Sparrowhawk

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About Sparrowhawk

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    Washington
  1. No matter where you live you can pick out a single tax or fee, be outraged and whine about being ripped off or over taxed. Washington has the fifth highest sales tax in the US but the lowest income tax (0%). Washington is middle of the road compared to other states when you look at state & local tax burden as a percent of personal income, 28th place at 9.3%. Idaho has the same 9.3% rate (lower tax burden per capita but also lower income per capita). State & local taxes average around 10% of personal income and don't vary much between states (the normal range is between 8 - 11%). New York is the highest at 12.7% and Alaska is low because of all the oil money at 6.5%. States differ greatly in the mechanisms they use to collect revenue but do not differ that much in how much they collect.
  2. If the bike has a CV carb, simply opening the throttle doesn't do much when checking compression. You need to either remove the carb or prop the slide open.
  3. This may seem counterintuitive but it often helps to ride over the larger rocks, within reason, instead of avoiding them. Larger rocks tend to stay put and are more predictable where smaller ones roll around under you.
  4. It will be good. I just had mt left knee replaced last November. I'm closer to 60 yo than 50 but am fit and participate in mountain biking, cyclocross, tele skiing, water skiing, etc. I started riding my dirt bike again this spring and to tell you the truth, I'm a stronger rider now than before because pain was getting in the way. I had to lay off skiing this winter but my surgeon says go next. Here's the deal the way it was explained to me. The knee replacement will be just about as sturdy as the knee you were born with before it went bad. There are two primary things to consider for the long term after knee replacement. Things like running (many small impacts) will wear the metal and plastic bits faster than they would otherwise. You can do it but you'll be back in the shop for a rebuild sooner than if you don't. Bicycling is very good for knee replacement rehab and causes no harm. I was back (carefully) riding my 12 mile commute two months after surgery. Another patient rode across the US with his son 6 months post op. Just don't fall early on (see below). Large impacts are a bad thing. Bone has a little flexibility while the metal parts of an implant do not. The interface between bone and metal creates stress points that can lead to ugly fractures that are difficult or impossible to repair. The mesage here is that you can do any activity you want but if you take a big hit to the knee the risk of irrepairable damage is increased over a normal knee. The surgeon may not be able to put it back together if you break it or it may not heal right. The bone/metal interface strengthens significantly over time but it will forever be a potential weak point for blunt force trauma. So I ride my dirt bike with the understanding it's a higher risk. I am a little more careful not to injure my knee and wear a beefy Ossur CTI brace all the time I ride any motorcycle and will do the same skiing. The brace isn't needed for stability. I wear it like a helmet or roost protector to take some of the energy in case of impact. These braces are as expensive as a top of the line helmet but way cheaper than a stay in the hospital. I love my new knee! I'm back climbing mountains which I couldn't do before because of the pain of walking downhill. If you decide to go for it, do exactly what the doc and PT tells you for the first two months. Take it on like a job. Work at it but don't overdo it. The results are well worth the extra effort.
  5. That's what a time warp will do. In 1970 the 499 cc, 54 hp, 405 lb., 2t triple Kawasaki Mach III was the quickest thing you could buy on wheels. It gave me a boner to whack the throttle in the first 3 gears when it was on the band. There was no way to keep the front wheel on the ground. Now it doesn't even compare to the 654 cc, 62 hp, 305 lb. KTM 690R. Speaking of the 690R, the biggest owner complaint is the narrow six-speed tranny (now the third narrowest production six-speed tranny after Husky's TE 250/310 and 449/511 and still wider than BMW's 5-speed G450X). Of course, the TE 630 has about the same power, weighs the same, costs $1,000 less than the 690, and has a great tranny.
