DirtyDad

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About DirtyDad

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    British Columbia
  1. I am in the market for a used 85cc 2 stroke for my son. I am looking at a 2002-2005 model year. What things should I be checking and looking at to determine if a freshly washed and detailed bike is actually a good buy:ride: . I'm looking for the wiggle this, listen for this, do this type advice from those in the know:worthy: Thanks DD
  2. Thanks for the added tip on cleaners. Now my carb can smell like the pine trees it rides through...
  3. I have a streeted 05 E model I am quite happy with. That said, I feel I could get a great deal more power from it. The spark arrestor had been drilled by the previous owner, but that was it. I successfully cleaned the jets on a basic Yamaha TTR125 bike this weekend, but see that the DRZ carb has more stuff hanging off it and looks more complex. (scarry) I hear about the RS2 or RS3 pipe upgrades but don't know if these are more applicable to the s or sm models. What would you suggest I do that doesn't involve engine work such as cams etc.
  4. Thanks Overdrive.. I had a good laugh about it with some riding friends today as well. I will get a can of cleaner and will be ordering the new jets next week. (read about them in the sticky) I did the washer/exhaust last night, and take it that you must do the new jets AND the airbox mod, not just one. I can't wait to see her get it above 2nd gear one day, but no rush for now. Cheers.
  5. OK, it started on the second crank of the e-start button after doing some carb cleaning. Pulled the tank for easier access to the carb, removed the carb and drained excess fuel per the TTR-125 mod sticky, removed the float bowl very carefully, and then removed both the pilot and main jets. I held them up to the light, and the tiny holes were a bit clogged. When I blew them out with compressed air, I could see a big difference. No carb cleaner (what should I use next time) on hand so I just blew out the other orifices I could see, re-installed the jets, and then put it all together again. I could now see what is called varnish from the old gas (6-7 weeks only) in the carb, and will have it properly cleaned down the road. I started it up, it ran better than before, I sat on the frame with no seat installed, went for a rip on the road and it bogged on me when I hit the throttle. I thought this is the norm for my mechanical skills and I will have to take it to the mechanic for repair. I sat up on the pegs, and it came back to life when I cranked it. My butt was plugging the air intake snorkel... This is an easy fix, and all you need to do is make sure you are slow with removing the float bowl, and don't bust off the floats. This site just saved me another $150 and taught me how to do it myself. D.
  6. Thanks, I figured that was going to be the last resort. I have the larger maintanence manual, and have been reading the carb section. I have also been looking at the jetting mod pictures, and have a good idea of how to get at it. I will give it a go this afternoon. D
  7. My daughters 05 TTR-125 won't start after sitting for about 6 weeks. It has about 20 hours on the bike and looks like it rolled out of the showroom. I ran the battery dead trying over a period, recharged it and tried a few more times. Choke on and no throttle, choke on WOT (smelled gas after that one), choke off WOT, nothing gets it to fire. Checked the plug for spark (had one), The bike ran fine last time it was used. What should I try next. I don't want to have to take it to the stealership withoutdoing everything I can first. Thanks D
  8. Wow, did it ever. It turned into a long read, notes on a pad, a bunch of printed pages, and a project for my day off tomorrow. All I need is someone to measure my race sag when sitting on my 05 400e. That's what neighbors are for. Thanks
  9. Turns out there were possible problems with the incoming mail to trailtech when I was corresponding. Yes, I probably should have picked up the phone and just called them. They are of course alive and well, and willing to help. I received a quick response from Trailtech today, and have a resolution. Great service from Jeff and Chris, and I think the options on this model make it a great choice. See you on the trails, The Dirtydad
  10. In January I e-mailed trail tech about a vapour speedo temperature sensor for a DRZ. I had an emmediate response from someone named Jeff, advising that a solution would be sent to me and to provide my shipping address and PH#. I replied emmediately with my contact info and didn't receive a reply, but had a positive feeling that this quick response was indicative of a company that was there to support their customers and would follow through. -3 weeks later (Early Feb) and no solution arrives, but the web site is still up. I e-mail trailtech support again and receive no reply. -Early March arrives and I again e-mail Trailtech support asking if they are still in business (I confirmed the support e-mail address I was relying too) and again did not receive any kind of a response. -I have just tried again and have questions as to whether or not trailtech supports Canadian customers:excuseme: (correspondence stopped once my Canadian address was sent), and if anyone know if Trailtech is out of business or not. Thanks Dirtydad
  11. Thanks for the responses. It looks like I will have to ponder doing the re-wire. The stock wires are pretty thin. The looks of this light are great, and returning it is not an option. Thanks for the help. DirtyDad
  12. I just installed a Acerbis Cyclops headlite with the diode option listed in the common task thread at the top of the DRZ forum. 2005 DRZ 400e with no apparent battery issues. When the low beam (larger ovular light) is on, it is bright and illuminates well. When the high beam is switched on (both lights illuminate with diode option) the intensity of the larger light drops. I tested the wiring otions, and both lights are more intense running solo, but when run together, with the diode option, are both dimmer. Obviously a voltage hit to the system. Is this option putting too much load on the system to run efficiently, as well as maintain a 12+v charge in the battery. I may switch back to the stock install option as the dual light option was not much better than the solo larger light as the high beam. Could this be a problem that would be solved by the Free power option listed in the Common tasks thread. Snow on the ground, so it won't make much of a difference in the short term ;>) DirtyDad:canada:
  13. After a few more rides, I am pleased with the JB weld magnet install, and performance of the vapour itself. Admittedly a disk bolt magnet alignment would be more permanent. I figures I didn't need the billet protector, but after seeing the pedal bicycle stock mount (unit moves around when buttons pushed), and how nice JBoat's billet protector looks I have changed my mind and will be ordering. I am glad I held off on the rad hose install of the temp sensor. The M6 bleed screw install looks to be much easier. Overall, a **** out of 5 stars review. A more detailed install manual for the variations in bike models, a more stable stock mount system, and the option for the M6 rad top temp sensor is all that is needed for a ***** out of 5 DirtyDad
  14. Sorry, I see I need to learn how to use the smilies.
  15. Same experience with the exact same bike. I tried to affix the sensor down the caliper, but realized this wouldn't work once I tried to mount the caliper back on the bike. An extra 2 small holes in the caliper..http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/images/smilies/banghead.gif I used the JB weld to mount the magnet as well. Where did you choose to mount the water temp sensor. I left that one for later as I just needed a speedo for the road. Dirty Dad