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About samsymmans

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    TT Member

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  • Location
    New Zealand
  • Interests
    Motocross, Keeping fit
  1. samsymmans

    2011 rmz 450

    $12,000 nzd = $8,385 usd
  2. I have been having problems shifting gears on my 2008 RM 250. When coming out of corners and shifting up (probably into 2nd or 3rd gear) it grinds and finds false neutrals. I have pulled it apart, but am having trouble determining what is causing the problem. There is visible wear/damage to some of the dogs, but I have seen worse ones that don't cause problems before. The selector forks could also be causing the problem. What are the signs of damage/wear on these? The contact surfaces at the ends of these (which are "thicker") appear to be quite worn down, but I do not know how thick they are meant to be. There is also some evidence of rubbing on other parts of the forks from the tumbler. I know this should be in the Suzuki 2stroke forum, but it does not get much traffic, and gearboxes are pretty similar on all bikes anyway.
  3. While putting the motor back together on my 2005 KX250F after fixing the gearbox and doing a top end, I came across a dowel on the bench and I couldn't figure out where it had come from. Because the motor was almost back together I just thought it will be alright, and didn't worry about it. When I started it up it ran briefly and stopped. When I took the "rocker cover" off to see what was wrong I found that one of the cams had tightened up. It took us a while to work out that the dowel was from under one of the cam covers, and it had shifted. Anyway, the head must have swollen, and to get the cam to free up, rather than buy a new head, we used emery paper on it, and to my surprise it worked and never gave any further trouble. Another time on the same bike I got the timing a tooth out, and the bike still ran well, but was very hard to start. Trying to figure out what the problem was, I took the head off and saw that there was a shiny clean circle on top of the piston in the carbon where the valve had been hitting it. The valve didn't appear to be damaged, so I just put the timing right and still ran as good as ever. That was my first 4 stroke and I learnt a lot working on it. I have since gone back to two strokes (RM125 and now an RM250) but plan to get another 4 stroke next year.
  4. Yeah that is annoying. The best way I have found to fix it is to periodically put a bit of grease where the lever contacts the shaft coming out of the master cylinder. If you take the lever off and push the shaft with your finger you will find it is smooth, but if you push it on an angle it will gerk. This is what is happening effectively, as the lever cannot slip along the end of the shaft as it comes in. Spraying WD-40 down there tends to wreck the seals I have found, and doesn't solve the problem anyway.
  5. Does anyone know what (if anything) is different about the handlebar clamps on KTM's? I like the standard bar bend and was thinking of getting some for my Suzuki, but on the Renthal website it says they are for KTM OEM clamps only.
  6. I just pulled the worn out sole inserts off my alpinestar tech8's and have found that the new ones I bought to replace them are wider (they overhang a bit). Is this normal (i.e. are they designed to be trimmed) or has the shop sent me the wrong size (the numbers on the new and old ones are the same)? Does anyone else change them themselves or is taking them to a footwear repair shop the done thing? Thanks.
  7. Does anyone know the standard clicker settings (front/rear rebound and compression and rear high speed compression) for an 08 RM250? I know these are normally in the manual but I don't have one. Also, what is the recommended sag for these bikes? If anyone could suggest some settings I would be stoked too. Thanks.
  8. I have a 2008 RM250 with stock suspension (but recently serviced) and am having trouble getting it to handle well. I am 19 years old, 5'11'' tall and weigh 75kg (165lbs). I mainly ride motocross and have been doing so for quite a few years now (since I was 10), so I wouldn't say I'm slow, but am not exactly Carmichael either. In the past I have always just run stock suspension, and tuned it with the clickers, and my bikes have always handled pretty well. My last bike was a 2007 RM125 and the suspension was near perfect. Anyway, I recently set the sag to 100mm (from about 85mm I think) and since then have had handling problems. Lately I have been adjusting the clickers a lot while practicing, trying to sort it out, but have just been getting frustrated with it, as I can't seem to find good settings. I feel I have got the shock pretty sorted now but the forks aren't so good. It is mainly on the braking bumps where it is giving me problems- it sort of shudders. The problems I was having with the rear end mainly related to it bouncing from side to side on acceleration bumps, but have not been able to find any of these to test it on lately. If anyone could suggest some clicker settings (for forks and shock) or sag measurements I could try, I would greatly appreciate it. I haven't got a whole lot of money to spend on it right now, and have a big race this weekend so haven't got much time either.
  9. samsymmans

    Removing a ding in a platinum pipe

    Hey, thanks for that. I will seriously look into it.
  10. I swapped my 07 RM125 for an 08 RM250 a few days ago. The 250 came with a procircuit platinum expansion chamber, but it has a big ding in it. If I were to have it blown out, would heating it with a gas torch take the platinum coating off? If so, could I just heat the whole thing so it would look like a works pipe?
  11. samsymmans

    Radiator shroud bolt problems

    I have just tried to take the radiator shrouds of my 2007 RM125. The left one came off sweet, but on the right hand side, the two bolts which go into the set nuts in the petrol tank would not come out because the nuts were turning in the tank. I remember having this problem on my RM85 and also on my Dad's RM250, which both have the same shrouds. Want I want to know is if anyone else has had this problem, and how they got the bolts out. Thanks
  12. samsymmans

    1989 rm80

    The bike looks tidy enough, but you would want to be careful buying a 17 year old bike. In saying that, I was given a 1985 RM80 that I raced for 1 year in 2000, and it was alright.
  13. samsymmans

    Year for the Color Change for RM's?

    Na bud, it was 2001. I had one too. But I think they may have slightly changed the shade a few times since then, but not to the same extent as the 2000-2001 change.
  14. samsymmans

    On Da Way!!!!!

    You reckon? To run new bikes in all I do is get it hot (riding reasonably slowly) and then let it cool down 3 times. I do that after engine work as well (new crank, pistons etc). I have never had a bike blow up either (except for my RM85, but that was a year and no piston changes later). Mind you, with the exception of one they have all been two strokes. Back onto the topic, that's good news. Let us know what it's like. Can't wait untill mine arrives.