  6. I just went back and started from the begining for grins and giggles. So, anything wider than a 25 year old Honda CR500R 5-speed is "wide ratio"? The TE 449/511 is 2.49:1 from first to sixth. (Note - scroll way down between the 5-speed Aprilia 550 twin and the 5-speed DRZ 400.) Thank Montesa vr for maintaining the comprehensive list! From http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13721738&postcount=171 5.00 Montesa Cota 349 (6 speed) 25.25 4.97 Fantic 300 25.12 4.41 Yamaha TY250L 22.26 4.38 Yamaha DT175E (6 speed) 22.08 4.00 Honda TL250 (5 speed) 20.20 3.90 Yamaha XT225 (6 speed) 19.69 3.82 Montesa V75 Enduro (5 speed) 19.29 3.80 Hercules 250 (7 speed) 19.19 3.78 Honda CRF230L (6 speed) 19.12 (current widest ratio dual sport) 3.75 Suzuki DR125 (6 speed) 18.95 3.74 Can-Am 175 ASE 18.85 3.69 Montesa Enduro 360H (6 speed) 18.63 3.63 Kawasaki Sherpa 250 (6 speed) 18.30 3.54 Husqvarna 500XC 17.89 3.53 Suzuki RS175Z 17.85 3.53 Husqvarna 400WR 1984 17.82 3.53 Honda XR200R (6 speed) 17.81 3.51 Honda XR250R (6 speed) 17.69 3.47 Kawasaki KE125A5 (6 speed) 17.49 3.46 Yamaha XT250 2008 (5 speed) 17.50 3.45 Yamaha TW200 (5 speed) 17.43 3.45 Suzuki PE175D (6 speed) 17.42 3.40 Husqvarna TE610 (6 speed) 17.16 3.40 Honda XR200R 1984 17.16 3.36 Yamaha WR250R/WR250X (6-speed) 16.99 3.32 Kawasaki KLR250 (6 speed) 16.76 3.29 Yamaha Tenere (5 speed) 16.61 3.27 BMW G650X (5 speed) 16.54 3.25 Pegaso 650 (5 speed) 16.41 3.19 Husqvarna 175XC 16.10 3.18 Kawasaki KDX200 (6 speed) 16.08 3.18 KTM 530 E/XC-R (6 speed) 16.07 3.18 Husaberg FE650E (6 speed) 16.07 3.18 Honda XR650L (5 speed) 16.07 3.15 Kawasaki KLX250 (6 speed) 15.91 3.14 Yamaha IT200 (6 speed) 15.88 3.14 Honda XR350R (6 speed) 15.86 3.13 BMW F650GS (5 speed) 15.79 3.06 KTM 640 Adventure (5 speed) 15.44 3.04 KTM 950 (6 speed) 15.37 3.03 Yamaha XT500G (5 speed) 15.29 3.03 Suzuki DR350 (6 speed) 15.28 3.01 KTM 520 E/XC (6 speed) 15.16 2.93 Suzuki DR650 (5 speed) 14.77 2.88 Yamaha WR450 (5 speed) 14.52 2.88 KTM 690 (6 speed) 14.51 2.86 Kawasaki KLR650, KLX650 (5 speed) 14.42 2.82 Honda XR400 (5 speed) 14.27 2.80 BMW G450X (5 speed) 14.10 2.68 Kawasaki KLX450R (5 speed) 13.51 2.66 Honda XR650R (5 speed) 13.43 2.65 Suzuki DRZ400 (5 speed) 13.36 2.47 Aprilia RXV 550 (5 speed) 12.46 2.45 Husqvarna TE250 (6 speed) 12.40 2.21 Honda CR500R (5 speed) 11.17
  7. I had my '70 triple on a MX track a couple of times but the Mach III's suspension wasn't really up to the task.
  8. Most know this but not everybody. The 6-speed in the 690 has a narrower range than your 5-speed 400 LC4. It's almost like not using 5th gear on your 400. That's probably the worst design feature with the bike. The Husky TE 630, on the other hand, has a great gearbox and costs $1,000 less.
  9. I'm sure the TE 449/511 will be a great, even perfect, bike for some. I expect (even without riding it) that it will have good power and handling. Husky's difficulty in selling them in large numbers, assuming that is a goal, is apparent narrow focus of the product. It specs out like an enduro race bike but not everybody that might be in the market races. If it were the only show in town I'm sure it would be a success. However, there is that orange European company that also produces fine enduro race bikes at competitive prices. Company orange has a larger dealer network and is well supported by aftermarket suppliers so that owners can tailor their EXC to their use. If you like it the way KTM made it fine. You can leave it as-is, but you can also throw on a big tank, high capacity DC stator, cooling fan, oil cooler, HID lighting, GiantLoop, etc. and explore Baja. You can turn an EXC into whatever you like from race winner to trail bike to dirty-side adventure tourer. It just seems that Husky did not build in the same level of versatility with the design on the TE 449/511. I could be totally off base with the comparison of the TE 449/511 to the 450/530 EXC because I haven't seen anything that indicates the TE will be street legal yet.
  10. I hope you're right but I'm wondering if you gear it for the Gifford Pinchot or Wenatchee NF where you'd end up on the top end. To put things into perspective, the TE449/511 will have a gear range about the same as the 2011 TE 250/310 and just a wee bit wider than a G450X with a broken 5th gear or a a EXC with broken 5th and 6th gears.
