had the ZipTy fuel screw, along with the FCR-MX kit, and it did not work at all. I was debating returning it - as you are. But... as you'll read in subsequent posts, if you follow Burned's advice, and remove the 100 pilot air jet, and replace the 45 pilot jet with a 42 pilot jet. the ZipTy works fine. p.s. to viktobravo: why order the pilot jet from Sudco? All the local cycle dealerships have them - at least in the KC area.
  10. Ditto what lovematt said. I was having the FCR-MX bog issue that several others have had, and neither the original FCR-MX fuel screw, nor the aftermarket ZipTy fuel screw was having any effect. So, using Ed's recommendations, I pulled the 100 pilot air jet out, and put in a 42 pilot jet since I'm using the ZipTy fuel screw. I have a stock exhaust, and the 155 main jet. The results???? The bog is gone, and throttle response is instantaneous! The FCR-MX pulls HARD, and lofting the front wheel is too easy. I'm thinking that this was all an elaborate ruse to give us repeated experience pulling, and replacing our carbs! Seriously.... trying the different jets was educational and worth the time and effort. Thanks Eddie!
  11. As txrider points out; when reinstalling the tank, the clearance between the tank and the choke knob is very tight. In addition to lubing the rubber doughnuts, I found that slipping a margarine container lid (or other slick plastic lid) between the two, allows the tank to slip right on.
  12. I switched to a 40 PJ on my FCR-MX from TT store to take care of the low end bog, and burbling.... and the burbling is gone, but it still isn't as crisp as the old (re-jetted) BSR off of idle. Runs strong otherwise. Strangely, my fuel screw has to be turned all the way in still for the bike to run well. If I back it out at all, it will start stumbling. I'm also wondering if I need to go down to a smaller PJ???
  13. By the way.... Sears has the set of ball end hex key wrenches on sale, through today.
  14. They make allen wrenches with "speed tips" on them that allow you to screw in the bolts at a slight angle. I got a set from Bike Nashbar last year, and use them all the time. Usually, the bicycle mail order houses have them on sale this time of year (Nashbar or Performance Bike). You can also get them at Sears, or a hardware store. They make the job easier and faster.
  15. I had the same issue as Eagledriver and Chainlash. The airbox boot seemed too short. No problem with carb clearance though. The carb sits in straight and I have 1/8" clearance for the throttle cables without moving the engine mounts. I'm installing the smaller 42 pilot jet this weekend to fix the off-idle bog.