  11. This may not work out the way you planned. If you take a quick look at the specifications you'll find the six-speed 2011 TE449/511 has a significantly narrower range than the five-speed G450X. This isn't going to be a great DS tool.
  12. William1, I tried to follow your method but did not have great luck. Every time I ran the bike with the inlet covered by a third it ran slower no matter what MJ installed. When I left the side cover off it ran slower with different main jets. So, I tried something else. I found a straight stretch of road with an uphill grade of about 5%. I figured out a distance that allowed me to start in 4th gear at 50 MPH (~5,000 RPM, max torque) and accelerate to 80 MPH (~7,500 RPM, max HP) full throttle in about 13 seconds. I started at 50 +/- 0.5 MPH and recorded the terminal speed with a GPS (max speed) at the end for three runs. I then calculated an average max speed. I went through this using a range of main jets from 150 to 157.5. Even though the difference between the slowest average and highest average with the different main jets was only about 1 MPH (80.17 MPH vs 81.20 MPH), the 155 MJ consistantly recorded the best average. Here are my results: 150=80.17 MPH, 152.5=80.25 MPH, 155=81.20 MPH, and 157.5=80.57 MPH. I ran through the whole bit a second day with similar results. I assume the best A/F mixture = most power = highest terminal speed. Anything wrong with my methodology?
  13. The KTM 640 LC4s have a little different "standard" airbox modification than most. After opening up the exhaust flow from stock, the standard fix is a vented side access panel (KTM even sells a screened replacement side panel) and leave the snorkel in place. You just have to be a little more careful with water crossings. I don't have a clue why this is the best solution for this particular bike but I'm sure there is a good reason. The nice thing about the standard KTM airbox mod combined with this method of selecting a main jet is that one can quickly take off the screened side cover for more flow and cover the screen for less flow and never have to get under the seat. Thanks for all the help. I'm looking forward to giving it a try.
  14. Alright, we now have a #7. This sounds the easiest and best so far without investing in instrumentation. Just to make sure, I'll restate it the way I understand it to see if I’ve got it right. It is all based on this theory. Removing the airbox door (or snorkel?) will result in a leaner air/fuel mixture at high RPM and WOT. Restricting the airbox with tape will result in a richer air/fuel mixture at high RPM and WOT. So when Goldilocks takes her warmed up thumper out on a deserted road, gets into fourth or fifth gear at high RPM, and cracks the throttle wide open, this is what she finds: The original main jet is too large (rich at WOT): Testing with the airbox door off will lean the air/fuel mixture closer to ideal and the bike will run better than with the airbox door on. Reduce main jet size and retest. The original main jet is too small (lean at WOT): Testing with the airbox door off will lean the air/fuel mixture even more and the bike will run worse than with the airbox door on. Testing with the airbox opening restricted will richen air/fuel mixture closure to ideal and the bike will run better than non-restricted. Increase main jet size and retest. The original main jet is just right (ideal air/fuel mix at WOT): Testing with the airbox door off will lean the air/fuel mixture from ideal and the bike will run worse than with the airbox door on. Testing with the airbox opening restricted will richen the air/fuel mixture from ideal and the bike will run worse than non-restricted. Main jet size is correct. Now go find the ideal jet needle position and read the sticky on confirming your pilot circuit.
  15. After a few years of going stock I'm venturing into the world of typical mods with my 2000 KTM LC4E and its Mikuni 40 BST CV carb. I've read various threads and searched here at ThumperTalk, ADVRider, and KTMTalk, followed a bunch of external links and still have some questions when it comes to selecting and setting jets for the big circuit. I'm not looking for advice on what to choose (I've read enough to have a good starting place) but how to choose. There seems to be at least six methods used to find the right main jet and set the jet needle: 1) There is the new plug, warm bike, full throttle run, cut the engine and pull the clutch and stop, and read the plug (or is it tea leaves?) method; 2) Mikuni's warm bike, full throttle, roll-off an 1/8th method; 3) The cold engine/warm engine, which pulls harder comparison method; 4) Add an oxygen sensor (wide, not narrow range) to the header and use a gauge while riding; 5) Take it to a shop with a dyno and exhaust analyzer and have them do it for you; and 6) Ask an expert and do what they recommend. I've now got a full selection of MJs handy and almost have the bike back together after doing the slide drill, air box cover mod, jet needle drop a position, 47.5 pilot, SXC "sparky" silencer, and "S" bend pipe replacing the pre-silencer. So, when I get the bike back in one piece and install the main jet recommended by most LC4/BST experts, how do I go about knowing which of the main jets I've got in little baggies is the best one for my LC4?